Fc starting/idle issues

[sheprx7]

hi guys, first post so take it easy :Giggle.  recently bought an \'89 egi n/a. now the problems.. it will start from cold perfectly but once its driven somewhere and parked up it refuses to start! also the car has a rough idle and what feels like a slight misfire but only at idle as it drives fine.(maybe a little jerky at very low rpms) now ive read a few threads on here and have tried fiddling with the idle screw and have read about the TPS possibly causing the problem? recently had to fit a new distributor as the bearing in the old one was shot.(not sure if this bares any significance) cheers for any help fellas.

[richrx]

it could be loads a things, i had a similar idle problems, but basicly get a list of things and work through them. im not sure what the n/a and the turbo have in common, but heres a few things

check the spark plugs, clean or dirty
check for a strong spark
try clamping the fuel feed and return lines see if this smooths out the idle(too rich/lean)
bac vavle(is it getting power, and operating.
tps sensor, check the resistance
check air flow meter

i spent days looking for the problem with my turbo, and it was the intake manifold, basicly the engine was eating it :o


should keep you busy for a while

rik

[sheprx7]

cheers rik, where abouts is the throttle position sensor located?

[richrx]

on the turbo 2 model its on the throttle body on the top of the engine, just behind the altenator. it should be obvious on the n/a


looks like this

http://www.fujitaengineeringusa.com/fc3s/15.jpg

rik

[sheprx7]

right the car will start from cold on the button and will also start fine if the car is warm and turned off and imeadiatley started again but will still refuse to start if left for an hour or so. could this be due to the ignition timing being slightly out?

[grinder]

well its a good sign that it starts from hot or cold

the hour or so bit - could be a leaking injector - a simple way to solve this is to put a fuel cut off switch and when you leave the car - just flick the fuel pump off

someone has recently started a topic about it - might be worth just looking thru the 2nd gen section

[TiddlesRX7]

Would that stop a leaky injector though Stu? Surely it would still leak what was left in the line? Or is that not enough to flood the engine?

[grinder]

hummmmmmm im not 100% sure .. BUT what i used to do was

1 - park the car up - still idling
2 - flick the fuel cut off switch
3 - wait for the revs to flickers ( means that you are draining the lines )
4 - turn the car off
5 - when you come to start the car , turn it ON but dont start it
6 - the fuel pump will prime the lines
7 - then start it

i used this method on the TII - but i didnt have the switch - the immobilser cut the fuel pump - so i used to pull that whilst it was running - same theory - just a different method

[sheprx7]

hummmmmmm im not 100% sure .. BUT what i used to do was
 
1 - park the car up - still idling
2 - flick the fuel cut off switch
3 - wait for the revs to flickers ( means that you are draining the lines )
4 - turn the car off
5 - when you come to start the car , turn it ON but dont start it
6 - the fuel pump will prime the lines
7 - then start it
 
although i didnt use this method - i used to carry locking pliers in the glove box , if it would start - i would clamp the fuel line in the engine bay and start it ( only uses the fuel it has ) - once it fires - jump out the car and remove pliers
 
the AA man showed me the trick as i had flooded it and had no idea what to do ( and it was about 1:30 in the morning in a pub car park !! )

 
id rather just fix it! :rollin

[grinder]

well there is always that - but i would try the above - just as its a cheaper option ( and easier than replacing the injector 0 rings or the actual injectors )

i have edited my above post so that it makes a bit more sense ( but your quote shows the orig message anyways )

[pdtaylor18]

Tricky one this as it does start from cold and hot ok. If it was always starting rough from hot then I might be concerned.
Is this a UK or JDM model?
Think the first thing is to try and eliminate if its electrical ie ignition which includes all the sensors etc or just fuelling of some sort.
Did this do this before the new distributer was fitted? It may be those little deivices on the sides of the distributer,they can be replaced and if I remember right a similar problem was experienced by another member on here. You cant miss them as they have the wires coming out of them. It may well be that when they are hot they are breaking down or even one of your coils? But as others have said before you must check or replace the basics first and then go from there. It will be better for the engine in the long run and at least it will discount a few things.

Remember that if you adjust the idle screw then you must adjust the TPS as well or at least check its still has one lit bulb during the test. (or similarly check the resistance)

[sheprx7]

it only had the starting issues after i replaced the dizzy, also could fuel pressure be a possible issue? as when i open the fuel filler cap it draws in ALOT of air..? cheers for the help guys

[sheprx7]

(its a uk model btw) right got a bit more info(and questions!) had a look at the spark plugs today (these were brand new 3 months ago and have done under 200 miles) they have been carbon fouled, more so on T1 and T2 and i also found a small blob of fuel on T2(could this reinforce the theory of the leaky injector?)
 
 
also as a side question how can i check the tps is working without swapping it for a new one!

[pdtaylor18]

Not being funny but I think you answered your own problem........"only had the starting issues after you replaced the dizzy".
 I think you need to look at that before you delve into anything else. Those electrical contacts on the side of the dizzy are notorious for breaking down and will give you similar problems to what you are experiencing.

[sheprx7]

Not being funny but I think you answered your own problem........"only had the starting issues after you replaced the dizzy".
I think you need to look at that before you delve into anything else. Those electrical contacts on the side of the dizzy are notorious for breaking down and will give you similar problems to what you are experiencing.

 
would you suggest using the contacts from the old dizzy? as i have tried a couple of differnt rotor arms and caps