Fc starting/idle issues

[pdtaylor18]

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56631

read this chap and it might well be whats wrong with yours. I would swop your old contacts over.

[sheprx7]

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56631
 
read this chap and it might well be whats wrong with yours. I would swop your old contacts over.

 
cheers for that pdtaylor, seems he had alot of similar issues. im guessing the dizzy pick ups are the small black boxes  on the side?

[pdtaylor18]

Yes they are and you can change them over in minutes. I think they are interchangeable so can go on either side of the dizzy,change one at a time to see if it makes any difference as then you will know which one was at fault. It will also give you a known good spare for the future.

[sheprx7]

Yes they are and you can change them over in minutes. I think they are interchangeable so can go on either side of the dizzy,change one at a time to see if it makes any difference as then you will know which one was at fault. It will also give you a known good spare for the future.

 
changed these but still no change. also noticed that the unit ive circled in red only works on occasion
 

[pdtaylor18]

Not sure on the EGI\'s but thats only a damper if thats what i think it is and will not play a part in the starting issues. Might be worth trying a swop of the coils,see if the problem will swop from Trailing to Leading, unfortunately in this case its very hard trying to see whats wrong,even ECU\'s can cause this so maybe check down there as well,at least take the plugs off and on again in case its a bad contact. All you can do is iliminate things as you go along. One good reason to have a garage full of spares......just for that occasion.

[sheprx7]

right ive think ive narrowed it down to a fueling problem, possible the fuel pump as it seems to be flooding the engine(when warm) but will start after a few short cranks of the enigine. think i should try installing a fuel cut off switch. where is the fuel pump located on the egi?

[TiddlesRX7]

Its in the fuel tank on the FC. Think the wiring for it is on the inside of the car.

[pdtaylor18]

You can also create a switch from the fuel pump relay but to be honest not much difference,at least going to the rear you can hide all the wires inside the car.
If the pump is working fine at all times then I would say theres nothing wrong with it, maybe more on the controlling side of things. Most pumps either work or they dont, or in some cases they just die when you want the power.
Seems your problem is temp related but at least you are narrowing it down.

[sheprx7]

You can also create a switch from the fuel pump relay but to be honest not much difference,at least going to the rear you can hide all the wires inside the car.
If the pump is working fine at all times then I would say theres nothing wrong with it, maybe more on the controlling side of things. Most pumps either work or they dont, or in some cases they just die when you want the power.
Seems your problem is temp related but at least you are narrowing it down.

yea see this is what i was thinking, my old man suggested a faulty pump but i feel it works or it doesnt.. but its definately a fuel/flooding related problem as when i try to start it when warm it STINKS of fuel :3Confused if i find the fuel hoses i may try clamping them.

[RiceRacerUK]

Im having exactly a very similar problem with mine, it starts on the button from cold every time but not from hot if its been sat a while.
 
It seems that if ive been for a long drive and gotten the engine properly warm then its fine, but if its just a short journey then the problem rears its head.
 
 I find that if i unplug the fuel pump wires from under the drivers side of the dash the engine will always clear itself of excess fuel and start then I quickley plug the pump back in before the engine cuts out and its fine.
 
 I was thinking that maybye the cold start assist was at fault but after reading this thread im now thinking it could be a leaky injector seal. Ill keep you posted as to how i get on as it may help you with your fault.

[pdtaylor18]

Not too sure on this leaky injector bit though as generally once they start to leak they leak all the time. It does not cost much to replace them anyway. Without being the bearer of bad news the only other problem with a car starting from hot ......is a worn engine but there are also other options to iron out first.

[Prof]

A few ideas:
 
1)  PRC valve - this chap cuts vacuum to the Fuel Pressure Regulator for about 30-50 seconds when the car is started warm.  The idea is to increase fuel pressure briefly to stop petrol percolating in the hot fuel rail.  It\'s controlled by the orange solenoid valve.  Normally the FPR sees fuel pressure regulated by the manifold pressure (so vacuum on idle to lower pressure, and on a tubby II, boost to increase fuel pressure).  Not sure if the EGI has this circuit or not - but if you unplug the orange solenoid and just tap on the gas a couple of times until the engine stabilizes when you start then that could be the problem.
 
2) Boost/vac leak - during cold start the throttle plates are open so a small leak won\'t affect starting that much, but when warm the plates are fully shut when you start the car, so a vac leak will easily kill the idle.  Spray a little carb cleaner (carefully :flamed) around the intake pipes and upper to lower inlet manifold join - see if the revs pick up - if they do you\'ve a vac leak.
 
3) Leaky injector - you can cut fuel completely during cranking by pressing the accelerator to the floor when you start the car - this cuts fuel and prevents a leaky injector swamping the engine on start.
 
4) Timing - if the timing is out it can affect the car\'s running and idle, more noticeably the idle when hot, it can be erratic and prone to cutting out.  You can check timing with a timing strobe and the marks on the front pulley.   The first mark to the right hand side should line up with the little needle when the strobe is clamped on either of the leading front plug wire.
 
5) Dirty fuel filter / dirty air filter - both can affact running / idle and acceleration and the effect will be more pronounced on warm start.
 
6) Plugs - never hurts to give them a good clean and possibly swap in another set - don\'t use a brass brush to clean them !
 
If I think of anything else I\'ll post it up.

[sheprx7]

cheers for that prof, can you cut the fuel by flooring the accelerator before cranking? then let off when(if) it fires

[Prof]

Works when deflooding too, if it\'s not too badly flooded - as the fuel is cut and the throttle plates are wide open pushing all the fumes/air mix out of the exhaust - best to remove EGI fuse when doing this though
 
But yes, if you release the throttle when it fires up you\'re good to go - although it may need \'catching\' once or twice before it stabilizes.

[sheprx7]

right just been trying it while its warm, ive found that if i give it 3 0r 4 short cranks without it firing on the 4th or 5th try it will fire with very low revs so i catch it with the accelerator