Westory Progress.

[Mr Spiller]

I had a similar issue with fuel on my RX8


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[boosted]

put the fuel pressure gauge back on the rollbar for a check? I did notice the gauge was flickering around abit..when we revved to over 5k...but it settled at 4 bar solid...worth ruling out fuel pressure drop high demand.

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[Westory]

U did mention the fuel filter may need a change as a matter of caution when I bought it so I will try that. Would expect to see a code though?
Jon - is it a serviceable unit where I can get a new filter or do I need to by a whole new one as just looked up the price of the one that’s on it   

[boosted]

Sytec..100 micron filter insert not body just unscrews but!!! If fuel pressure fine on gauge no worries...just a winter job.

No codes from fuel system theres no monitors..

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[boosted]

Ive be doing some reading up and some post suggests the ect...Engine coolant sensor can cause limp mode if it tells the pcm (ecu) that the engine is too hot. Very rare that this fails but if the sensor has gone out of range it could be triggering your fault. Your digi dash displays are aftermarket and do not communicate with the pcm...its located on the thermostat tower under the omp you change. Green plastic and brass body.
Worth seeing what its reading when the car is fully warmed up with fan cutting in...it should be same as digi dash or in ball park. If its over reading then suggests out of range....this triggers the fan...if the fan is running continuos suggest the pcm thinks the engine is too hot snd trying to cool. A few pulls and triggers overheat rev cut. Any basic scan tool  can read this real time data.
Maybe this is it.

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[boosted]

Come to think of it...when you first fired up i thought the coolant fan was running...it shouldnt be til warm..it would also explain the long start time as not fuel enriching for cold start....maybe im onto something...
I think you have a spare used ect in those parts i gave you....

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[Westory]

I’ll see what I can do next week with diagnostics as won’t have any time this week with kids and wife being at work 7-7 #daddydaycare #furloghlife 

[boosted]

Fingers crossed...if you fire it up and the rad fans running then onto summit.

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[Westory]

Drove from home in Braunton to Minehead and back today which is around 100 miles. Car didn’t miss a beat, no limp modes even with pushing hard over the hills. Rad fan not on either.
I Then got all the way home and realised I had left my fuel tank cover and the two wing nuts at the petrol station in Minehead so had to get straight in the company car a do the two out round trip all over again to retrieve it  luckily it was still there

[boosted]

Ha ha!  I done that with the petrol cap!! Mmm what that smell!
Did you do any logging? Its been cooler lately....

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[Westory]

Yeah it was very hot on the 1st, I took it out in the afternoon as it was relatively warm here. Unless we get a really hot day like the 1st again it’s going to be hard to get it hot enough to replicate Combe. No data logging yet, was hoping to do this week but the weather looks like rain all week.
I don’t think it was actually overheating in terms of dangerous for the engine but do think something was causing limp due to heat, too much of a coincidence after driving it so far and hard yesterday and it not missing a beat.
What could Be faulty and cause limp due to heat, without actually being too hot? I lost no water, had no pressure leaks from the cooling system, used no oil etc?
Do I just go down the route on track days of having a cooler thermostat and cooler fan switch on track days?
The think that confuses me is that I was only seeing 96 degrees before it was hitting limp. Looking on the web it suggests 95 when the thermostat is full open and fans at full by 101 then maximum temp should be 105?
Something gin causing limp once at 95?
I’m not overly concerned about being too cool with a lower temp thermostat and fan switch as I will be pushing hard but may slow down the point I get limp mode but at the same time there is something, somewhere causing my limp mode prematurely.
I have no miss fire at all, no loss of power just hits limp early. Not sure I want to spend money on another track day, trailer hire etc just to test as will be £250 plus with fuel etc

HELP ggrrrr!!!!

[Jamie R]

Daft one, have you tried changing the engine coolant temperature sensor, it could be up the duff and sending the wrong info ....   


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[boosted]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9t2xw_Gpbg

this vid shows where the ect sensor is...alot easier on westy as half that stuff in way not there.  May as well change thermostat as well in case sticking shut causing block to get hot and ect to register that as digi dash never gonna show you that.

but scan tool it first to see what readings as waste of time and effort if not the problem.

[Westory]

Hi all, sorry for the absence, been a bit busy with not working, provisionally setting up my own business and kids lol.

Literally haven't even touched the Westy since last time i post, dont think the monsoon season helped throughout july

So going to get cracking over the next week or so if the weather is kind to me.

I have a bad  rumble/knock/metal slapping noise from the rear. Looked into what could be wrong but I've decided to rebuild the whole rear axel. New rs2000 shafts, full diff rebuild, lsd service and going to sort the tick..well had a crack at this tonight.

Going to do it all my self so bought all the gear to rebuild the diff and properly set the backlash and preload. Will wait until I strip it all to check the condition of the tran x. May send it off if it makes economical sense but would rather order the device kit and do it my self.

Tonight I set about stripping the engine down to pull out the SSV, its very dirty. Cleaner it up and got 99% back together before the wife got in the hot tub at 10pm and i could resist packing the car and tools away . Off to local factors tomorrow for some coolant as removed alternator tension bracket, thermostat housing etc to access.

Hoping to get the diff out Sunday on the driveway.

Jon - could I just leave the shocks connected and disconnect the prop to allow me to angke the axel down and remove the diff, without having to remove the whole axel?

Will update more Sunday

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[Westory]

Had a helping hand from my new furlough friend, chavy  thatchers

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