Rotus Project Build

[Jamie R]

So the other day I was tinkering at work with acrylic in the oven.

The first piece got hot, melted off the hook and landed on the over floor so here is mk1 headlight lenses




More garage wall art lol


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[Casey]

Your artwork rendition of the Shard building 

[boosted]

Next time at the beech, part bury it....some fool will dig it up...
Megladome tooth?

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[Jamie R]

Next time at the beech, part bury it....some fool will dig it up...
Megladome tooth?

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Lol yeah summat like that




It definitely doesn’t fit


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[Jamie R]

As this rack is for the Rotus ill do a little mini thread in here.

Clives write up on page 100 of his RX8 race car thread is very accurate. For the complete novice ( ME !) I feel a picture tells a thousand words, so will go into a bit more detail in case anyone wants simliar.

1, One faulty steering rack, which will be cannibalised.

2, Remove the track rod ends, the locking nuts, cut the bands holding on the boots/gaiters. There is a locking washer holding the nuts for the tack rods in place. Tap the bent over ears of the washer away from the locking nut. Undo the nut with a suitable spanner, or like me a pair of mole grips. Put track rods to one side............. keep all parts nearside and offside separate, just in case.

3,Undo the 4 x M8 bolts that hold the outer motor case and pull, prise, swear, tap it away from the rack, it will be tight, theres 2 o-rings, 1 each end, and magnets inside which could hold it in place. Remove the brushes and all plastic crap in the away, be brutal you dont need it. Undo the 2 screws connecting the wiring connector (black) on the outer part of the case and remove.

4, You need to be brutal, but careful. Run an angle grinder with cutting disc through the windings, its messy, theres a resin encasing it all, until you reach the inner steel sleeve of the windings. This is where you need to be careful as you need to cut it, but not too far or youll damage the steel sleeve underneath. Knowing what i know now, run a line down the windings and another 180 degrees on the other side, the steel sleeve will come away from the steel sleeve of the rack in 2 halves. Youll need chisels, hammers, coffee, colourful language, oh and dont forget eye protection please.

5, There are 6 large magnets inside the outer motor case, held in place by a thin wall steel housing and plastic holder. I was brutal here and just drove a wood chisel down inside the outer casing, Drive it down in about 3 places, break the magnets up and withdraw the hole magnet housing, be careful not to puncture the out motor case. Make sure you get rid of all small fragments of magnets. Should look like pic 5.

6, If you spin the sleeve that the windings used to sit on you notice the rack moves as well as the quill shaft (what the steering column connects to). Its this action that we want to negate. On the near side of the rack youll see a round plate with 4 holes ( bearing retainer), remove the circlip, i used a centre punch to tap the round retainer, in an anti clockwise direction. Wind out fully and put to one side.
Keep spinning the case that the windings used to sit on from lock to lock and the bearing housing will slide out, theres ball bearings everywhere. I pity the person who has to install these. Throw the lot away.

7, once done youll see the worm thread, if you spin the case that the windings sat on, it should just spin and the rack doesnt travel from lock to lock.

8, Clive used brass for this next stage, but I didnt have any that diameter, so I used a piece of nylon to make a new sleeve. You need a piece 43mm O.D, 27mm I.D. and 40mm long. Put a 45 degree chamfer on each end.

9, Push your new sleeve where the bearing used to be, wind the bearing retainer back in, (use the centre punch and a hammer to tighten it) re fit the circlip.

10, Remove the outer dust cover from the quill shaft. Undo the 3 x M6 bolts which hold down the torque sensor, prize it up and off the shaft.
The beige plastic piece seems like a shaft encoder of sorts, but i didnt like the colour so i thwacked it off with a chisel and hammer. Once removed youll see the quill shaft in 2 pieces with some dowells. I wanted to be nosey and look inside, but couldnt get it apart, oh well next stage.

4 more steps on the next post

[Jamie R]

11,  TIG it, MIG it, dun matter, join it together, dont get it too hot.

12, Started cleaning it all up, wire wheels, degreaser, painted the outer motor shell in zinc primer then black. Youll need to put some silicone sealant in the hole where the black wire connector come from just to prevent water ingress. Bolt the outer casing back onto the rack, grease up the surfaces that have the o-rings, needs a tap home.

13, Refit the torque sensor housing and the outer dust cover.

14, Refit the track rods, tap the ears of the locking washer back into position. Refit the boots/gaiters, holding in place with cable ties/bands and circlips.

Et voila, took me a full day with painting.

[Mr Spiller]

Nice one Jamie


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[Jamie R]

Ya giving it a go ? Lol


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[Mr Spiller]

Ya giving it a go ? Lol


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Nah waiting for admin to send me your address so I can send mine to you lol


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[Jamie R]

Haha haha.

It’s easy, for a man of your calibre !!

Just don’t get “dynamic” in the process lol


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[Mr Spiller]

Haha haha.

It’s easy, for a man of your calibre !!

Just don’t get “dynamic” in the process lol


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Ha ha
T*** lol


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[Jamie R]

Tool?
Tank
Tins
Tell
Toby

Wait I got this


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[Mr Spiller]

Tool?
Tank
Tins
Tell
Toby

Wait I got this


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I the words of Roald  Dahl
Twit


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[Jamie R]

Been called a damn sight worse lol


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[Jamie R]

So I’ve ran out of filler for almost a week now. Which gives me chance to work on the jobs I need to do but keep putting off coz I’d rather get the bodywork f***** finished.

Hence, fixing the steering on the 8 (mr tracking man said disconnect the column again and turn the wheel to centralise or you’ll have more lock on one side that the other, so that might be today )

And fiddling around with manual racks yesterday

So today’s job is making decent jacking points. The steel hole circled is a tube welded to a steel crossmember in the grp sills.

The body is sandwiched between the crossmember and the roll cage, so this seems a strong enough area. 

Problem one, I intend on fitting side skirts which will cover up the 4 holes, 2 on each crossmember.

The question is, do I make little adaptors that screw into each one, and hang lower than the sill or modify a lightweight scissor hack that stays in the car hmmmm

Now I wish I had more ground clearance. Or some pneumatic air rams like on race cars.

Pffft


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