BOOSTED FD BUILD.

[boosted]

Oil cooler lines.?

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[re japi]

Sorry if I woke you up
This black thing under that regulator...


Lähetetty minun E2303 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[boosted]

Didnt wake me i always get up early after last night shift...that i dont know mate....looks like oil cooler line connection to me.

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[Bobfish]

If its any consolation pretty much everything was new.  Shaft and end plates re used but all seals (Including oil) new.  Bearings etc were all in spec, but replaced the torrington anyway.

It had new housings too. Just keep an eye on it, I wouldn't worry - its always pulled strongly! I need to get a ride in it soon

[boosted]

Lol bloody rotary paranoia ! Like i said i was expecting high 7s....it has no low comp syptoms atall...but the fact new housings etc i dont wanna wreck em...borrowing my mates piston checker for weekend to see what it gets compared to rotary tester...

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[Smiffers]

that pipe is the heater return hose...

[Smiffers]

And the one on top of the rear plate is the throttle body water supply on the standard car.  The oil cooler is on a banjo joint to the oil filter pedestal.

[Smiffers]

How many miles is on the new engine build?

[boosted]

18 k approx but a good few years...picked up my piston compression tester today fun time tomoz.

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[Smiffers]

Was it mainly tracked?  18k of track miles is a long way.

You will find some interesting things with the piston tester and the numbers will not compare with the mazda comp test.  Here is what I do to get representative health with a piston checker.

Remove the valve from the end of the tester, hold down the release  button, crank with throttle fully open...  You should see three repeated peaks of similar magnitude between 30-40psi on the gauge.  This will tell you nothing more than all the combustion faces/seals are in similar condition.  If you have 2 peaks that are lower then you have an apex seal or corner seal issue, if you see 1 lower then side seals would be suspect...

Then release the button so the gauge holds pressure and run the same cranking test for around 5 seconds.  You will get a number on the gauge between 90 - 125 psi...  My rule of thumb, below 90psi time for a refresh of the engine, 90-100 well worn but serviceable, 100+ nothing to worry about.  125 - god has built the engine.

Remember the numbers will give you nothing to compare to the mazda results...  The mazda compression test measure the peak chamber pressure using a digital transducer and throws away all the other results, when you have an old analog gauge with a pipe on it the pressure read is an average over the positive pressure cycle of the stroke, you also have increased the size of the combustion chamber but connecting a pipe, this further lowers the compression ratio for the engine.

[boosted]

Cheers mate...will post findings later.

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[boosted]

80 front and 90 rear....nice even bounces 40plus psi both.
Cranking is slow however about 220 rpm.
Put all back together and fired up in a milisecond hot....

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[Dax]

Forget the Science if it works it works, drive and enjoy lol
Think that should be the saying all Rotary guys live by lol

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[boosted]

Well got an oil change today in anticipation of trackday at Combe on the Sat 12th November. Underbody check all seems ok should be as most new this year....made a bit of a mess as forgot about the penny washer. 

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[boosted]

Alas in the colt tomoz for trackday...despite best efforts the boost is all over the place .....cold weather?...and a pool of oil on floor....i think i own Christine 2 and Christine 3.


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