FDrift taxi 2013

Started by rx7ali, December 02, 2012, 07:09:35 PM

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rx7ali

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;847328Just get a couple of silicone bends and move it too above the IC or to the side of it

My DIY scoop bonnet makes it tight for space above the IC.. not sure there\'s any space to be honest.

skybusr34

Quote from: rx7ali;847135LoL... trust me cleaning is the last thing i want to be doing. Specialy as it\'s likely to be just getting filled with tyre crap and spilt PS fluid again all year. But while its all apart and i dont have the dosh to complete everything in one go it seems like the right thing to do.
 
Plus more likely to attract sponsors with a tidy car :wave
 
I\'ll post up full details of the kitt on Saturday after collecting :King
 
Yay. lots of smileys to chose from!!
 
:Party:burnout:rollin:cheers:WaveBye

 I\'m up for a slice of more spencer ship mate.. Core renewables ftw :Ladys-man
if i had 8 hour to cut down a tree. i`d spend 6 sharpening the axe

rx7ali

Quote from: skybusr34;847354I\'m up for a slice of more spencer ship mate.. Core renewables ftw :Ladys-man

Sounds good buddy!!!

An alteration to the logo to make it stand out more i think is in order :Thumbsup!

skybusr34

if i had 8 hour to cut down a tree. i`d spend 6 sharpening the axe

rx7ali

So I\'ve discovered that the best tool for removing sound deadening is actually winter! Forget a blow torch or freeze it spray. Just wait untill the weather drops to bellow zero, take a rubber mallet and smash the crap out of it, then using a nylon / plastic trim tool pry the sound deadening away from the shell in as few pieces as possible :D







I\'m trying to keep it all together to weigh it, so far it seems like alot of effort for not alot of weight to be completely honest. But every little helps I guess :rolleyes:





So instead im polishing.. or rather trying to :o

80 grit to get rid of most of the cast marks:



Then some 400, then 800 then the polishing wheel attached to a drill:







I also had the desire to clean up and polish my new T04R ...



80 grit to clear off cast marks




Loads more to do on it, but gives you an idea:





Have to decide on best way to plumb this in. Should be an improvement on last years can of strong bow




SOOO many little bits and pieces to buy. Starting to feel like this is going take a while to get back together :(

Need to aquire:

  • OMP blanking plate
  • Cold start blanking plate
  • Exhaust heat wrap
  • Heat shield (for turbo)
  • Various hose & clips
  • 044 connection kitt
  • Load of Premix (anyone sugest a brand??)
  • Brake Fuild
  • Stuff i can\'t remember???!?!?!?

Grant Monkhouse

If you want cheap premix for a lot of product then STHIL premix is prety good, I used it on my fd at 125-1. Only downside is that it is a bit smokey

rx7ali

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;848153If you want cheap premix for a lot of product then STHIL premix is prety good, I used it on my fd at 125-1. Only downside is that it is a bit smokey

So about 500ml ish for a full tank?

I don\'t mind smokey massively, cant be any worse than it\'s been already with a blown seal on the rear turbo.

Am i right in thinking some premix smells sweet?

Got a link for where to buy cheap?

Grant Monkhouse

Between 50&60 litres for 500ml. I think I got the STHIL premix off eBay. I have used a lot of different premixes. The ones used by 2strokes scooters/motor bikes are the best ones.

There used to be KB2T made by millers oils but due to some terrorists using one of the Ingrediants for bombs are something they have had to make something else. I think it is called KBRT I think, it\'s not cheap but is great. However I would recommend using some kind of water injection to stop it sticking to the rotors and building up carben which I had a slight problem with previously on an engine, but I was running it in, 3500rpm, limit. You will be red lining it so shouldn\'t have carbon build up.

Grant Monkhouse

Give millers oils a ring and ask for some free stickers for your car, get some advertising going for them then ask for free oil :D


re japi

When we were removing sound deadening from my brothers FB, it was summer and quite hot. That stuff was like damn glue. Made us go grazy. :) But it had to be done, weight is bad. My brother put all the removed sound deadening stuff to plastic bag, its actually many kilos...
Power is nothing without control. Weight is enemy of performance, handling and braking.

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/japi_laukkanen/library/Japi?sort=3&page=1

rx7ali

Quote from: re japi;848173When we were removing sound deadening from my brothers FB, it was summer and quite hot. That stuff was like damn glue. Made us go grazy. :) But it had to be done, weight is bad. My brother put all the removed sound deadening stuff to plastic bag, its actually many kilos...

il be weighing what I\'ve removed to confirm, but there\'s no way is multiple kilos. must be thinner or lesd of it in the fd then.

re japi

Just looked you photo again. I think that it is different stuff in FB. It was like glue and bitume(dont know if that is correct)...
Power is nothing without control. Weight is enemy of performance, handling and braking.

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/japi_laukkanen/library/Japi?sort=3&page=1

rx7ali

Thanks to Danny & Dale @ DM-Motorsports for another donated goody to the 2013 drift project; my OMP blanking kitt :D



Just the job and saved me faffing around with random bolts for the injector plugs :thumbsup:

Also finally picked up my new Fuel rail, injectors and braided lines :thumbsup:


rx7ali

Progress finaly after more bits now available to actualy get on with stuff.

I did some more polishing of the compressor housing... and I\'m guna be honest now (to save getting flamed later).. it really aint great, but i totaly lost patience with it :rolleyes:

So i reassembled the turbo and re did part of the heat wrap on the manifold where it had torn. Then did "final" fit of the turbo:



I also heat wrapped the downpipe



Resistors and connectors for the Bosch 1680 injectors :



Plugs soldered directly to loom to replace OEM plugs, resistors are to be hidden away at the ECU end of the loom.. in theory to prevent anything nasty happening to them:






My oil feel line for the turbo is definatly unuseable as it;s been badly pinched. I have another, but one end is the wrong size, so i need to fine a thread adapter.

Other than that I\'ve got a :censored::censored::censored::censored: load of bits to put back together and lots of little bits missing still.

But it\'s heading to a good place now, hopefully be in a position to book mapping in the not to distant future :eek: