FC Turbo Glowing

[Prof]

might be worth checking the plugs are wired correctly too !
 
Bottom two plugs are the leading plugs - they can connect to either side of the leading coil pack near the battery as both fire together.  The upper two plugs are the trailing plugs - the one nearest the front of the engine must attach to the coil pack connector on the trailing pack (near the bulkhead) that\'s nearest to the front - the back coil feeds the rear rotor.
 
Also, there was a mention it hard larger injectors - chances are it\'s probably the secondaries that are larger, not the primaries and that\'s why the car is smoother and runs ok at lower revs, but stutters when you push it a bit - as that\'s when the secondaries kick in.

[pdtaylor18]

there are three green diagnostic connectors.
6 pin by the leading coil and i dont suppose used by anyone apart from mazda
1 pin by the map sensor, you earth this when you do the timing and idle adjust
3 pin by the solenoid rack and used mainly for the checking of the CAS

They probably do other things as well but thats their main job in life.

[bumpstart]

in s4 cars the initial set coupler is green one pin plug beside the battery,, near leading coil
( you earth it to set the timing  )
in s5 its a two pin plug that you short together
( you bridge it to set the timing,, one side is already to earth )

[bumpstart]

Lum[/left];592103]Thanks for all the tips guys, it\'s not my car but i had a look at it last

nite

.
My initial thoughts were that it is running mega rich, however if that was the case i would expect to get problems with flooding? You can run the car for 30 secs turn it off & it starts straight up on the button every time.
When we had it running it was

relatively

smooth off boost but as soon as you build up any sort of boost it stutters, it\'s not as harsh a stutter as say hitting fuel cut, more like the spark being blown out?
Thinking possibly the leading plugs are not firing properly so gonna check this.

Bumpstart

-
I\'m not sure what map sensor it has on but will check, however there is a small green plug with one wire too it that is not plugged into anything right next to the map sensor?
I knew this wasn\'t right but there is no where obvious for it to go? Is this the modified earth you\'re

referring

too?
Am i right in thinking that standard injectors on an FC is 550\'s all round? What colour are the tops of these?
Thanks for all your help guys

all green plugs are for diagnostics,, like code check, set couple for timing , set couple for continuing fuel pump etc
they normally are not plugged to anything !

the map sensor wiring loom mod is for extra earth for early s4 cars with N318 and n326 map sensors
-- the factory corrected the issue on later cars ,,
 an extra wire added near the loom plug, and off to earth is fairly obvious

 the earthing bug gives some odd signals from the MAP,,
but also contributes to the dreaded staging stutter,,,
 ( is this what your getting?? )

as do the other earth within the engine harness
,, its very important with stock ECFU you check that all the various earths are happy

-----------------

standard injectors for turbos come as three distinct types
- square plug,, hi and low ohming types,, and oval plug, hi ohming

rotary top feed injector numbers -

year....motor/ car ...apspiration...ohms...plug-type...notch...size.. colour...number
83- 87 12A T low square centre 660 cc dark blue 195500-0610
83-87 13B HB Cosmo NT low square centre 690 cc green / blue 195500-0830.
84-85 13B GSL-SE NT low square center 700 cc orange 195500-0900
86-87 13B NT low square center 460cc red 195500-1350
86-87 13B T low square center 550cc tan 195500-1370
88 13B NT high square offset 460cc purple 195500-1350
88 13B T high square offset 550cc purple 195500-1370
89-91 13B NT high oval center 460cc red 195500-2010
89-91 13B T high oval center 550cc purple 195500-2020

[Prof]

in s4 cars the initial set coupler is green one pin plug beside the battery,, near leading coil
( you earth it to set the timing )
in s5 its a two pin plug that you short together
( you bridge it to set the timing,, one side is already to earth )

I\'ve an S5 and I have the single green connector that you earth off - located near the battery / leading coil.  It\'s pretty much in the same place as the 6 pin green one.  And before anyone says that\'s the tacho wire - it isn\'t - that\'s also there - but it\'s black.  If I earth the green one - it turns off the BAC valve (expected behavior), and with ignition on but car not started it puts out the error codes - so it is the correct wire.

[Prof]

all green plugs are for diagnostics,, like code check, set couple for timing , set couple for continuing fuel pump etc
they normally are not plugged to anything !
 
the map sensor wiring loom mod is for extra earth for early s4 cars with N318 and n326 map sensors
-- the factory corrected the issue on later cars ,,
an extra wire added near the loom plug, and off to earth is fairly obvious
 
the earthing bug gives some odd signals from the MAP,,
but also contributes to the dreaded staging stutter,,,
( is this what your getting?? )
 
as do the other earth within the engine harness
,, its very important with stock ECFU you check that all the various earths are happy
 
-----------------
 
standard injectors for turbos come as three distinct types
- square plug,, hi and low ohming types,, and oval plug, hi ohming

Some excellent info there !

[pdtaylor18]

As a matter of interest and it may be something to do with it but what difference does the impedence do in the injectors. I know that they have to be of the correct value usually classed as low or high but if they were wrong then what does the ECU see? Could it be that they are just the wrong type of injectors?
I also thought that the stock ECU does not reconise anything other than standard injectors so if they are uprated then surely whatever signal it sends is just going to open the injector and chuck in whatever fuel that injector is capable of.
The standard turbo is water and oil cooled and even without the water it would still do its job,especially when you say its glowing after a very short period. If it had a total lack of oil then it would soon seize and i expect you would hear something going on prior to that. The oil feed going to the turbo is actually quite powerful and i found out the hard way when i dumped 2 litres of oil on the floor when i forgot to do it up,that was like in seconds. Having water and oil cooled turbos is just another medium to take the heat away from the turbo body.

[chrisJDM]

thanks for all the info guys, im sure lum can sort it out :yes

[bumpstart]

As a matter of interest and it may be something to do with it but what difference does the impedence do in the injectors. I know that they have to be of the correct value usually classed as low or high but if they were wrong then what does the ECU see? Could it be that they are just the wrong type of injectors?
I also thought that the stock ECU does not reconise anything other than standard injectors so if they are uprated then surely whatever signal it sends is just going to open the injector and chuck in whatever fuel that injector is capable of.
The standard turbo is water and oil cooled and even without the water it would still do its job,especially when you say its glowing after a very short period. If it had a total lack of oil then it would soon seize and i expect you would hear something going on prior to that. The oil feed going to the turbo is actually quite powerful and i found out the hard way when i dumped 2 litres of oil on the floor when i forgot to do it up,that was like in seconds. Having water and oil cooled turbos is just another medium to take the heat away from the turbo body.

the only way a turbine can glow so orange - white hot you can see through it is retarded timing

- off which a faulty leading coil makes the most obvious target

as for injectors,, think of them like audio speakers
-- and the ECU driver like your amplifier
if the ohms are too low for what the driver is designed for,, it will draw way too much heat
-- much like the amplifier going near destruction when you feed it 1 ohm of speaker resistance,, when its designed for 4 or 8 !!

the low ohm injectors are peak hold,,IE the driver allows 5 - 8 A of current for an instant to move the heavy coil and seat
and then drops it to 1 A for the duration of the period its supposed to be open to hold it open

the hi ohm injectors are saturated,, they get something akin to a continuous current,, for arguments sake 4 A

- which is too low to make a peak hold injector drive off the seat fast with its heavier magnet
- and also falls from too high to make it shut quickly,,,
IE some very lazy injectors,, if working at all
and high likelihood of ECU burn out

in the vichy versa scenario,,
, the initial hi current designed for peak hold may well hurt the coil in the cheaper, lighter, saturated injectors
-- and the hold current may also not be significant enough to hold open that cheaper coil
-- so we can expect injector damage and some erratic spray as it struggles to stay open



-

[pdtaylor18]

Cool well presented !! some good info there,thanks. So hopefully if he checks the timing then that might cure the problem,easy fix if it is.