FC Turbo Glowing

Started by chrisJDM, March 18, 2009, 08:18:12 PM

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chrisJDM

My mate has just bought a FC, has brought it back, took it down the road tonight and took it up through the gears, boosted probably about 3 times, lifted up the bonnet and the turbo and manifold are glowing orange.  I dont know a great deal about FC\'s but is the turbo water cooled? do you reckon its not getting enough oil or water???

antnicuk

what mods and boost is it running.   How long had the car been running before you looked.

does it still have a cat?, a blocked cat can cause the turbo to glow quicker than it would normally, but it should glow after you have given a thrash.  Also, if its too rich it will also glow as EGT\'s will be higher.  Dodgy ignition timing can also effect EGT\'s,  check the plug leads are all in the right place.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


chrisJDM

its this car:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-MAZDA-RX7-TURBO-WHITE-FC3S_W0QQitemZ250375810369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item250375810369&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ebayphotohosting

bought it the other day, i havent actually had a look at the car myslef but another mate who knows a bit about rotaries has been looking at it and says he thinks its got uprated primary injectors but has standard ecu.  They said it has a decat aswell, also its rough on idle and shoots out small flames even on idle, they revved it to 3k and it shot out a 3 foot flame  :2eek

antnicuk

Quote from: sweetiewells;591930says he thinks its got uprated primary injectors but has standard ecu.  They said it has a decat aswell, also its rough on idle and shoots out small flames even on idle, they revved it to 3k and it shot out a 3 foot flame  :2eek

sounds like you have found the problem  :rolleyes:
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


Brett

Sounds like the fueling is all over the shot - get the stock injectors back in there, new plugs and a boost controller. (Either that or get an Apexi or Microtech :Giggle)
Brap Brap Brap Brap

m1tch

My car was fueling richer than 10:1 (was off the chart on the dyno graph) best to check the TPS and ignition timing, mine was about 2 degrees out and after it was sorted I got a LOT of power back :D lol

Prof

Quote from: antnicuk;591914what mods and boost is it running. How long had the car been running before you looked.
 
does it still have a cat?, a blocked cat can cause the turbo to glow quicker than it would normally, but it should glow after you have given a thrash. Also, if its too rich it will also glow as EGT\'s will be higher. Dodgy ignition timing can also effect EGT\'s, check the plug leads are all in the right place.

If it\'s really rich it might glow orange if you\'ve also got the air pump still wired, as it will be burning in the turbo.  EGT\'s are normally lower if you\'re a little rich - and go high with a leaner burn.  Water temps will go up with rich mixture.
 
My tubby has glowed a healthy dull orange before now, but only after 20+ minutes of abuse :driving:D.   If it\'s bright orange then it may be time to worry !!
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


chrisJDM

yep its bright orange my mate said "it sorta went see thru" lol and thats from driving it for 5 mins and not driving it that hard.
I think we need to suss out what injectors it has and also give it a good service, and check the igintion leads etc are ok
Also could do with a power fc but i know they are pretty rare

L18M

would the bov not working have anyting to do with it?
just throwing some ideas :)

another fc in somerset =\'( boo =\'(
lol
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

bumpstart

is this a stock ECU vehicle ??

orange turbine housing is MUCH more related to late ignition timing than to excessive mixtures
--- suss out to see if your leading spark is 100% operational,, and that the set coupler beside the leading coils is NOT bridged
( its used to lock the timing for tune up,, and may still be bridged )

then check that you have the correct MAP sensor to suit the ECU type
( ie N318 or N370 for the turbo cars )
-- as the stock ECU takes most of its timing inputs from the MAP sensor
 be sure its signal hose is also intact,, and that if N318 it has a modified earth point ( mazda bulletin )

the correct thing to due is the temporarily bridge the set coupler so as to set the timing to the -5 and -20 ATDC marks by moving the cas
( then remove the coupler )

NB
glow and backfire with stock ECU is also sometimes attributed to a faulty ACV on the rear of the LIM
( and so its injecting air to all the wrong locations )
-- the FSM has a check procedure to test if the internal bladder is torn

L18M

i think i got a ACV around in the garage if you need.. tho think lots of fc owners will have one kicking around lol
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

grinder

looks a nice car - got lots of fancy bits on it :D


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
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Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
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**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
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:Giggle

Lum

Thanks for all the tips guys, it\'s not my car but i had a look at it last nite.
My initial thoughts were that it is running mega rich, however if that was the case i would expect to get problems with flooding? You can run the car for 30 secs turn it off & it starts straight up on the button every time.
When we had it running it was relativly smooth off boost but as soon as you build up any sort of boost it stutters, it\'s not as harsh a stutter as say hitting fuel cut, more like the spark being blown out?
Thinking possibly the leading plugs are not firing properly so gonna check this.

Bumpstart-
I\'m not sure what map sensor it has on but will check, however there is a small green plug with one wire too it that is not plugged into anything right next to the map sensor?
I knew this wasn\'t right but there is no where obvious for it to go? Is this the modified earth you\'re refering too?
Am i right in thinking that standard injectors on an FC is 550\'s all round? What colour are the tops of these?
Thanks for all your help guys

grinder

i think that green is the diognostic earth connector

might be worth checking and cleaning the plugs - if its failing on boost - might be a cheap place to start

on a TII takes about 15 mins tops to check them all :D

out of interest - if its fully decatted and running a stock ECU with no FCD ( would be on the drivers front shock tower ) then you might be hitting boost cut


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Lum

I\'ve already changed all the plugs mate.
It\'s defo not fuel cut as it\'s struggleing before you get near full boost. I\'m not sure if it\'s fully de-catted, after having a quick look in the dark it looks like possibly a high flow CAT or maybe a silenced mid pipe? Either way it looks new & shiney:mmmm
Will give it a good going over & check all the things mentioned & hopefully get to the bottom of it!
To be honest i\'m just glad i ain\'t gotta build another engine:Talking1