Stripping the block... what\'s next?

Started by Jim_rx7, November 18, 2008, 02:57:38 PM

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Jim_rx7

I\'ve ordered the DVD set, they should be here tomorrow.

I\'ve got the front nut off with alot of persuasion. The garage will do the flywheel for me.

Glad about that part only fitting one way. Had me worried!!

Jim_rx7

Quote from: royal;557162That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.


I rammed a screwsdriver through one of the holes in the flywheel. Sat on the back of the block and yanked like a mofo!! Came off... I did think th breaker bar was going to snap though!!

Jim_rx7

Ok, I\'m getting there! :)

Quick question... how do you get this nozzle thing off? (circled in the pic)



The block is going to my local nice garage for them to get the flywheel off for me tomorrow.


This is what the block now looks like...


royal

Once you\'ve got the flywheel bolt loosened I wouldn\'t go any further until you\'re watched the DVDs, its a lot better if you are prepared when you take the block apart and get the rotors out. You\'ll save a lot of hassle later.
You preferably need to mark front and back rotor and keep a track of what rotor face all the parts come off of. If you don\'t know what to expect they\'ll all just drop off and you\'ll lose track of where they come from.

Jim_rx7

Yeah, I\'ve got the DVDs on order. RotaryArt seem to be making an arse of getting them to me though! Hopefully should have them tomorrow.

Yeah, I knew about marking up the rotors etc. I\'ve got the FSM which should hopefully keep me going until the DVD\'s arrive.

I\'m going to be taking it apart and laying it out as it is when it\'s together. (if that makes sense?). Just so I know exactly how they should be.

DMDRIFTING

I\'m watching this post like a nosey school kid lol, and think i will buy the dvd\'s from RotaryArt also :yes

Looks like its all going well! :Thumbsup!

Jim_rx7

The DVD\'s are decent mate. They give you a good idea of how to do things. It\'s not hard at all to be honest, but the DVDs really help.

This is the stage I\'m at just now mate...





I\'ve posted another thread with the pictures in it and some questions etc. Go have a read. :)  It\'s going well so far.

DMDRIFTING

I love it, engine in the house lol your lady must be well happy lmao

It does look like its going well, what rebuild kit did you purchase? And who from in the end chap?

Jim_rx7

#38
I\'ll be using the complete seal kit from RotaryArt.

Will be cleaning and measuring everything to see what needs replacing etc.

The lady is taking it all quite well to be honest! lol. She\'s just staying away from the room.

DMDRIFTING

Awesome, what is the price for their kit, if you don\'t mind me asking?

Jim_rx7

£150 for full block seal kit.

Still need some gaskets etc on top of it.

royal

Quote from: Jim_rx7;560811The lady is taking it all quite well to be honest! lol. She\'s just staying away from the room.

Where did you get your woman from, I need one just like her :) has she got a sister? I\'m half Scottish if it helps?!

shaunwil

Sorry about the small hijack but could you do me a big favour ???

Could you measure what the distance between these holes are :



Cheers

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

RobbieRX-7

Quote from: shaunwil;561167Sorry about the small hijack but could you do me a big favour ???

Could you measure what the distance between these holes are :



Cheers

Shaun

Mmm. I think shaun\'s cooking up an LPG kit for the FD:Giggle:Thumbsup!

a.tapos

take the sump off after the front pulley and flywheel,once the sump is off you can remove the front cover an access the oil pump and counterweight,make sure yo take a pic of the chain and weight behind the front cover so you put it all back together the right way round
,it doesnt matter which way up the thin gear goes back on the ecc shaft but mark it if you want to.

also make sure when you remove all the free wheeling parts that you have a metal spacer underneath the counterweight,i lost one and it was a pain,you should have one long dowell at the front of the block holding everything inline and a short one at the back on the flywheel/ecc shaft make sure you take these off whatever theyre stuck to as they have a habit of hiding too,
 
when you remove the 6 might be 8 bolts at the front of the block there will b a thrust washer and a washer make a note of the order,these small details could trip somebody up,

do the same at the back,you should be able to remove the stationary gear now just lever and tap them out,

the good bit is removing all the big bolts at the back of the engine and prizing the plates open to see what youve broken,ive got a engine stand that attches to the front plate but if you havent youll want to stand the engine on its front so you can lift all the sections off like a big mac.

not a great description but hope it helps.
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk