Stripping the block... what\'s next?

[shaunwil]

Was playing with a 12a and the same happened to me. Didn\'t realise just how much oil was in the sump :Giggle

Shaun

[Jim_rx7]

Yeah... was messy. I was suprised at how much was coming out!


Supposedly if I take the sump off that cover should come off easily as it\'s most probably being held in place with the sealant from the sump. The flywheel doesn\'t need to come off to get it off, just the front nut and pulley (which is already off). (from the rx7club forums).

[Jim_rx7]

u should get the dvds man lol, it`ll help u no ends

I\'ve just ordered the set!

[rustyrex]

its only a guess, but the more you strip the block the harder it will be to remove the fly wheel?I would get the fly wheel off next.
good work tho fella:Thumbs-up

[Jim_rx7]

Depends if you use some sort of flywheel stopper I suppose.

It\'s not an issue for me though as the garage will be getting it off with an air gun.

[RobbieRX-7]

Depends if you use some sort of flywheel stopper I suppose.

It\'s not an issue for me though as the garage will be getting it off with an air gun.

You better make sure they have a 54mm socket first. It\'s not a widely used socket on cars. I bet you a tenner they dont have one that big!


It\'s best to remove the front pulley bolt first, but you need to lock the flywheel still with a chain or bar to loosen it, then undo the big 54mm nut. Can\'t believe your doing this on that laminate floor you nutter.

I hope you marked the relationship between the front hub and pulley with the sensor tabs on, otherwise your timings gonne be off, and the car wont start. There is no need to remove the 4 little bolts to the pulley at all. Just remove the main 19mm bolt in the middle.

[Jim_rx7]

I hope you marked the relationship between the front hub and pulley with the sensor tabs on, otherwise your timings gonne be off, and the car wont start. There is no need to remove the 4 little bolts to the pulley at all. Just remove the main 19mm bolt in the middle.

Care to explain a little on this one?

[Kieron]

Jim\'s going to be doing a write up once he is finished :god :Santa

Dude, Cant find anywhere who will host (for free) the videos, they are 400mb each. I can DVD them and post it to you if you want. Drop me a line. kieronDOTash@snowandrockDOTcom

[RobbieRX-7]

Care to explain a little on this one?

On the front pulley, there is a metal ring with squares in. This ring has 2 tabs on. These tabs pass over the 2 sensors on the front cover, so the computer know\'s exactly when to inject fuel, and spark the plugs. If this ring is incorrect and fitted wrong, the synchronisation will be out and the computer won\'t know the position of the rotors thus refusing to start. The timing will be out.

Now you\'ve taken this ring off, there are 4 different ways that it could go back on. If you didn\'t mark the E shaft and pulley before removal, your gonna have to guess which way round it goes after you\'ve installed the motor back in the car.

[FD3UK]

On the front pulley, there is a metal ring with squares in. This ring has 2 tabs on. These tabs pass over the 2 sensors on the front cover, so the computer know\'s exactly when to inject fuel, and spark the plugs. If this ring is incorrect and fitted wrong, the synchronisation will be out and the computer won\'t know the position of the rotors thus refusing to start. The timing will be out.

Now you\'ve taken this ring off, there are 4 different ways that it could go back on. If you didn\'t mark the E shaft and pulley before removal, your gonna have to guess which way round it goes after you\'ve installed the motor back in the car.

No need to guess, it will only fit in one position where all the bolts line up.

[mx1311]

have fun with the 19mm front bolt and 54mm nut that holds the f/w on

tip: secure the block to something first and you\'ll need a bit more than a long breaker like a scaff pole to put over the breaker

[royal]

That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.

[RobbieRX-7]

No need to guess, it will only fit in one position where all the bolts line up.

Good. And there i was thinking the stupid mazda engineers made a simple, yet frustrating design flaw.:2Confused

That smaller front crank bolt is usually a complete ninja compared to the big 54mm crank bolt on the back. You need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 19inch socket. I broke 2 1/2 inch breaker bars, a socket, an impact socket and an adapter before going out and getting a bloody 3/4inch socket last week! cost me £50 just to remove the bolt lol! You need to loosen the small one at the front first. The DVDs will explain everything. You really don\'t want to be assembling the engine again without them, taking it apart isn\'t too bad but putting it together there\'s lots of things to check like tolerances etc which could mean another dead engine if not done properly.

I 100% agree. There are lots of little things you could miss out, or get frustrated with, when really there is a simple technique to follow. The apex seals are one of them, along with the sideseals and oil control ring springs. It\'s a piece of cake to rebuild, but dont do it unless you know what your doing. The ozzie dvd\'s will guide you well for a basic rebuild.

I don\'t think you\'ll need a bloody 19" socket though :Laugh Thats one BIG mutha!

[RobbieRX-7]

double post

[royal]

Haha oops you catch my drift though?