High speed inlet temp sensor

Started by Jonathan_F, June 05, 2006, 05:51:12 PM

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oddball

Hi Jonathan,  Is this the same sensor I had from you back in 2006 or have you found an upgrade
oddball

Jonathan_F

Quote from: oddball;554852Hi Jonathan,  Is this the same sensor I had from you back in 2006 or have you found an upgrade

Hi Oddball,

This is the same sensor. You had a prototype, these sensors are from a production batch. There is no difference between the two. How are you getting on with it?

Dr Schnitzel

Thank you for your question, its a good one. When mapping a car you are altering the ignition timing and the fuelling at each load point. You examine the data output in four ways - knock, AFR (Air fuel ratio - lean/rich condition), EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), combustion pressure. With this information you can adjust the timing and fuelling to suit your requirements of power, economy, and driveability.
When rolling road mapping, the demands on the intercooling system are extreme as airflow may be down on normal road/track conditions. This can cause the inlet air to run hot and cold depending on your load state.
If the inlet air sensor is not following the actual inlet air temperature, the ECU will not be able to match the fuelling correctly and this will cause rich/lean conditions. This will actually make it more difficult to map, as you will need to wait longer at each load point for the sensor to \'catch up\'. Straining you engine for longer than necessary, and increasing the risk of detonation.
It is actually easier to map a car with a faster acting inlet temperature sensor, as it is for any sensor. The better your input, the faster the ECU can respond and the steadier your outputs will be. Its important to understand that the ECU is using the inlet temperature to adjust the fueling automatically, all the time the engine is running. You will not be able to \'see\' any difference unless you specifically look at air inlet temperature.

Its also important to note that if your car does heat soak, the ECU steps up the fuelling (at abot 60-70degrees C) to reduce the detonation risk. This impairs fuel economy and makes the car sluggish, and the risk of plugs fouling is increased. This sensor eliminates the heatsoak at source. You may still see high temperatures, this will be due to an overstressed or poorly constructed inter - cooling assembly.

If you speak to Ross at Dragon, he is very positive about the sensor and has told me he will encourage his customers to have one fitted to their cars.

I hope this answers your question.

Regards, Jonathan Fennell

Clarky

Jonathan, Júst another question on the sensor. is it safe to fit without having a remap, you may of answered this in the post above, but im not sure, thanks
Lead me not into temptation, I can find it myself...
But i can always do with some help now due to, my advancing years!

oddball

Yet to be fitted, had the car converted to manual, plus a rebuild and a few other things so forgot all about the sensor.  Will get it fitted next time I go to REWORK.  What is now recommended, just replace standard sensor or relocate under elbow.
oddball

Jonathan_F

Quote from: Clarky;554875Jonathan, Júst another question on the sensor. is it safe to fit without having a remap, you may of answered this in the post above, but im not sure, thanks

Hi John,

Another good question. The sensor is safe to use without a remap. It is an automotive grade unit and I personally check the calibration of each item. There is a risk (very small)that your own sensor has drifted out of tolerance and when your car was mapped, the fuelling was adjusted to suit this \'drift\'.
The risk of damage is very small for two reasons:
1. A 40 degree C \'drift\' is worth half an air fuel ratio. That means that if your sensor was reading 40 degrees cold, then replacing it with a correct sensor will cause your car to run 6% leaner (half and air/fuel ratio). If your sensor was this far out, your tuner would (should) have noticed as your inlet temp would have been -20 degrees C in an ambient environment!

2. Included in the instructions with the product is a simple method to check the calibration of your sensor. You will require a volt/resistance meter to do this, or have a laptop link/ commander so that you can read what the ECU is \'seeing\'.

I hope that answers your question.

Ross, would you be able to comment? You have more experience than I.

Regards,

Jonathan

Jonathan_F

Quote from: oddball;554879Yet to be fitted, had the car converted to manual, plus a rebuild and a few other things so forgot all about the sensor.  Will get it fitted next time I go to REWORK.  What is now recommended, just replace standard sensor or relocate under elbow.

Hi Oddball,

I developed this product on my own vehicle. I had already moved the original sensor to the elbow to reduce heat soak. I found that the new sensor worked very well in both positions. Best practice is to fit the sensor in a position as close to the engine as possible. This is to allow the sensor report the air temperature as accurately as possible. I would fit the sensor in the standard position. Ross has done more work with these sensors than I, so let us see where he has been placing it, although I know his installation is very different to most. Ross?

Regards, Jonathan

DRAGON

Location is something ive played with on the circuit car, and yes years ago, it was best to move the sensor to say the elbow, to get a more realistic airtemp, as the stock location would heatsoak, and therfore your ECu would be making unecessry compensations.
However with the new sensor that is far quicker, I have moved it back to its original location!
Also with Auxillary injection being more commmon place, it is benificial to get a more realistic idea of actual air temps as close to the combustion chamber as possible, because the cooling via the AI will be done in the inlet tract, and I think if the sensor is further from the jets, it gives the AI and the air a chance to flash and give a accurate actaul intake temp.

hairyhoover

Jonathan, is there any update on when these will be available? I have ordered and paid for one through Ross at Dragon but he hasn’t received delivery.

I really need this by the latest on Friday as im getting my car mapped at the weekend.

cheers

shaunwil

Forgot to say, Arrived in Post early this week :D

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

hairyhoover


DRAGON

Quote from: hairyhoover;557604Jonathan, is there any update on when these will be available? I have ordered and paid for one through Ross at Dragon but he hasn’t received delivery.

I really need this by the latest on Friday as im getting my car mapped at the weekend.

cheers

They arrived yesterday and was sent straight out yesterday with Royal mail.

hairyhoover


karl_tate

yeh received mine earlier in the week as well, thanks.
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Clarky

Lead me not into temptation, I can find it myself...
But i can always do with some help now due to, my advancing years!

shaunwil

Quote from: hairyhoover;557656have you fitted it yet?

Not yet, still plenty of stuff to do before it goes on !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving