I spotted a little bit of rust today.. easy fix?

[FEED Rocket]

Realy?? My Old man works for British Aerospace and has just been the Liason between the BAE and the RAF on the Lancaster, belive me when i tell you they did not treat any rust plus there is very little Steel in a plane, Alloy Oxidises or Corrodes but its not Rust as found in cars (steel).
 
Where as i work in a Bodyshop, i have done LOTS of rebuilds on old Jags etc and rx7veilside is spot on, The only sure fire way to treat rust is cut it out and start again. There is ways of removing rust from say a stone chip thats gone rusty (shot blaster) but from a seam you are only dressing up the problem as you can not get to the rust thats causing the problem and it will be back, these rust treatments may kill rust (or what ever they Claim) but from experiance it only affects the Top layer of rust, if you don\'t grind it to death to start will the rust Stuff will just sit on the Top and not do allot (don\'t forget Rust creates Pits that are well below the surface so when you grind the top off have a good look at it and i bet you will see lots of Black dots where the Pits are)
 
This is why i tell eveyone that buys a Jap import to get it wax oiled (well) before it see\'s one of out winters (and get it redone once a year at the end of Summer), when you have owned or worked on a UK spec FD you will understand they come with Little to no protection from the factory and the Jap cars are worse as they are subjected to lots of Heat which as every one knows melts wax and it disperses over time.

I\'m currently serving the the Royal Air Force at RAF Coningsby on Typhoon. We don\'t use Jenolite here as the Typhoon has little to rust on it as its made from CFRP and KRP etc. Before my time here i was at RNAS Yeovilton working on Mk3 and Mk8 Lynx. These along with alot of aircraft have many steel parts (especially in the engine for heat shielding) which need to be treated or they will rust. This was a big problem for the Lynx as it spends most its time at sea, and sea spray(brine) is a major catalyst for iron oxide.
It is all relative on how bad the rust is. With RAF and Navy aircraft, we flight service them everyday to check for signs of corrosion, and we treat minor rust (like on Jims car) with Jenolite Jelly. Yes it works, i\'ve used it more times than i can remember. But you need to treat it afterwards or it will happen again.

[RobbieRX-7]

Are you sure your\'s is a uk spec jim?? Looks like a jap spec from the rear bumper.What engine size is on the log book?

I\'ve been told by 2 or 3 bodyshops that the only way to stop deep rust is to cut it out to unifected material. Once it eats right through the metal, it is unsolvable where as surface rust can be treated as long as there is fresh clean metal underneath.

Your\'s looks like it could do with the rust being cut out because it has gone rotton from inside the wheel arch caused by wet mud and salt not being washed out properley. It will only come back if you dont do it properley. Get an opinion from a few pro bodyshops and tell them you want it doing properley.

[Jim_rx7]

It\'s a UK mate. The chassis number doesn\'t start with FD. J something or other. I\'ll have a look later.

All in miles etc also.

I\'ll pop along to my bodyshop sometime soon and see what they say. Because of where it is, I would assume it can easily be cut out without the need of putting in new metal.

[FEED Rocket]

It\'s a UK mate. The chassis number doesn\'t start with FD. J something or other. I\'ll have a look later.
 
All in miles etc also.
 
I\'ll pop along to my bodyshop sometime soon and see what they say. Because of where it is, I would assume it can easily be cut out without the need of putting in new metal.

The rust is minor, use some Jenolite on that badboy and protect it!

[Brett]

No one has yet mentioned the long term effect of welding in a patch?  Ie the heat affected metal around the weld will be liable to rust very quickly.  Don\'t cut out anything until its that or lace car. (ie you can push your finger though it its that soft.)  Clean it, aplly the jenolite and then waxoyl it.  You will need to apply the waxoyl every summer or two, but it wont rust.  Don\'t forget to do the inside of the doors etc, inside any box sections and any other hard to get to rust traps. (Out of interest - what is the FD power plant frame made from? That looks like a potential rust pit to me)
:wave

[FEED Rocket]

Good to see someone else thats heard of Jenolite. Nobody seems to be listening. Whats the point in paying a bodyshop to cut and grind bits off your car when you can fix the problem with a little cream, lol!

[Nuk Su Kow]

Cut/grind out the effected arches then buy and fit some aftermarket ones!!
job done....and a great excuse to update the look of your car....
 

[Grizzly]

I\'m currently serving the the Royal Air Force at RAF Coningsby on Typhoon. We don\'t use Jenolite here as the Typhoon has little to rust on it as its made from CFRP and KRP etc. Before my time here i was at RNAS Yeovilton working on Mk3 and Mk8 Lynx. These along with alot of aircraft have many steel parts (especially in the engine for heat shielding) which need to be treated or they will rust. This was a big problem for the Lynx as it spends most its time at sea, and sea spray(brine) is a major catalyst for iron oxide.
It is all relative on how bad the rust is. With RAF and Navy aircraft, we flight service them everyday to check for signs of corrosion, and we treat minor rust (like on Jims car) with Jenolite Jelly. Yes it works, i\'ve used it more times than i can remember. But you need to treat it afterwards or it will happen again.

The thing is i don\'t want it to happen again? when i repair a car i try my best to remove all the rust and in turn it won\'t (with a bit of luck) come back. TBH i think we\'re talking about diffrent things, you are looking at a temp repair and i\'m looking at a Long term fix.

From first hand experiance (i have done this on more than one FD) without removing the Top section of the Arch (dubble skin) you can not treat the rust in between the two panels, Even if this Rust treatment Works (and i realy would not lay money on it) you would be better off sealing the edge where the two panels join so its water tight then remove the 1/4 trim and leather the inner arch with wax oil (don\'t buy the cheap stuff as it just runs back out  again)

What i am saying if the arch has Spread (if it has you will know what i mean)  there is No rust treatment or cures that will save you from cutting sections out of your arches.

You will find the the biggest killer on arch seams is capilary action, where the two panels are not sealed properly and the Welder has Burnt through the Primer (goes rusty round the Spot welds).

Brett, You are saying about welding making the panels thinner and speeding up the prosses of the Rust returning, We have recently had all this with Vauxhall, they have started using Boron to build there new cars from, so this means we have to test weld samples and send it to there testers before we could get approved, 5 of or 6 welders Failed so we had to buy Mig Brazers and state of the art Spot welders (at 25k each) to get up to there Approved Level. Now we Can garantee the Spot weld or Seam weld to be as strong as the factory, But that said i don\'t know many Body shops that will fork out 100k on welders like that so chancer are you will be right in saying like for like the New Weld will be weaker than a Factory one, but thats when it comes down to the guy who is doing the Repair, if there is NO rust left all fresh and is prep\'d Painted and sealed then Wax oiled Properly then there is no reason it won\'t last longer than the OE section.

This is a subject i like to think our shop is good at fixing, we do alot of Crash work (its the part of Body shop work where the money is) and i can show you pics of 2 year old Cars we have taken Panels off where there is rust inside the seam already. The last time i asked the Vauxhall warantee guy why? his reply was "all new cars are designed to last 5 years" Thats it!!!!! Would not go into it any more than that. Good Ehhh. Thats why Germans build the best cars

[elford_tim]

*cough* Recent Mercedes E-Class rust *cough*

[Grizzly]

TBH your Rust does look like Stone chips and could be easly fixed.

Worrie if it looks like this. As i say world of UK Fd\'s...

[RobbieRX-7]

What type of waxoil would you reccommend then? I once read that it cracks and lets the water in, trapping water and rotting the metal.

[Grizzly]

*cough* Recent Mercedes E-Class rust *cough*

Lets just say Merc are not what they where and there Cost Cutting has made them look bad in recent years.

[Grizzly]

What type of waxoil would you reccommend then? I once read that it cracks and lets the water in, trapping water and rotting the metal.

Your getting mixed up with Stone chip, that stuff is designed to be painted over and will crack.

Wax oil is Good because if its Scratched when the weather warms up it goes soft and seals its self, it also can be warmed up and sprayed into 1/4 panels etc so the same capilary effect that draws water into the seams will draw the Wax oil in (but be warned if you go mad you will be cleaning it off your drive for a month)

At the Moment we use 3m cavity wax as its quite thick and doesn\'t end up all over the place but there are loads of other makes etc, i would recomend you buy from a paint Supplys shop (if you have one in your area) for the simple reason Wax oil can be thinned so the cheaper stuff is just Thinner so it looks like more (if you know what i mean) and with wax oil thicker is better you can always warm it up to thinn it a bit if you need to.

[FEED Rocket]

Ok here\'s how jenolite works. On minor rust it will eat away at the iron oxide leaving the bare metal intact. After this you need to treat the bare metal with waxoyl, but preferably prime and paint it. If its a major rust point then obviously it will need to be cut. Jim\'s patch doesn\'t look bad at all, but i can\'t see underneath so i can\'t comment.

[Jim_rx7]

Where would I get this jenolite stuff?