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Hellfrauds do a stud extractor set but it does not reach all of the studs on twin manifold. My local shop were happy for me to buy them, try them and return them if they were no good. The set has several differently sized sockets. Worth a try.

I do feel for you. I hit black ice yesterday in mine it was the worst feeling in the world. By some miracle, and definitely nothing to do with my driving skill, I managed to miss the bmw and corsa that had just crushed into each other ahead of me. I shall have to be disciplined enough to put the rex away for the winter. The way I looked at it is I am lucky to have escaped with my life. That might not be easy for you on account of your loss.

I would say next step call your insurers for contact details of the recovery place. Take your car elsewhere. They will be charging extortionate fees just cause insurance companies will pay (at the expense of writing off your car). Get your insurance company to give you salvage rights if you wish to keep the car and negotiate the value agressively. If you are willing to accept a write off, get Clive to give the insurance company a valuation for yor car, otherwise you will be lucky to get more than £6000. However, the valuation service is only available to full members I believe.

Wishing you the best result,

Ambrose

Got one from them. Not a perfect fit without a lot of tinkering. The bolts were not correctly aligned and the base did not have enough material to sit flush on the rear hatch. The surface required a fair bit of prep to make it decent. By the time I finished messing with it, It would have been cheaper to import a used oem one in the correct colour.

I will try and make this in my FD. Its not as pretty or shiney as any of the motors in the pictures, but its a rotary so I guess it qualifies

got my fd on the dyno today and im quite happy with the results considering im still on twins, im putting out 318.8 at the fly and 281.2 at the wheels :cheers

A very good result. What mods do you have on your car?

The \'lower profile\' is due to the wider tyre, the profile of the tyre is the % of the tyre width so having a wider tyre will mean a lower profile as its done as a % to match the same circumference so both tyres are basically the same:

225/45/17 vs 255/40/17 = 6mm difference in circumference
225/45/17 vs 255/45/17 = 88mm difference in circumference

http://www.alloywheels.com/Tyre_Calculator

Interesting. It potentially opens up a range of tyre choices. I will have to use the calculators next time I get tyres. Or ask you for advice.

225/45 17 on the front and 255/40 17 on the rear

Why the lower profile at the rear? Should it not be the other way for high speed stability or have you compensated with adjustable suspension?

Sort the heat light prob, you know what\'s what now, short the two wires or fit sensor, not a hard job,  1hr max

What he ^ says. The warning light is the exhaust heat warning light. You will need to short it otherwise it will stay on all the time. If your car was correctly mapped using a wideband then you can rest easy. The knock sensor is just a glorified microphone and different cars will have different readings depending on the mods. Injector duty cycles can reassure you that you are not maxing out your injectors and possibly leaning out. On the monitor you can choose the parameters to be displayed or you can display up to 8 parameters. There is a manual for the commander somewhere online. Google is your friend on this matter as I cannot remember off the top of my head how to navigate the commander (the double rum and coke I had earlier are not helping). I can post a link to the manual tommorrow, if you cannot find it.

The knock is just a level not digits? I switched to print diguts.It was around 120 or 180 peak. Idling around 40?

All the sensors were marked last time i checked. Ill check again tonight.
I believe its just the cat sensor as thats what the previous owner stated.. Is there an easy way to tell and get to it!

Your knock level is a lot higher than I ever get. The highest its ever been is 70. It should be flashing the warning above 60. What injector duty cycles are you peaking at? Has this car been mapped for all the mods to give you peace of mind? If you press the right arrow on your commander, it will hold the peak values until you switch the ignition off.

Halfrauds has mineral oil on the cheap. What I use always. Yellow bottle I believe.

A sorted car by the looks of things. I might pop over for a look-see as its close to where I live and will let you know my feelings when/if I do.

I am still holding on to my vx220 and fd. I cannot get myself to let go of either.

Mrc (this club) is good for rotary events. FDUk.org is specific to the 3rd generation rx7. Thats all you need really. Is that your road legal plate on the RX7? Nice looking Rx7. The UK specs are getting ultra rare. The SLK is not too bad either.

Thanks for the responses. Its a 1997 model with pfc serial 010-0411. I cannot se any obvious signs of water, but I was very cold and might not have checked properly. Will check again today in better light. I have not had the problem with the standard ecu, but I have not had that in during a storm. I will open up the pfc and hunt for water ingress.

Many thanks.

Some time in the summer on a rather rainy day my boost and revs were all over the place and my FD died. The AA man tried to get it going to no avail. I noticed the Apexi Commander was stuck on the logo screen and car would crank but not start.  Replaced the Apexi ecu with standard and the car ran like a peach. I then put the Apexi back in and it ran ok until it died again on a rainy day today. Replaced it with standard ecu and it worked. What is wrong with my Apexi? I am so tempted to keep the standard ecu on as I only have it for safety and it conservatively tuned. Anyone else experienced this issue before? Is the rain a coincidence or a factor?