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I got a Koyo through Clive. Cheap they arent though. It was a shade over £500 I think.

s13s are made of chocolate not s14a\'s iv not known of a dead sr20det exploding on 300horses at 60km? - it not about silly power for me its about the unusualness and reliability - im not trying to build a don mega drift or track car, i want to build something i can finally enjoy driving without the fear

I know of two S14a\'s that have let go at around that sort of power and mileage. One with a bottom end failure and one with valve train issues.
 
You have to except that they are all getting to be old cars, with sometimes dubious histories. As soon as you modify any engine then a reduced life is going to go hand in hand with it.

Im not sure on the logic here I dont think the SR20 is any more reliable than a rotary. Infact I know more people who have had to rebuild them than I know of failed rotaries. Parts are cheaper and more readily available but thats the only attraction really. Also they sound terrible. :Giggle

iv got the standard rear strut bart and i have heard of people attaching them to these and iv seen some pics on here aswell, would that be ok?

Do you mean the rear strut brace? If you do, then this isn\'t strong enough to mount harnesses to.

I think titanium can be a nightmare to weld. The actual welding isnt the difficult part, but I think it reacts badly with atmospheric gases so precautions have to be taken to avoid contamination. I think they use argon fixtures to purge the area on the weld and behind it. Also I think surfaces need to be clinically clean to avoid problems.

I did this on one of my old cars. Its fine. You just need to be carefull when you want to drain it.

Ive got a usedstock exhaust you would be welcome to gratis. Only problem is location. Its in Huddersfield. Thought Id mention it as you might have family/friends up this way.

Are you able to point me towards a site where I can get them for the T04 for me then

Not sure where your based, but any turbo supplier should be able to get hold of one for you.
 
Si-H With the Holset units the reason its not specced any higher than 660 is life of the unit begins to be affected. Ive seen some units running higher than specced on trucks (which I admit had other issues) crack completely through the housing. Generally the temperature will only initiate the crack which then requires something else to propogate it, be it vibration, or external loading through pipework etc.

Match it right and you\'ll be fine.
Most Holset turbos are made for trucks and people have been using them for a good while on petrol engines
 
I\'ve got a friend just about to fit one to an SR20, heading for 5-600. And with the way he specs things, there\'s no way he\'d risk it if it wasn\'t suitable.
 
Guys in the states have been running truck turbos on big hefty V\'s for yonks

Sorry Mitch I seem to have caused you unnessecary worry.
 
I worked for Holset for 8 years and I can tell you that the turbine housing material is not rated to petrol EGT\'s. 660 degrees is the guideline given. Its not that it will fail immediately. Given the low mileage that most people run tuned cars for, it may well last a long time. Most of the Swedish guys I know who run them in drag cars just treat the housings as disposable items like an oil filter and except they will have to swap them out (Only £30-£40 a time). Also on another encouraging note RC Developments used to fit Holset turbos in some of their cars, with no issues.
 
As has been said above its not how hard you are pushing the turbo, but more a case of the elevated burn temperature in a petrol engine.
 
One thing which does concern me (Not enough to stop me planning on using one though) is what the housings containment properties will be at petrol egt\'s, if the worst happens and the turbo lets go.
 
On the material issue I would suggest garrett do spec different materials for pas car turbos and truck turbos simply due to the difference in cost. Remember that they do not manufacture the parts thmeselves, but simply assemble the parts together.

Zactly im worried now if the hot side goes it gonna throw off the compressor wheel and when its spinning at how every many thousand RPM its gonna be damaged
 
What is the difference between the two? if its off a diesel truck its going to be high temp anyhow as its always going to be working at maximum load, it would be different if it was off a diesel golf lol

Ok first off the wheel isnt the problem. Its the housing itself. It will crack through thermo mechanical fatigue, bits however wont just start dropping off. First thing you will see is what I can only describe as a furring up of the housing. Then after an unknown amount of time (maybe 1 heat cycle I dont know) tiny cracks will form initially and will then slowly propogate through the housing. Eventually you will start to see leakage, but I would guess you\'ld have noticed them by then. Plenty of guys in Norway/Sweden and even the US have run them but generally on drag cars. I cant speak for Garrett, but I can for Holset and we quote 660 degrees as the safe working temp for our housing material. In a petrol engine temps will be well above this.
 
Possibly the tone of my first post was a bit inflamatory and I apologise for that. Basically what Im saying is its OK to use a Diesel unit as long as you except the risks and keep an eye on things.

Great Wish I never bought it now

Dont worry about it. Its the route Im going, as I dont think you can justify the cost of the Garrett performance car units. I dont know about garrett housings, but Holset ones (which I plan to use) are peanuts, so if/when it cracks I\'ll chuck on another.

I havent read the full thread so apologies if its been said but a diesel turbo is not designed for the exhaust temps you will see on a petrol car particularly a rx7. Dont get me wrong it wont fail immediately, but you will have to treat your turbine housing as a disposable item and change it fairly regularly (depending on the mileage you cover). It will fur up and crack. Still dont let that stop you. The housings are cheap as chips to buy. Not sure what the burst characteristics of it will be at petrol egt\'s though.

Ok for completeness if anybody does a search. The idler pulley bearing fitted (Just noticed the mistake in the thread title and my original post. :mad:) is a NSK 6303DU2. However I have no idea what the nomenclature means. A DU is a single contact seal unit but there are clearly 2 seals fitted which means it should be a DDU so there you go. :3Confused Tomorrows job at work is to get hold of a new unit and press it in.

Deffo get a pump.
 
850 primaries I think are to be avoided as they are a pain to sort at idle.
 
With my car even with a FPR and pump (and keeping pressures sensible) my stock injectors were running way high duties at 0.9bar.
 
I went for a replacement secondary rail and 1600\'s which I realise are complete overkill for stock twins, but it saves changing them later if I go single.

Looks good.
 
I like the look and finish of flocking, but do you have any idea on durability?