Hi there,
Nice to see a forum with some activity! And great to see the thread with Clive's RX4 pointy nose restoration! I have just taken the step up from a California-spec RX7FB to an RX2. As far as I'm concerned this is the holy grail of Toyo Kogyo. These cars sold quite well here, among the mountains west of the little pond. Most sold were 4-door 616 piston cars (our family had two), but most rotary cars were 2-door super deluxe coupés. My car started its life as a local dealer's pet and since went through some serious ups and downs. When I purchased it this spring, it had (it turned out) been neglected for some time. I'll take you through some of the details later if there's interest. First it looks like I've some reading up to do, though!
And, whoops, looks like I have to learn how to scale pictures on this platform...
Welcome to the MRC forum. Really looking forward to seeing some pics of your RX-2.
As you've spotted, this forum software doesn't automatically scale uploaded pictures. There are many ways to resize before posting, but choosing 1024 pixels wide will work for most viewing on here.
BTW, I have purchased a SSL security certificate to solve the browser warning issue. I just need some help to install it but that is hopefully in hand ;D
Quote from: Casey on November 23, 2020, 10:19:46 PM
Welcome to the MRC forum. Really looking forward to seeing some pics of your RX-2.
As you've spotted, this forum software doesn't automatically scale uploaded pictures. There are many ways to resize before posting, but choosing 1024 pixels wide will work for most viewing on here.
BTW, I have purchased a SSL security certificate to solve the browser warning issue. I just need some help to install it but that is hopefully in hand ;D
EDIT: I'll resize your pic tomorrow, when viewing on my PC as not easy on a phone.
Deuces are awesome


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Thank you very much, Casey! And
kiitos, Re Japi. I just have to go online for a picture manager. Preview for some bizarre reason doesn't cut the mustard here. In the meantime, let's try to embed a YT video:
:welcome: Yngvar you finally got here :icon_thumleft:.
Here's one of the pictures of your wonderful RX-2 :great:
Nice little video there :13:
My main broadband is down this morning, so stuck with a phone and mobile broadband :(
One easy way to resize on some systems, on most pcs at least, is to right click on the photo and chose the option to "send to email". An option to resize the picture is given. Select 1024 width and save the resized picture to use as an attachment and dump the email.
Let's see...
...yep, that seems do have done the trick. Thanks for posting the other pic, Clive. Gives me the jitters to see it as it looked before I started tidying it up. Beneath that stunning and deceptive surface lurks two full bin bags of damp sound proofing, tons of cables and a blown boom box in the boot, trail ignition circuit 60 degrees off the mark, etc, etc...
Now, after getting rid of the rust in the rear, the paintwork has become two-tone. That colour (burnt orange) doesn't age too well. It goes brown-ish, so the rest of the car needs doing next. Currently stripping down doors and front end for the return to the paint shop.
:sign0098: perfect on my phone screen :icon_thumleft:
Well done for saving this one! Looks great.
Quote from: re japi on November 24, 2020, 09:30:05 AM
Damn, you know some Finnish


But how do you know that Im a Finn?
[/quote]
Jarno, but your famous, the world knows who you are and where your from :)) :)) :))
I have to eek out my Finnish vocabulary, I see! Did a rotary tour of Finland last year. Went to Joensuu in the RX7. Great roads!
Ah, yes, about the two-tone paint, I think it's "burnt orange" specific. Anyone else noted it? This Japanese Capella Rotary Coupé seems to have got it, too:
What? To Joensuu with RX-7?

Brave man, that far away from everything

Where you are from then?
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<– Norjalainen ;)
Brave? In an RX7FB? I'd drive to Siberia in that one. Such a reliable machine!
The most spectacular thing about Finnish B-roads is when they suddenly expand into proper airstrips! (It makes perfect sense: It's always handy to be able to land a fighter jet in the middle of nowhere). Unfortunately, I had an imbalance in the left front, so I couldn't complete that quarter mile run...
Oh, I see. Hello

Yeah, FBees are quite reliable. If electrics are ok.
Yep, FBs nose lifts off when you are going more than 180 kmh

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Some C roads here are just amazing to cruise around. However, usually they are in poor condition
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:)) Have you tried Norwegian regional roads? There's a reason why it's not that popular to lower cars around here.
No, really, I'd take another trip to Eastern Finland again just to enjoy the roads. Btw legend has it that Eastern Finland is where old Peugeots go camping before they die:
Unfortunately, I havent been in Norway. Altough plan is to go see some rallycross some day.
For me, I prefer my local area roads. There is some good roads here too. I live in Hämeenlinna.
Old Peugeots, all Peugeots deserv to rust in peace

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I'll let you know when the next Norwegian rotary meet is coming up. Something will happen this summer, when this pandemic thing is hopefully over. Also hopefully, the RX2 is back from the paint shop and my re-built carb is returned in time.
Trial fitted new mirrors yesterday. Getting ready for return to paintshop. Fuel filters and pump up next. :)
Looks factory fresh in that pic :icon_thumleft:



Is that a rear view mirror on your back wall ???
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Well spotted! No idea how it got there or which car it's from. But nobody sneaks into my garage undetected while I'm busy breaking some irreplaceable part at the workbench. :))
Good plan. I hear mortals venturing close to my shed.
Gravel is crap to work on but you hear it miles away lol
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All this old tech security ;) ;D
21st century security here. Webcam covering my garage with all footage streamed and stored on a NAS drive, so even if the camera is nicked, I'll have any approach recorded.
Malcolm I'm lucky if I can wire a 3 pin plug lol
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I've had a soldering iron in my hand since I was about 10 years old!
Since Clive has taken the trouble of explaining why he got his Rx4, I might as well give a hint why I spent a decade looking for an Rx2 coupé.
Early exposure to 616, most probably...
And yes, Jarno, that is a Finnish water tower you see in the background! ;)
What a...?

Funny thing, there was two new RX-2s sold in Finland. All I know about them is than they both went to overseas, to Sweden or Norway


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Kaveri? Do I detect Finnish sarcasm?
"Overseas"? Surely you can drive to both from Finland ??
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Quote from: Jamie R on February 24, 2021, 04:26:37 AM
Kaveri? Do I detect Finnish sarcasm?
"Overseas"? Surely you can drive to both from Finland ??
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Actually, I was not being sarcast.

I was just being, well, me!

Much more easier to go over sea than drive from north to Sweden ot Norway

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[/quote]Much more easier to go over sea than drive from north to Sweden ot Norway

[/quote]
Gentlemen, you are both right. :icon_thumright: Depends a bit whether your point of departure is Rovaniemi or Turku. And whether your destination is Stockholm/Oslo, or Kiruna/Narvik. Those two Finnish-sold Rx2s most probably went on a ferry. Hopefully they didn't end up like this:
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on February 24, 2021, 05:09:28 PM
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Much more easier to go over sea than drive from north to Sweden ot Norway

[/quote]
Gentlemen, you are both right. :icon_thumright: Depends a bit whether your point of departure is Rovaniemi or Turku. And whether your destination is Stockholm/Oslo, or Kiruna/Narvik. Those two Finnish-sold Rx2s most probably went on a ferry. Hopefully they didn't end up like this:
[/quote]Thats true. Me, living in south, assumed that over sea is best option


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From 1975 to 1988 and another couple of reasons why Rx2. My poor, hard-serving 616 series IVs. May they rest in pieces. :'(
Quirky carb issues. The gaskets in the recon set I bought don't quite match. Fortunately, my specialist has sourced the right ones. I suppose this is another series I/series II hybrid mish-mash mix-up thing.
Been having a good look under the rear wing today. A bit of a rat's nest by the look of it. Pump is hanging loose, so perhaps no wonder it's a bit LOUD. Needs sorting out. No point in fitting a reconditioned carb if the rest of the system's grubby. But first some more investigation into the available options.
Looking a bit menacing now with the front bumper off. >:D
Recognise that red door on the left, Jamie?
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on March 13, 2021, 06:59:59 PM
Looking a bit menacing now with the front bumper off. >:D
Recognise that red door on the left, Jamie?
Mk1 escort
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Almost. Cortina mk1 right hand door. My last cortina part. From a two-door GT that was used for rallying back in the 60s and 70s. Now sadly departed. Perhaps I should have the door restored as a kind of memento... :))
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on March 13, 2021, 07:29:40 PM
Almost. Cortina mk1 right hand door. My last cortina part. From a two-door GT that was used for rallying back in the 60s and 70s. Now sadly departed. Perhaps I should have the door restored as a kind of memento... :))
Yup garage art. Mount it on the wall and turn it into something practical like a shelf etc
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Another thing to sort out is the exhaust. Tail pipe has rusted away. Looks like the rest of the system is approaching retirement age. Wonder if it's possible to find an original exhaust or whether I have to build a bespoke one/have one built.
As Malcolm says the filter is the same in-line filter used on all early Rotarys.
The fuel pump is origonal and the closest direct replacment will be a Facit one as pictured.
Thanks. That one looks right, yes. Will put a small filter next to it and tidy up the hoses and wiring.
Quote from: clive on March 14, 2021, 12:21:58 PM
As Malcolm says the filter is the same in-line filter used on all early Rotarys.
The fuel pump is origonal and the closest direct replacment will be a Facit one as pictured.
O0o0o0 looks like a facet red top
Apparently the square ones like that are quiet.
I had a facet cylindrical one on my escort, sounded like a hamster on a noisy wheel in the boot
Quote from: Jamie R on March 14, 2021, 03:40:10 PM
O0o0o0 looks like a facet red top Apparently the square ones like that are quiet.
I had a facet cylindrical one on my escort, sounded like a hamster on a noisy wheel in the boot
This might have helped, but too late now, of course: https://soundproofcentral.com/hamster-wheel-quiet/ (https://soundproofcentral.com/hamster-wheel-quiet/)
My old square pump sounds like a mad woodpecker on speed drumming away in the rear wing. So if these little Facet pumps are silent, that's good news!
Bonnet's been delivered to the paint shop. Dismantling front headlamps I found lots of mud behind them. :icon_porc:
Right hand door needs adjusting a tad backwards, so I will have to get to those hinges. In the process I located some left-over sound proofing (probably damp) in that area - grrrr. Finally got my parts from Phil's Rotaries down under, so looks like project is on the track again. Still waiting for carb and fuel pump. Once they arrive, I'll post a couple of pics.
The Nikki is back from refurbishment. Water-blasted and fitted with new seals. Acceleration pump fixed. Neat!
Thanks to Torstein at Flatt Jern! :sign0098:
Not water blasted, sorry. Ultrasound to preserve the original look! Another pic (before installation began):
Looks great :icon_thumleft:
Coincidentally, I've spent a few hours today continuing to clean up a spare 4 barrel Nikki carb - dismantling most parts, some of which I've already electroplated to try and preserve the original look. I have a Hygrade rebuild kit but I'm not sure I'll ever manage to get it all back together correctly! I've taken loads of photos and have several carb service manuals so hopefully will be OK ;D
Brave man! I was warned the Nikki can be tricky. Left with a pile of left-over seals that don't fit mine - had to mix two different sets. :))
Ready (nearly) for a trip out on the trailer - to the paint shop. Just the fuel lines, pump and filter left to fit.
That's looking great :13:
Noriaki moved on from glass shop to paint shop today. Unfortunately, the old windscreen cracked when they took it out. :(
Known to happen, I have a new one, but still a bit of a waste. Not too much rust underneath, though. Bonnet is in primer already. Still haven't found holes for Coupé-badge on the boot lid. Exciting times ahead! ;D
Going to be such a wonderful car when finished :great:
Thanks Clive. That coming from the man who sets the old school Mazda standards, I'd better get it right! :)
The Rx2 is the King of Bling. 12 badges in all, 10 of them on the photo here. If I wore them all, I could probably pass for a hip-hop artist from the 1980s. ::)
Renewing all I can find and Pac Performance have been very helpful for collecting them. Their "coffin" grille badge came without the blue enamel, but it turned out Humbrol's 222 blue metallic is pretty much on the spot. One of the rear wing badges came in two halves, but I was very kindly offered a replacement with my next order.
Very nice :great:
More preparations for "giant model kit" build. Cleaning, painting and polishing. In base silver, that radiator grille looked a bit Aston Martin DBS. I bought a spare one to experiment on and will keep the original as a back up. It was too nice to mess with.
Looking good :icon_thumleft:
Badge number 12 (number 11 can be seen on the last picture in the previous post) I chose not to replace. As it turns out, it is really the same part as the rear panel "Super Deluxe" badge seen on RHD cars and available from Pac. For some reason, this one was placed on the radiator grille on Norwegian spec cars. To fasten it to the grille, it is first attached to a bracket. The bracket was in a sorry state, but with a bit of gentle straightening with a hammer, some sanding and a fresh layer of paint it is ready to go back on. Badge before and after (reflections don't give it full credit):
Looks Super ......... Deluxe ;) :) :)
In Norwegian it translates as "Drinker Deluxe". Very appropriate ref to that thirsty 4-barrel Nikki. :))
Final stages of grille-refurb, the "Fiat Dino stage", badges coming back on, old and new. You might think putting badges on a grille is pretty straightforward. Well, Pac's RE-emblem came without clamps, so I first had to refurbish my old rusty ones. Then the screws on the new badge were too thick for the original clamps, so they had to be drilled to 5mm. And so on and so forth. But here's the result:
Amazing updates!! Your car is going to look gorgeous.
I have also pending to do a big order to Pac, similar as yours haha
Quote from: Cloud2232 on May 18, 2021, 07:53:05 AM
Amazing updates!! Your car is going to look gorgeous. I have also pending to do a big order to Pac, similar as yours haha
Thanks! So will yours! Meet at Rotarystock 2022? :great:
The badges from Pac are generally very good quality and good looking, but some things are simply difficult to make. The "coffin" badge, f.ex., is much heavier than the original and the looong fastening screws are only soldered on. They can easily break off if you need to adjust them a bit to fit the grille (and you probably will). Upside is you can solder the screw back on, downside is, you must make sure not to remove too much tin, or the screw will end up too short. And if it gets too hot, the badge might even start melting. Please don't ask how I came to know all this! ;)
Dropped by the paint shop to see the progress today. Windscreen frame is now rust-free and work on the rear panel, off side wing and door has started
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on April 27, 2021, 05:24:15 PM
The Nikki is back from refurbishment. Water-blasted and fitted with new seals. Acceleration pump fixed. Neat!
Thanks to Torstein at Flatt Jern! :sign0098:
Did you removed the secondary butterfly vacuum diaphragm actuator?
Is this the one connected to cold climate/normal climate settings? Good question! When you give the job to an expert, you do lose the overview a bit. I don't have the car here to check atm and I'm not sure. My photos don't really show this part either. What is the benefit of disconnecting it? What I know for sure is that the oil metering pump has been deactivated, which means I have to rely on a few drops of two-stroke oil in the fuel.
Still have a few bits left to recondition before I get the car back from the paint shop. And some things that looked ok, now look a bit tatty compared to the rest, so have ordered some new position lights/indicators and a set of original Koito headlamps. Apart from that it's pretty much a waiting game now:
Briefing from paint shop today. Right hand side door gap adjusted and straigthened. Concerns about old filler on the roof above windscreen – this is the job that was done after the car rolled back in the old millennium. There were two repairs. After the first botch-up job, the car was fitted with a beige vinyl roof (ugh!). Luckily, this was removed in the second restoration in the 1990s, when lots of hard and expensive work was done to make the roof look as original. But after nearly 30 years or so the filler has begun letting moisture through in that exposed area. No other surprises thus far, fortunately. Progressing according to plan and back to waiting...
What's in a Rx2 smile? I'm speaking about those neatly shaped indicator/position lights that give the Capella such a friendly face. Nice-looking, quality repro lamps are available, but what are the differences? More than you might think! I'll end up using the new glasses and screws with the old housings, clips and gaskets. Why? Well first the repro lamps, a nice fit as they are, do not come with proper chrome-plated reflectors. Second, neither do they come with the little, shiny metal clips that prevent light pollution between the white and amber lights. Third: the repro gaskets are thinner and lack the tiny drain channels (!) on the lower part of the original ones. The more I look at tiny details such as these, the more impressed I become with the thoroughness of vintage Mazda design. What wonderful little cars!
Love the way the primer brings out the lines on that bodywork. Just waiting for it to dry properly now, so perhaps heading for the paint box by the end of this week...
Quote from: Cloud2232 on May 24, 2021, 04:30:38 PM
Did you removed the secondary butterfly vacuum diaphragm actuator?
Have checked and answer is affirmative. This was already done (on some previous owner's watch) before the carb went in for refurb. :)
The Return of Noriaki, Part II
Getting there! Might have to change the title of this thread soon... ;)
That is looking really, really good :love4:
Back from paint shop and glass man. New windscreen in place. And first job is...
...yep, you guessed: paint! So wrapped and masked up the car for some satin black detailing + some orange paint for the battery tray.
Once the paint is properly dry, assembly begins. An inevitable snag or two have appeared. More about those later.
New windscreen, Wow how did you find that ?
One surprisingly came up for sale just after I bought the car, so I just went for it. I made arrangements with a car glass specialist to pack it for the seller so it could be sent to me in the mail. Since then I heard that a few years ago, some Rx2 owners down south joined forces and ordered a batch of 10 windscreens from Finland. 10 screens was the minimum order, so each of them had to take two. That surplus came in very handy! ;D
The snag. Well, I know my car rolled (an accident while parking up, apparently) and I have a photo of it lying on the roof (which I had to promise not to share with anyone). On the photo, the right hand side of the car is undamaged. So, the car has at some point been rammed in the right hand side, just behind the door. There is evidence of the damage reaching the inner panel under the rear side window.
This affects the door shut line, which was massive at the rear side of the door. So, we shimmed up the door hinges and got the door properly aligned. Now the door lock needs adjusting a little bit lower and that is not possible, because the block at the back of the door frame does not move down far enough. This might (or might not) be a consequence of the same accident damage. I suppose the frame that holds the block might have got twisted by the impact, but it is hard to tell. Planning to try a bit of brute force first and see where that gets me, but it's pretty hard to gain access to that area.
Another thing I noticed was that the rear side window runner is quite badly rusted, so in for some more messy work.
Just have to throw in a picture of that (above mentioned) indicator lens seal with the ducts.
Front end coming back together. Test-fitted grille, too, but it'll have to wait for the bonnet.
More great work and progress :sign0098:
That looks amazing !!
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Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 26, 2021, 09:26:00 AM
One surprisingly came up for sale just after I bought the car, so I just went for it. I made arrangements with a car glass specialist to pack it for the seller so it could be sent to me in the mail. Since then I heard that a few years ago, some Rx2 owners down south joined forces and ordered a batch of 10 windscreens from Finland. 10 screens was the minimum order, so each of them had to take two. That surplus came in very handy! ;D
What?


I dont understand, we dont have any RX-2 here
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Quote from: re japi on June 28, 2021, 04:43:08 AM
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 26, 2021, 09:26:00 AM
some Rx2 owners down south joined forces and ordered a batch of 10 windscreens from Finland. 10 screens was the minimum order, so each of them had to take two. That surplus came in very handy! ;D
What? 
I dont understand, we dont have any RX-2 here
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That might well be, but Finland does have some great windscreen manufacturers that deliver screens for any car (at least if you buy at least ten). They have pretty good data on windscreen curvatures and sizes, so they don't need a sample screen either.
Not so easy to get a standard spec exhaust system built – the company then needs to have one of the cars in for a few days to set up a jig.
Working at the moment on finding a company to make four Rx-2 exhaust systems for us. That would be more difficult in Finland! ;)
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 28, 2021, 08:18:23 AM
Quote from: re japi on June 28, 2021, 04:43:08 AM
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 26, 2021, 09:26:00 AM
some Rx2 owners down south joined forces and ordered a batch of 10 windscreens from Finland. 10 screens was the minimum order, so each of them had to take two. That surplus came in very handy! ;D
What? 
I dont understand, we dont have any RX-2 here
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That might well be, but Finland does have some great windscreen manufacturers that deliver screens for any car (at least if you buy at least ten). They have pretty good data on windscreen curvatures and sizes, so they don't need a sample screen either.
Not so easy to get a standard spec exhaust system built – the company then needs to have one of the cars in for a few days to set up a jig.
Working at the moment on finding a company to make four Rx-2 exhaust systems for us. That would be more difficult in Finland! ;)
Oh, ok. Funny thing that our guys had to order FD windscreens from overseas
Martelius exhaust, they make best exhaust, in the World (using Jeremy Clarkson voice)
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Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 28, 2021, 08:18:23 AM
Quote from: re japi on June 28, 2021, 04:43:08 AM
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 26, 2021, 09:26:00 AM
some Rx2 owners down south joined forces and ordered a batch of 10 windscreens from Finland. 10 screens was the minimum order, so each of them had to take two. That surplus came in very handy! ;D
What? 
I dont understand, we dont have any RX-2 here
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That might well be, but Finland does have some great windscreen manufacturers that deliver screens for any car (at least if you buy at least ten). They have pretty good data on windscreen curvatures and sizes, so they don't need a sample screen either.
Not so easy to get a standard spec exhaust system built – the company then needs to have one of the cars in for a few days to set up a jig.
Working at the moment on finding a company to make four Rx-2 exhaust systems for us. That would be more difficult in Finland! ;)
Btw, can you remember companys name?
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Here you go Jarno, Pilkington Finland.
I used to buy these until the UK Claassic car arm was closed here in the UK.
https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/original-equipment/specialised-transport/marine/contacts
Moving on forward. Now embarking on the left-hand side. New door seals and the whole lot to be installed. I am very grateful for the fact that PAC Performance offer quite a wide range of repro parts for the Rx-2. However, I suspect their three letters stand for Pretty Approximate Calibration. The other day, I found out that the rear wing badges have to be glued on, because one of the pegs either side is 2mm off the mark (there will be NO drilling, thank you!). Today it turned out that the door seals lack two fastening pins in perhaps the most crucial spot (top front-see bottom photo). Well, glue it is again, then. Grrr!
Quote from: clive on June 28, 2021, 08:48:16 AM
Here you go Jarno, Pilkington Finland.
I used to buy these until the UK Claassic car arm was closed here in the UK.
https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/original-equipment/specialised-transport/marine/contacts
Damn

Thanks Clive


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More approximate stuff: PAC's firewall seam seal turned out to be just a short length of door push-on strip. Bears no resemblance to the original, so sticking with the old part. Fortunately the window channel strips seem to fit quite well. Lots of work and little visible progress, so trial fitted antenna for visual effect.
Taking shape, bit by bit :sign0098:
Added some detailing I forgot earlier. Ran out of satin black so got a different type. Wish I chose that one from the outset, but too late now. Then the "firewall" behind the back seat: it consists of bottom-of-the-range plywood. A former owner had broken it in half and thrown away the smaller part along with the clips. Got a plate for free at the building supplies shop big enough to make a few if needs be. It's one mm thicker, so will keep the fire at bay for that microsecond longer :))
Next to the challenge of the day – fitting windows. Well, they are in, sort of, filthy with Waxoyl and Fluid Film from the doors, they just don't move as they should, so something is wrong. Something more than fastening adjustment, by the looks of it. They derail before fully up, then stop. Any tips appreciated. The Haynes manual is very secretive about this and says mainly: "lift window out" and "to install follow reverse order" or something. Not sure exactly what, but something is missing. Any tips and/or advice highly appreciated.
Finally, have fun spotting differences from a couple of posts back.
Haha. Window problem sorted. Turned out to be a no-brainer. Three out of four now in and working, the right hand side rear window will have to wait until the door catch problem is sorted. The better workshop manual to consult is not Haynes, obviously.
Noted 1: One deviation from manual is possible – you can get the windows in the doors with the outer weatherstrips on. Helps protect the paintwork.
Noted 2: But don't try the same trick on the rear side windows. You'll need the extra space!
Noted 3: You'll need a helper to hold the window for you when you install it in the door (unless you have the rare ability to grow a third, fully functional arm from the top of your head). The rear side windows can be handled on your own.
Nearly got to fire up the engine as well, but the MSD box wiring got moved on some point for some reason or other, so interference all along the line. Needs a quick sorting out.
Bonnet and boot lid arrived today. Alignment tricky as always and bonnet still doesn't want to shut properly. But it doesn't look too bad! :)
1970s build tolerances. Unless you're spending 0000s of hours going for a concours finish, nail it on and enjoy


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Quote from: Jamie R on July 10, 2021, 09:04:07 AM
1970s build tolerances. Unless you're spending 0000s of hours going for a concours finish, nail it on and enjoy


Don't worry, Jamie. Add to the above some 1980s and 1990s accident repair tolerances and it's clear this isn't going to be a Pebble Beach candidate if I put in a million hours. :)) (see pic 1 for ref)
Reason bonnet wouldn't shut was that some previous owner had put the catch plate on upside down. So whoever it was moved the bonnet half an inch forwards to make it close properly. It looked dreadful. (pic 2 - bonnet catch plate in correct position)
Messing with the bonnet catch is high risk. If it gets jammed, Haynes recommend to
saw a hole(!) in the bonnet :eek: :eek: :eek: to get to the catch!
Bottom pics: before and after. A tad "factory fresher" now?
Yup that's a sterling effort.
Amazing colour too



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I did a similar thing to my boot lid the other day on the rotus. Trying to go from cable to solenoid operated.
It wouldn't open and got jammed because of the funny angles. I've completed re-engineered it to a different lock now.
But when it got stuck thankfully the hinges weren't bolted on so I could gain access and unbolt it. Much swearing involved
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When I put the RX-4 back together I found the front wings and the trims on the arches etc just didn't fit ! I decided not to make them fit as it obviously came out of the factory like it and as I have said to many, back then the cars components were not computer generated. With a car that had no rust to me this way it was a strip, paint and reassemble rather than a restoration.
p.s while searching for this picture, I found one of my favourite pictures.
Great pics, Clive! Yes, I'm very happy with the shade of orange. Thanks to Mike at the paint shop! I suppose if I'd done like Clive and taken the wings and front panel off, that could have improved panel gaps a tad, but even like this it is a major improvement.
Mazda were a bit stingy with the paint back in the 70s. There's no paint under the bonnet or boot mounts, nor under the bonnet lock. Must have caused a lot of unnecessary rust back in the day. Those places were only covered in a thin layer of original primer on my car, despite at least two resprays. No rust there, though, so this car has definitely been properly garaged for most of its life.
Looking forward to the next Rotus update, Jamie. Keep up the good work!
Right hand side door now sorted and shutting almost perfectly. To get to the back plate, I had to cut one of the fastenings and prise the frame back slightly. This turned out to be far faster and easier than I feared. Once I had the back plate out, I could cut off 1,5 mm of metal along its bottom edge. Some steel brushing and paint, and then back into the frame. This nearly eliminated the problem. I suspect there is another side to it as well, though. The distance between the door lock and catch seems a little too small compared to the left-hand side door and there's a tell-tale gap above it. It's likely this side of the door lock got bashed as well when the damage was done. I'll change the door lock at a later stage. For now: shut line massively improved and the door works fine.
Rear side window finally going in. First the rail, then the mechanism, then the glass, and then the rear rail. Next the brightwork strip needs calibrating - tight enough to sit firm, not so tight it damages the paintwork. Weather strip is a weird bit. Hard to tell when it decides to stick in place, but it does eventually with some patience. Then the door card with the inner weather strip (a bit of cutting and fitting needed) and whoops – in went the backseat - almost before I knew it.
Just love the Rx2 interior. Yes it's all plastic and vinyl, but so neat and stylish. Was dreading putting the brightwork on and wondered if I should wait until the paint have set in a few months. But then again - heck, just went for it. No paintwork was harmed during the fitting of these gutters. ;D
Looking very nice !
Should be very proud
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Looking awesome!
Thanks! Yes, totally in :love4: with it. Just faulty earth connections to sort on the front side indicators and then start up time. Problem is we're forecast another week of rain, rain, rain, and more of the same. Anyway, promise the next picture I post will be taken outside the garage! ;D
Familiar turf to followers of this thread, but in case someone wants the short version:
And the start-up? Well, this morning had icy rain, fresh snow down to 600 masl and +5C. :-X
Christ were all melting here !
Dunno if this helps cool you down, but it'll make you feel lucky:
Sun came back on Monday. Had a nearly successful start attempt, then car went dead. After discussing matters with my chief expert, I returned today. Re-did the accelerator connection on the carb (thanks, Kevin!). Found a faulty connection on trail dizzy and a connected old condenser on the lead dizzy. Since I'm running MSD-boxes (no live current over the contact breakers), those are superfluous, and might have caused some of the interference trouble.
Also took plugs out and checked they weren't flooded. Still no luck. A brief sign of some life, then nothing. Now battery needs a proper charge overnight. Then plan is to take the plugs back out tomorrow and give them a good warming with hot air, then try again. Wish me luck!
Do you know you have a spark on every spark plug ?
I definitely had when I parked up in October. ;)
Will check again, of course.
Yup, sparks are there. Have done 90 mins of starting attempts. First no life at all, then a little sign of life in the beginning.
No choke and a few shallow pumps on the accelerator prior to start made it fire up, first on one rotor, after a few more attempts on
both. Ran nice and even and sounded healthy, but still refuses to run more than 10-15 seconds max. Initial response to throttle good, but
the third time I apply it, it doesn't go down well. Engine dies. Got as far as to nearly put it in first gear, so very-very nearly there.
Now a break for contemplation and double-checking settings with Torstein the Carb Man.
All signs of pinkering and/or interference gone, so at least that is sorted. Phew! Sounds like ignition is correctly set. Filled the tank in October, so can't believe the petrol's off yet. Although they left tank lid off for quite some time at the paint shop...
Well that's progress ! It's a fine looking machine. Get it done


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Carb settings were too lean:
Idle mixture was set at 1 full turn from bottom. Re-set at 1,5.
Idle adjust was set at 0,5 turn from bottom. Re-set at 1,5.
Once the plugs had cooled(!) engine fired up and ran for 20 sec. Died before I had time to give it some choke.
Think it would have worked.
Now battery is re-charging. Patienca amici! :D
Why do I call my Rx2 Noriaki? It's named after this living legend, also a Japanese 1972 model:
Not quite back to square one, but waiting for parts. Yep, it's that story again...
In the meantime managed to tidy up a bit in the engine room.
Finally, today, the Rx2 let out an almighty ROAR and fired up. Throttle linkage is all wrong and getting stuck, but that is less important right now. What a relief!
What's been going on? Well, the refurbished carb, gorgeous as it looked, for some reason didn't let through any fuel. So the car would only run on what I managed to feed it through the accelerator pump before staring up. Once that was burnt up, the engine died. The company kindly and promptly gave me a refund on the job. Nice as that was, it didn't help me get out driving. So it was our good Rotary Enthusiast Elves came to the rescue. I was sent a replacement carb in the mail. :great:
Eager to whack it onto the engine and hit the road, I have to admit I was more than a tad disappointed when I opened the box. What stared me in the face, was a sad Nikki corpse that looked and smelled of zombie. This (pardon my expression) choke-deprived piece of junk reduced to two-barrel function was rumored to have worked recently. It appeared, I was meant to combine the top of my "refurbished" carb with the bottom part of this decaying corpse. Overcoming an initial phase of denial and refusal, Dr Frankenstein (played here by yours truly) set to work in some kind of mad euphoria and constructed a monster from the parts, nearly suffering a couple of mental breakdown in the process. The monster that came out of this desperate effort could scare the socks off seasoned mechanics. Nonetheless, it was installed, in all its hideousness...
..and no starting attempts were made that day (Frankenstein had hit rock bottom by now, and there was no Igor there to boss around either).
First attempt drowned in fuel (which was probably the only positive aspect of the ordeal). The experiment was then put on hold while the sinister doctor tended to other matters. But then, after a few more hours of checks and adjustments, and without any great hope of success: It came ALIVE! (feel free to add a classic, mad professor laugh of your choice here)
The age of miracles made a swift return visit. Let's hope the going gets easier from here, or the Angry Villagers will soon gather and threaten to burn my garage to the ground!
;D ;D ;D I enjoyed reading that :icon_thumleft:
Glad to hear your creation has delivered life to your project :notworthy:

Good job mate
Lähetetty minun G8141 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Investigated throttle linkage closely today. I had made no mistake. Wish that was the case, because it would be easy to put right, but it turns out it is the main shaft from Nikki of the Dead that gets stuck. And with a nasty "clunk" at that. Acceleration pump linkage, I think, or perhaps even internal. Not going to try any more time-consuming transplants, so will wait for the arrival of the other monster. Getting so used to living with fingers crossed now, it isn't even a problem on the keyboard anymore... ::)
I have to say my "Frankenstein Monster" looked better today. I'm starting to see it in a more positive light. It looks even better after taking a trip out of the engine bay, going through a few more transplants from "Dry Good Looking" (throttle linkage stuff) and then being dropped back in. The tin plate beneath the carb has a few bending clips sticking out at various ends and at various angles. One of these was blocking the shaft at the front of the carb (where I didn't look), making the throttle stick. Just needed bending into an inoffensive position and everything now moves freely. The pedal even FEELS like a proper accelerator. By the time I finished this job, I needed a shower, though (thanks to Nikki of the Dead). Can't take place in the driver's seat in my scruffs and with grease up to my elbows! :nono: Also, the battery could do with a top up before I hassle it again. but everything should now be ready for another.. no, not for an attempt, for THE startup. Wish me luck! ;)
Here are a couple of pics. Top half nicely refurbished, bottom half zombie. Looks only half bad! :))
Right! Promised to post pictures of the car taken outside the garage. Today it drove out, up that steep hill with a bit of wheelspin, turned around, posed for pics, and went back in. Now the exhaust pipe is conveniently pointing towards the garage door. Most practical and a lot healthier! Today was again a smoky and stinky experience, but think I got it to run lean enough eventually. Now the mechanic idle adjustment needs tightening a little bit, and it should run on idle as well. Adjustment screw is a bit hard to get at, so will try again with a tiny screwdriver tomorrow. Noted that the car is now unwilling to have anything to do with the choke. Not sure why, but there is something odd about the choke connection: some very un-original piece-of-string patent. You can see it near the top of the carb in the above photo.
Oh, no! Turns out not all is "Hunky Dory" with the ignition either: runs only on trail now, and a bit rough at that. How the (8=X did that happen?!? So with the other carb arriving today, it's all hands on deck again. Or to make it another musical quote: "Take up thy Stethoscope (lamp) and Walk"
Oh, the joys of retro cars and especially carbs ;D
Quote from: Casey on August 18, 2021, 07:17:26 PM
Oh, the joys of retro cars and especially carbs ;D
You'll love my "new" replacement carb. I've named it "Pig Pen". :icon_porc:
I'm pretty sure it's from an FB, you might recognise it. I'll post a pic later.
Right now it is left "marinating" in preparation for a good hosing down tomorrow.
Yes! Yes!! Yes!!! YES, YES, YES!!!!
Ignition boxes ok. Just a bad connection in lead distributor. Been out for a nice spin. Running a bit rough still, but RUNNING! :) ;D :))
.
Fantastic.

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Looks amazing, glad its running. :13: :13: More that can be said for mine ..... pffft
Here's the pic I promised of Pig Pen, the spare carb. This is taken after quite a few "baths". All that oily mud has preserved it quite well!
Finally some nice weather. Cruising is not that pleasant when ignition timing and carb settings are a bit off, but got to see the new colour in proper sunshine:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210826/78ed4456fa49fd922add8d7637090db3.jpg)
Very classy
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:sign0098: - looking awesome, and glad you've got it running too :icon_thumleft:
Thanks for the support, mates! Participated in a small classic car meet today with 25-30 cars. Rx2 got plenty of attention and a nice slot next to the Barracuda. Going in for carb and ignition tuning on Monday. Fingers crossed!
Looks at home amongst the crowd


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Well, back to Monday Blues. Today my abominable creation Nikki of the Dead got the professional verdict: chronic fuel starvation. Just can't get it to run rich enough. So the Rx2 still stutters and stammers along. Not healthy at all. I suppose you shouldn't expect a rich mixture from a zombie. Stingy bastard! I might need an exorcist!
Examined Pig Pen a bit more closely (re-posting pic). Doesn't look like the big barrels open with the current settings. Makes me a bit suspicious. Worse is all the extra gadgets: what could I get rid of, and what would I have to live with? Not sure I can cram it in with all that bulky stuff on it. 🤔
I can feel my thoughts drifting towards a Holley conversion set (although, if I understood Clive correctly, they don't fit twin dizzy 12As), throttle bodies (can they be made to fit the original intake? Does anybody know?) 🤔🤔, 13B atmo swap (now hold your horses!).. But heck. Could it be that difficult to make the car run on a 4bbl Nikki? 🤔🤔🤔 That's what it's built for and it did run (if not optimally) on the old FB carb, before it was sent off to that disastrous refurbishment.
Inlet-to-carb gasket has a channel connecting the two main barrels. What if the older carb base requires a complete seal between the barrels?
Would this not cause it to run too lean? 🤔
I'd better start working on the reconditioned carb base and see if I can find the fault. That failing, I need to source/make a new inlet-to-carb gasket without that channel...
Bottom of refurbished carb dismantled. Bottom gasket changed (it was a bit torn here and there), all vacuum vents checked and re-blocked up.
Frankenstein Monster de-Frankensteined: Dismantled, exit
Nikki of the Dead bottom end, refurbished top re-joined with its refurbished bottom bit, then whacked onto the inlet manifold with new gaskets. Connected to fuel lines, choke and throttle wires.
And...? First nothing, then more nothing up until the seventh "just-one-more-try". Then this:
Some carb portraits for the record. It's been a slow rollercoaster ride, but a rollercoaster ride all the same. What a delight to work on the refurbished parts! I even began to enjoy the design. Proper Steam Punk with those little windows. ;D
I seem to be unconsciously drawn to extremes. Now the carb runs way too rich. But good news first: Did a good 40 mile drive in the wet. :13: Once the car was properly warm, I turned the little adjustment screw from 2,5 turns down to 1,0 turns out. When I then adjusted the big mix screw a 3/4 turn out, revs on idle went up 500 rpm. I take that as a good sign for now. We'll see how that affects tomorrows cold* start.
*Cold as in nearly freezing: we have +7C and fresh snow on the mountain tops. :-X
Well, instead of 1850 km in the Rx2, I covered twice the distance in the workhorse (Prius). 45 hours of driving in total, most of them in the rain. Observed on the way: 1 black FD, one blue Rx4, one silver FB, one blue 4-door 818. Strangely not so many other classic cars. The Prius was made to work as a Mazda mule, carrying two 4-barrel carbs (yes, Prius + 2 big carbs = great velocity :))) and a R100 radiator grille down south and returning with one 1971 Rx2 coupé right-hand-side door and a reconditioned carb (formerly known as Pig Pen, now reincarnated as Snow White).
"The Prius was made to work as a Mazda mule"
Definatly the best reason I have ever heard for owning a Prius ;D ;D ;D
Finally, it looks like the end of the carb trouble is in sight. A short recap:
I have been through:
1) Total fuel starvation (carb 1)
2) Too lean / fuel starvation light (carb 1/carb 2)
3) Uneven and too rich idle + no top end ooomph (carb 1)
4) Floods (carb 3)
This time I tried to combine top of carb 1 with base of carb3. And I have been for a good drive, the best in ages!
Still some adjustment issues to sort, but no flat spots or obvious faults detected. :occasion14:
Really nice video of your car, enjoyed that :great:
It was so windy on the day i did that video, the beautiful twin-dizzy sound simply blew away. Here's a sound sample to make up for it:
Our roads might be bumpy, but not a lot of traffic encountered on the flight up and down the valleys today. 260 trouble-free kms of pure joy. :love4:
Great news and progress - well done for persevering with solving the carb problems :13:
Still working on cleaning up my 4 barrel Nikki:
Looking good! We might need a "Nikki of the week" thread for this one! :sign0098:
MoT went reasonably well. Brakes stuck on the front (mechanic had to be more heavy-footed than me, I suppose), horn works only when button is being dismantled or reassembled (fault finding a bit nerve-racking and the neighbours are not best pleased), and there's some earth connection problem on the indicators. Should be manageable.
MoT passed! ;D ;D ;D
Undersealing next.
Wooohooo, good news on MOT :13:
Last Sunday Noriaki went in for undersealing. A nice rural drive of some 45 miles away. Monday reports ticked in that RUST :eek: had been found and sand blasting was needed. So, the spa and tar mask resort stay was extended and expanded to include peeling as well. Company sorted this brilliantly and did a great job. Car was not best pleased, though. Apparently, the workmen made a mess of the start up, so it flooded. And when they brought in the battery booster, the main fuse for the ignition went. So picking the car up became a full exam in de-flooding, heating plugs and firing up. Driving home was far from the magic carpet ride of getting there. Noriaki was :angry5: and grumpy and acting up a bit (not willing to pull properly uphill). Now facing a big job of cleaning up the engine bay. Hopefully, whatever faults have popped up during the ordeal/treatment can be put right as part of the tidying up. Most importantly, car is now painted and rust proofed. Only exhaust system to replace now. The rest qualifies as tinkering & detailing.
A bit of a setback but, hopefully, easy to put right, given you had a good journey to the "Spa and Tar" place.
Good to know they found and dealt with the rust they discovered though!
The messy engine bay. That s**te got absolutely everywhere. And it sticks, too. Just gotta roll up those sleeves tomorrow and get on with it. ::)
First of the small winter projects: replacing the lost spare wheel. Got hold of a nice, straight rim. Surface rust was pretty bad, so sent it in for sandblasting and priming. Now it's in the paint shop and will come back nice and satin black, hopefully. I went for satin black as per original. The other rims are currently some form of charcoal metallic. Once that paint starts wearing out, I'll repaint them satin black, too, of course.
Ahh! Nice to have a tidy engine bay again. :)
I have been thinking a bit about those "dog-eared" bonnet corners. And I remembered my MX5 NA pop-up headlamp covers: If they have sagged, put on a pair of gloves and bend them gently back into position. I thought the same might work for the Rx2 bonnet – and it did! Problem solved!
I suppose over the years the bonnet has been lifted by the corners a few hundred times. Just needed a re-set.
Working abroad is a welcome change, but the garage is now 2000 miles away, so the Rx-2 project is temporarily put on hold. Next thing that will happen is to sort the badges out (as some of you might have suspected after reading my half-rant in the pic-of-the-day thread) ;)
When it comes to those antelope badges on the c-post, I can't make my mind up which to choose. The 1972-model came with Series II antelopes. They are bigger than the neat little blue antelopes on the 1971-models. The latter are much nicer, but the "heffalump-sized" ones are original on my car. So it's a case of purism vs aesthetics. I'm listing towards aesthetics. Any strong opinions out there? Place your vote!
(The photos below are different scale, of course, the antelope heads are roughly the same size, but the circle is wider on the Series II ones)
OK, being pedantic, if it's right on a change over year, very few people are ever going to know if you have the wrong badge on.
If the same model came with both, unless you told people, they will never know the difference.
So in other words, fit the one you prefer and done with ;).
Well spoken! I guess a set of big fat Capella antelopes will be coming up for sale soon. ;D
I remember being transfixed by that blue antelope emblem at the age of 4.
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on February 25, 2022, 05:54:52 PM
Well spoken! I guess a set of big fat Capella antelopes will be coming up for sale soon. ;D
I remember being transfixed by that blue antelope emblem at the age of 4.
You have answered your own question :great:
Right. Back to those badges. Did some first experiments today. Think I got it more or less right on the C-pillars and the front wings. The "Coupé" badge probably needs to come down a few millimeters, though. The recipes for success are as follows:
C-pillar: a) extend the line of the gutter. b) extent the line of the lower rear side window trim. c) Mark the point where these two meet with a vertical piece of tape. The center of the badge goes onto the top line with the whole emblem in front of the vertical one. Simple as that.
Front wing: A bit more tricky. Most cars have the badges too high up. I'd like to go slightly below the original. A common fault is to forget that the left and right badges are identical. They have to be aligned to the border of the red center, not the outer edge. Otherwise the position on the car's left will be different from that on the car's right. Clear as mud... You'll see this when I make a video one day. I take the rear corner of the bonnet as starting point for the vertical line. The badge goes behind this one. For the line aligning the top of the badge, I chose to go 135 mm up from the sill trim strip.
Boot lid: I think got it in principle, but a minor adjustment needed. a) The tricky bit is to get the angle right, so I start by taping up the line between the two tappets on the back of the badge (I have cut these off, since I don't want to drill any holes in the boot lid). This is the correct horizontal line. b) Mark the horizontal line along the boot. Easier if you mark the top of the Mazda emblem in the middle, so you can see that they are nice and parallel. c) Mark the vertical line along the boot lid edge. d) Now the badge is easy to get in the right position. Only the distance from the lower end is a bit of a guess.
Ooooo final touches



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I really do admire the thought that has gone into these badges to get them right.
I do have a little saying that "perfection takes a little longer" certainly applies in this case :great:
Thought maybe this picture would help for badges
THAT looks just right! Thanks, Clive! :great:
Yup. After a lot of tape and measuring and head-scratching, I think I got it pretty much as I wanted it. Some camera angles still don't do it justice (and the second pic is wonky). Or perhaps it's just my crosseyed and astigmatic vision... ::)
And now the video! That will be the last of my badge obsessions posts for a while. ;)
I have a saying "Perfection takes a little longer" so take your time to get it how you want it :great:
Well put! As you can see, I ended up with the "fat" antelopes anyway. It was a budget matter. The badges aren't all that expensive, but the postage from Australia is ludicrous. So either I had to wait until I order a big batch of parts, or i had to do with what I got.
One obsession fed. Now enter the
stripe obsession topic. This is what it should look like:
But should it be 1) paint, 2) vinyl or 3) foil?
Foil costs 400 quid and lasts what: 6-8 years?
New level of worries.
Noriaki's original 12A Twin Distributor engine was rebuilt about 20,000 kms ago, at 48,000 km. Apparently it had overheated. The [add appropriate adjective here] guys who did the job, fitted Rx7 pistons and seals ::) A minor problem with this is that the ignition timing is altered. The real cause for worry is that pre-1974 engines did not get Mazda's SIP (sheetmetal insert process) treatment. So the steel apex seals from the Rx7 are too hard for the casings and are bound to create excessive wear.
I really should go back to original spec rotors and 6mm carbon apex seals. It's a real pain, since I have to pick the engine apart. I just got the car ready for some driving, so I should probably start by sourcing a replacement engine. Hopefully, that should give me time to have the 12A rebuilt to original spec (and find the dosh for it!).
As far as I understand, the Rx2 gearbox is not compatible with newer 12As, so I might as well look for a complete drivetrain from a SA22C or FB.
That raises its own questions: will the Rx7 12A and 5-speed box slot in the Rx2 easily, or are mods required? To put it mildly: a trouble-free ride and future return to original spec would be NICE! Tips, hints and advice on all aspects of these challenges most welcome!
Spare wheel rim came back from the paint shop yesterday.
One satin black wheel to compete with Jamie's set. ;)
Working on your car from 2000 miles away is challenging, so sorry about the lack of updates. However, this does not mean that the age of miracles is entirely over. Our very own Indiana Joneses have been active. Last weekend a barn find was collected in the high north. One Rx2 and one 616 Coupé + a pile of parts and possibly a twin-dizzy 12A for Noriaki. The Rx2 has roof damage and comes with a spare roof. The 616 has rust issues. The buyer's plan is to build one car out of the two. (No, sorry, the boat is not part of the deal).
Been to see Noriaki today. First time in 4 months. Front breaks hanging again, so some TLC needed. Brought new plugs and a spare wheel to (the) boot. Battery charged. The go-faster stripes will have to wait for next year (the foil guys are too busy atm), but hopefully we will get out for a wee drive or two before long. ;)
Not so much new to tell, but got to test out my new camera... ;)
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on September 04, 2022, 05:15:15 PM
Not so much new to tell, but got to test out my new camera... ;)
What I admire most is your ability not to swear and cuss coz it won't start lol
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On a serious note, lovely car !
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Quote from: Jamie R on September 04, 2022, 05:24:14 PM
What I admire most is your ability not to swear and cuss coz it won't start lol
I edited that bit out :))
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on September 04, 2022, 08:13:43 PM
Quote from: Jamie R on September 04, 2022, 05:24:14 PM
What I admire most is your ability not to swear and cuss coz it won't start lol
I edited that bit out :))
Lol why don't I believe you. I get the impression you're more calmer personality
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Very kind of you. I can assure you there are limits, beyond which the danger of garage rage increases considerably. Cortina and Nikki carbs are known to have crossed said limit on occasion. :angry5:
Thank you for posting this up, I enjoyed that :great:
Doesn't look like playlists can be uploaded. But while Malcolm is working hard on a patch to bring the full-url YT videos alive, here are the nine Noriaki video links:
Part I – a restoration project after all
Part II – full paint job
Part III – Assembling
Part IV – First trip out of garage
Part V – Cruising
Part VI – The sound!
Part VII – Drive up and down the Tamok valley
Part VIII – Badge guide
Part IX – Slow progress
It has just been decided by the Greater Powers of All Things Rotary: Noriaki is having a brand new 12A twin-distributor engine, professionally built to standard spec. Brand new NOS houses and the whole lot. Plan is to install the new wonder next spring. We'll be joining your New Engine Club, Clive, by the looks of it. ;)
Wow, everyone's getting new engines ;D
Great news!
Finally something happening. Unboxed a nice NOS part today. :)
Wow, that was a lucky find :great:
Yep! Might have to make another lucky find soon. Noriaki should have the hi-power 130 bhp exhaust manifold, but I suspect he has been fitted with the lo-power one. Hard to see from the image and the heat shield masks it nicely from above. Any thoughts?
Always learning, never seen one of those before and its genuine Mazda :great:
It's nearly three years since I got Noriaki. And since Malcolm has just made me Po8 LauREate, I suppose I should mark the occasion with another limREick:
The car salesman fit the cliché
And his methods were rather outré
But from under the trash
And clutter and stash
Emerged a Capella Coupé
Just dug my way in to the garage, got a new and more powerful battery. So soon, soon, some progress is to be expected. Btw: this is the kind of exhaust manifold I'm looking for. Anyone seen one, please give us a shout!
Found this pic form when Noriaki was two-tone (or rather multi-tone) orange after that failed attempt at a partial paintjob. And, of course, it inspired another limREick:
A partial paintjob seemed within range
But that plan was soon bound to change
A scream sounded "Yikes!"
It was car-painter Mike's
He just found the fifth shade of orange
Freed the front brakes again today. Let's hope they don't get stuck again at first opportunity. The tie-rod end rubbers caught my eye. Looked a bit wonky. Mildly speaking, they were! Fell apart at the slightest touch, so new hardware ordered. The security clips on the left-hand-side caliper locking block were missing, too. Could have made a video, but this was a rather cramped and messy job and not very aesthetically pleasing to watch, so I dropped it. ;)
The joys of owning a classic car :) :))
I spent a very unpleasant few hours today on my back under KIIMI 3 attending to some surface rust whilst I have the fuel tank out (fuel sender replacement. Wire- wheeling (rust dust :( ), de-greasing and metal prep treatment - all not nice when you are underneath the car. Not a surprise than I didn't take any photos of this messy process.
Thankfully, all ready for 2 coats of POR15 tomorrow :icon_thumleft:
Well done! I'm planning to spend some time in petrol fumes, too. Next, I'm emptying the tank of old fuel and filling it up with proper non-ethanol stuff (yep, we can still get it from one pump in town!). Then the new battery goes in – 680 amps on tap for the starter, compared to 480 in the old battery (no wonder it was difficult to get the thing fired up!). Turned out the battery that came with the car was meant for the solar panel @ the cabin, not for 12A starting procedures. ::)
A shady dude nicknamed Robberhouse
Deserves a good whack with a rubber hose
He stuffed the Rx-2
With boom boxes, damp foam, and glue.
Well, that's how the story goes!
You think he'd choose the right battery?
Even that would be flattery!
The plug leads were swapped
The carpets badly cropped
He'd left it all heading for tattery
Did you know that Front 242 were Mazda fans? Bet you didn't! :D
Start up successful!
The weather just can't decide if it's still February of not, so some time for minor tinkering in the meantime. Another little parcel just arrived from Gunleiv. The tie-rod rubbers were so tired, they decided to evaporate during the steam wash before undersealing. Got some new tie rod ends and rubbers, but they'll have to wait until I can get the car on a proper lift (and an appointment for adjustment to go with it)
The weather had spoken: It had to happen on that day or not at all. So after nearly 20 months of storage, Noriaki hit the road for a 466-mile journey! A bit like signing a heart patient up for a marathon, but he got there in good style, with flair and on schedule:
The trip started with a fright or two, learning how to handle The Mother of All Flatspots going up the hills. Thankfully things got gradually more enjoyable and even the Nightmare Mørsvikbotn Tunnel (dark, narrow and 4,5 km of 7% rise) went with a roar in 3rd. I'm not sure heart patients should drink quite that much, though. Noriaki gulped down a hundred litres of petrol. No wonder he looks so casually pleased with himself after arrival... We'll have a serious talk about those drinking habits soon! :))
Left Noriaki in the "heart surgery unit". He's being looked after by the very best doctors available...
Excellent story, thankyou.
Still no news updates from the heart surgeons. Meanwhile, a beer in the hot sun to shorten the wait... :sunny: Cheers! :occasion14:
Great story and glad to see you're getting some sun too :occasion14:
Noriaki's engine is out and has been thoroughly examined. And declared utterly dead and gone.
The pathologist's report holds some interesting findings. Firstly, the Rx7 rotors had been fitted with carbon seals, which sort of explains why the thing lasted 25,000 kms in the first place. One of the rotor housings had the chrome layer peeling off anyway, so that one is shot.
However, whoever did the job had left out a few other essentials: The tensioner for the chain that drives the oil-pump was missing, so the chain had been left chipping away at the eccentric shaft counterweight, causing severe damage. Six of the seals for the oil and water channels were missing, so coolant had seeped into the oil and into the combustion chambers. Also, one of the distributors had begun shaking itself to pieces, which might explain the wild backfiring going up the last tunnel. Was lucky it held together for those last 466 miles! ::)
Well, may the cursed Frankenstein Engine rest in pieces. The new twin-dizzy 12A goes in tomorrow! :great:
Wow. Sounds like you had some luck on that drive. I thought frankenstein engines was a honda thing but clearly there have been interlopers in the rotary scene
The new engine is in and looking good. Only looking this far, because one of the ignition boxes decided to give up on us. Upstart delayed until new part arrives. Thanks to Totte for all the hard work. :sign0098:
...apparently my engine builder's hard work isn't over just yet. Among the parts transferred from the old engine, there seems to have been a 10A pulley with the wrong timing marks! And there are carb issues and other things to sort. But on the upside, Noriaki is getting out for test drives, being tuned in, run in, and is recovering steadily. Fingers crossed. I'm ready to fly down and pick him up as soon I get that call! :)
Great news to hear Noriaki is now up and running :sign0098:
Pleased you getting somewhere with the car now.
Noriaki is still in s-l-o-w recovery. His carb still refuses to work optimally and the doctors are reluctant to release him from the ward. The owner's withdrawal effects are getting terrible. The Pack Mule is benefiting from the extra wait, getting fully refurbished in the meantime. Desperate times, desperate measures... :))
Hmmmmm, whats the issue with the carb, not something like float level is it ?
Runs way too rich on idle, because the stage 2 butterflies won't shut properly. Looks like carb sucks in extra fuel from over there when car is idling. So question is how to make them shut. Tried a number of carbs and parts, but problem prevails... >:D
Thought I'd might as well restore the original grille and emblem while I was waiting. And when that was ready, the long-awaited phone call came in. So more long distance Rx2-driving next week. :great:
Good to hear the carb issues are sorted
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on August 01, 2023, 06:42:13 PMRuns way too rich on idle, because the stage 2 butterflies won't shut properly. Looks like carb sucks in extra fuel from over there when car is idling. So question is how to make them shut. Tried a number of carbs and parts, but problem prevails... >:D
That should not make it run rich, just a faster tickover.
It's so long ago, without checking my own car next week I cant tell you if the butterfly idle is set up on the primary's or the secondarys.
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 28, 2023, 07:33:28 PMNoriaki's engine is out and has been thoroughly examined. And declared utterly dead and gone.
The pathologist's report holds some interesting findings. Firstly, the Rx7 rotors had been fitted with carbon seals, which sort of explains why the thing lasted 25,000 kms in the first place. One of the rotor housings had the chrome layer peeling off anyway, so that one is shot.
However, whoever did the job had left out a few other essentials: The tensioner for the chain that drives the oil-pump was missing, so the chain had been left chipping away at the eccentric shaft counterweight, causing severe damage. Six of the seals for the oil and water channels were missing, so coolant had seeped into the oil and into the combustion chambers. Also, one of the distributors had begun shaking itself to pieces, which might explain the wild backfiring going up the last tunnel. Was lucky it held together for those last 466 miles! ::)
Well, may the cursed Frankenstein Engine rest in pieces. The new twin-dizzy 12A goes in tomorrow! :great:
Wow, I was going to ask who rebuilt this and put forward names of some usual suspects, but as this is a family show, we can Iill-afford slanderous content.
Hope you're keeping well old bean?
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Quote from: Eccentric shaft on August 01, 2023, 06:42:13 PMRuns way too rich on idle, because the stage 2 butterflies won't shut properly. Looks like carb sucks in extra fuel from over there when car is idling. So question is how to make them shut. Tried a number of carbs and parts, but problem prevails... >:D
Crikey I hope I have better luck, I've stripped that much off the carb, converted to mechanical secondaries, Im amazed it even bolts on, there are so few parts
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Wow, I'm a bit behind with posting. Too many things have gone on. Just back from a 600 mile drive with Noriaki in strong winds and (the final 3 hours) pouring rain. The new engine is in and MAN does it pull! And, and, and... Will take a few posts to cover it all. Let's start with this:
Today, Noriaki got a proper wash for the first time since 2020 (yes, really!). And stripes (DIY job by Yours Eccentric), and a good wax and polish +++. In short, he's looking his good old handsome self again!
Beautiful machine buddy ! glad its running well :sign0098:
So pleased to see this wonderful RX-2 is running correctly for you.
Thanks, good rotary people! You have certainly done your parts on this journey! Huge thanks to Totte for the engine build and all the extra work on the carb. We'll need to get hold of a good original carb to get the idle optimal. And there's a few more details to sort, but it runs and roars and pulls like an express train. Very pleased! Note that custom made exhaust manifold. The very skilled welder did the job for free. Thanks to all the wonderful people (Mazda people and others)! :sign0098:
PS: The internals of that replacement muffler melted on the way home! Noriaki now has a thundering bass. Suppose he has a lot to compensate for, having been silenced for so long :)) :)) :))
Great news! Well done to everyone involved in fixing Noriaki :13:
Noriaki paid a visit to the Arctic Circle Raceway on the way home. There were people around, but they hid well. Too windy to ask for a quick test lap anyway. Hopefully, there will be other chances once the front suspension has been upgraded (yep, that's next on the list).
Local car show was on today. Modified 50s Cadillac took the best car of show, but Noriaki got a nice pile of votes, too. ;)
Late one night a couple of weeks ago, an ad came up. NOS front bumper and grille. I did not hesitate! Parts have been in a loft for 30 years. Now the former Mazda employee was clearing up. So now Noriaki has a brand new NOS front bumper on. And I have a brand new NOS radiator grille to spare. Had an exchange with the seller, and now he bought himself a 1971 616 coupé. Sometimes attempts at clearing out leads to new purchases instead! :))
Good find Yngvar. I wonder if he has any RX-4 parts hiding somewhere. ::)
Will keep my peepers open, Clive. Provided they are shared with the 929 HT, there's a chance parts may show up. Last year a batch of 20 NOS bumper sections came up for sale, but it was all or nothing and bumpers for at least 6 different Mazda models. You'd need a warehouse to store it all! ::) I think there were rear bumper pieces for the 616/Rx2 in the pile, but there are at least 3 versions of those. Plus, I'd have to open a shop! :))
Btw: isn't this what you call a "bumper crop"? :D
I cant recognise any of those at all ???
Time to get out of 2nd! ;D
Very nice video Yngvar, it really is a wonderful car.
Thanks, Clive. Not quite Rx4 level yet, but not bad considering that, when I recorded this in early August, the car hadn't had a wash since 2020... ;)
MoT first thing on Monday morning. Fixed some electric gremlins today. Fingers crossed the old tie-rod ends will pass. I'm planning a full suspension upgrade this winter. Don't want to have to start on that just yet...
Nine two's! :-[
Now, frankly, a couple of these were expected, but could have done without the hanging brakes (a trick Noriaki decided to perform again specially for MoT day after a trouble-free summer). And the oil leak. I knew tie-rods were shot. Steering box adjustment shouldn't be too much of a hassle, I hope. We'll, this means roll-up-sleeves-time for the owner, up-on-stands-time for Noriaki...
So did you get a pass on the MOT ?
Ah, sorry, I forgot our (EU-style) system is a bit different from yours. Well, I passed as in I was allowed to drive the car home and have not (yet) been banned from using it in traffic. I have to get it sorted by the 29th, though - or else! :nono:
1 = minor fault: repair asap, or words of your sinking standards may soon begin to spread. :-X
2 = major fault: repair asap and show car to inspector within the next 4 weeks. Fail to do so, and you're car will no longer be considered road legal. :-[
3 = safety hazard: your car is not found road legal. Trailer or recovery truck needed if you still want it (if it weren't for the negative environmental impact, you'd probably be chained to its engine and dropped in the sea) :eek:
Our 2s were:
–Headlamp adjustment – Hmmm, untouched since the same garage last adjusted them ::)
–Right hand side reverse light not working (yes, that's a 2!)
–Brakes sticking right front and left rear
–Both tie rod ends worn out
–Both tie rod end rubber gaiters missing
–Both ball joint rubber gaiters missing
–Too much steering wheel play (a fraction under half a mile)
–Oil leak @ oil metering pump
–Water leak @ front heater-to-rad hose
Garage floor calling...
It might be autumn, but springs are coming! ;)
Fixed five of the nine twos. Just tie-rods and gaiters to go.
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on September 08, 2023, 07:32:45 PMIt might be autumn, but springs are coming! ;)
:)) :)) :))
Very nice!
I'm impressed you can still get those for such an old girl

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If you buy the struts, be careful as i'm sure the the front struts on an FB are taller.
Front dampers are inserts for original struts. All four are Rx2 spec. Springs are 1,5" lower and a bit stiffer. Not sure I want that on our bumpy roads, so will keep original springs as a backup. Anyway, with the steering box tightened up, the car is already SO much better to drive.
In 1972 this was a medium-sized car. Or was it?!? :))
This shows how America made such ugly cars in the 80's and how Japan stole the market with such pretty cars
Quote from: clive on September 10, 2023, 07:52:38 AMThis shows how America made such ugly cars in the 80's and how Japan stole the market with such pretty cars
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/f9411d50f25eaae3336ca5c6cae02ab9.jpg)
I really don't know what you mean Clive

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Springs arrived
Shiny new bits
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Make mine look decidedly grubby


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230913/cc794cfb3ecbfb9a409a2a2cd24f0a45.jpg)
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Getting those pin stripes right:
Noriaki posing with Stig (or was it the other way around?). This is the authentic Stig, mind you, not any of those Top Gear imposters. :nono:
Noriaki took us out for a mountain hike & in return got his second wash in 3 years! He'll get spoiled at this rate.
Oh no!!!! Where are the wheels??? ??? ??? ???
Oh, dear! It's worse than missing wheels. The struts are on the loose! :eek:
One more step on the way. Now waiting for more parts. All (or most of) the bushes need changing & this is a good opportunity to get it all done in one go. Although, if those 1,5" lowered springs are too hard, I might put the originals back on again.
Videos are lagging behind a bit, but latest NOS find is worth recapturing!
Wow, wonder where he found NOS like that ?
It's amazing what former Mazda employees have been holding on to. We have a lot to thank former Mazda employees for. :notworthy:
What a great find, after all these years, NOS parts like that just turn up :icon_thumleft:
Slo-owly piecing it together. meanwhile it's already sleeting horizontally at +2C. Plenty of frost on the long term forecast and the dreaded salt trucks will be out any time now... ::)
Got all the most important rubber parts, but some of the bushes I received were the wrong size. Fortunately the old ones were in surprisingly good nick and could be kept.
Oh that's chilly - waiting our long awaited uk summer weekend of 26 degrees
Lowered 1,5" on the front now. Looks so right, you wouldn't guess it's not factory. :D
This ride height was only available in the Japanese domestic market (Sport and GS II models).
Went back to the "dentist's" today. Seems I'd cured only 7 out of 9 faults. Unfortunately, Noriaki still brakes unevenly. I wouldn't have noticed, I don't use the middle pedal much :))
But have to overhaul those calipers over winter. That and some fresh brake fluid should do the trick, hopefully.
The other fault is a mystery of Hercule Poirot proportions: Water leak. From under the clutch housing on the right-hand side. There ARE no water hoses on that side of the engine. :dontknow:
Only reservoir that side is the windshield washer bottle, but that feels completely dry. The hoses for the heater are on the left-hand side of the engine bay and they both feel bone dry as well. And radiator water level looks ok, too. So no clue what is going on. Any ideas anyone?
An elderly American lady tourist came walking past today:
–What's that you got in the garage, is it a Dodge?
I told her yes, my Charger R/T shrunk in the car wash. :D
Last spin of the season yesterday. First frost today. New stance looks good, just have to drop the rear to the same level now.
Looks OK as it it is :great: :great: :great:
Perhaps, but when driving it feels more like this:
Noriaki in the snow (ok, then: slush). No regular feature. Going back up on stands now.
Great progress, and looking really good - liking the lower front end :sign0098:
Can't help with advice on the curious water leak, very odd!
The temperatures here plummeted last weekend, but not as bad as your temps! We had a very welcome warm September and early October, so can't complain.
BTW, Kimi 3 booked in for MOT tomorrow. Not expecting any issues, but with the age of these cars, you never know what I might have missed..... Fingers crossed....
Best of luck tomorrow! I'm sure Kimi 3 will sail through (but, yes, fingers crossed just in case). :great:
Rear struts are off. A reminder that the sophisticated Rx2 was the only rwd non-leaf-sprung rotary Mazda before the Rx7. You often hear that the Savanna Rx3 platform formed the basis for the Savanna Rx7 (SA22C), but that did not include the rear suspension. ;)
Excellent suspension set up, very similar to the Toyota Starlet
That's right. Big brother been out copying again. ;)
If it wasn't for all the rally footage, you'd easily forget the Starlet was rear wheel drive until 1984.
Ready to go back on:
There we are: Noriaki sits lower on the tyre protectors now than he did on the floor a few weeks ago.
Added an old pic below for comparison. :)
Parcel came from Riggs in Canada today. New Nikki Narratives to follow at some point. Hopefully a short and happy story this time. This carb is from an Rx2, so fingers crossed it works as it should and allows Noriaki to idle calmly and decently...
Just received this. A period ad from the exact same car dealer who first owned Noriaki. Cheeky use of the Rx500, btw! :D
It proudly announces "New Mazda dealership: Øens Auto A/S" with a period-correct 3-digit phone number!
"There's always a Mazda for your needs and in your price range"
And this is Noriaki back in the day. Thanks to the first owner's grandson for the pic. :great:
Looks like we got the stripes and C-post badge just right.
Wow, great to see a pic of the car from so far back :icon_thumleft:
Quote from: Casey on February 05, 2024, 08:45:12 PMWow, great to see a pic of the car from so far back :icon_thumleft:
You're welcome. Yes, much nicer than the other pic I was sent, where Noriaki is lying with all four wheels in the air. I had to promise not to share that one, though, so I won't. ;)
:)) :)) :))
Slow progress is better than no progress, or so they say. The brake calipers have been in the "deep fat fryer" and are slowly being painted and put back together. Hopefully this will sort the sticking brakes issue and make sure Noriaki stops evenly.
Nice work, they are coming along well. I find refreshing brake calipers to be very satisfying, but can be hard work!
Ready to go back on! Needed two pairs of hands to get those seals and boots right. Nice to have some expert guidance from an old mate.
Dropped Noriaki down on his wheels before I left the garage yesterday. Open the gate again today and... Where the heck is he?!? ???
Ah, down THERE you are! Just can't get used to that new, low stance. :D
Nice work :icon_thumleft:
Thanks. Now fingers crossed for mot pass. In the meantime, some new shoes will soon be needed. But what to go for? The white striped option is tempting, but choice is limited. Vitour (anybody heard of that make?) have a striped one in 185/70 and Nankang a similar one in 185/80. Current tyres are 185/70. 🤔
Before and After. This has made a massive difference. Worth every penny. Noriaki handles like a dream! Not to mention the looks! :great:
Out of the garage on the new springs, then back in for fresh oil/oil filter, new coolant and putting some bling back on the radiator grille. Next is a bit of "make up" front and back. More about that later. And, of course, the MoT looming end of next week. If all goes well, the season should finally be opened! :great:
Those orange semi-circles between the rear lamps and back panel have been annoying me for some time. Applied some "eyeliner" today. A temporary measure. Will re-do this properly next time the lights are coming off, but it will do for now.
It's all the small details that make all the difference :icon_thumleft:
True, true. :great:
Looks a lot better now. Also "deleted" the last orange-coloured bits behind the oil cooler air intakes. Much tidier. And a full wash and polish does good, too, after a winter of dusty storage. ;)
Fingers crossed for tomorrow...
Brilliant, she looks gorgeous and now officially back on the road - great job :love4: :sign0098:
A time-machine shot. Funny how some pics bring back the 1970s :D
Poster for the next upcoming 2-minute film epic. With some wheels rolling for a change.
Of course, Noriaki's left headlamp bulb chose to retire on the occasion... ::)
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on June 07, 2024, 09:18:12 AMPoster for the next upcoming 2-minute film epic. With some wheels rolling for a change.
Of course, Noriaki's left headlamp bulb chose to retire on the occasion... ::)
Never mind the head lamp, it a great picture.
Quote from: clive on June 10, 2024, 09:58:44 AMNever mind the head lamp, it a great picture.
That sounds like a good title for a rock album! :))
No, the annoying bit was that the headlamp was one of those 9 mot fails. Now sorted (again) of course.
And here's the vid:
Thanks for that. Lisa will put it up on MRC Face Book.
Hanging out with old compatriots ;)
OK, I give up, is it an early Toyota ?
It's the original Datsun Bluebird. The Toyota Corona was the one with the wedge-shaped front. ;)
Here's more from the event. Great variation, so much more to guess about. :D
The Nikki epic continues ::)
The Nikki Saga continues - good luck :13:
New shoes! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kq9JoL0MNM)
So immaculate and not just the tyres :great: .
Plan is to immaculate 470 kms south to Lofoten tomorrow to meet up with the Northern Rotaries gang from err.. from the south of the North. ::) They get away with 350 kms and a serious ferry ride. If all goes well, there will be posts, pics and vids on this forum soon. Probably also if it doesn't. :D
There will be no less than two Eunos Cosmos and one HB Cosmo, and that's only half of the rotaries expected.
All went well. 522kms down, 472kms back & Noriaki was super smooth on his fresh tyres. Still some carb splutters, but a great success. Have too much material, so will be making videos for days. Here's the first, and a sneak peek (pic) of the record rotary turn-out: 7 cars (a two, two sevens, an eight and three Cosmos)
As promised: More from Lofoten:
And guess what showed up on day 2, Jamie: the MB diesel-powered '58 Zephyr. Great noise!
(No, not the shiny one)
Drives after dark signal the end of a great season is nigh...
The 6th Nikki from Riggs has been cleaned and rebuilt by my engine builder. Exciting times when it arrives!
"Capella" is supposed to be a star constellation, right? :D
Christine's success last weekend must have inspired Noriaki. Fitted the refurbished Nikki from a Canadian Rx-3, modified to mechanical stage 2. And crikey charley! We very nearly lifted off the face of the planet! 😃 Noriaki has never been in better shape. Unfortunately this happens as snow is falling and hibernation time is looming. But this is very promising for next season! :great: :great: :great:
Last sun rays of the season hit Noriaki today. Now he'll be cozy in the garage on his tyre protectors until May 2025. Plenty of little jobs to do over winter. The new carb needs to learn how to run leaner, the temp sender unit needs replacing, some finishing of various parts in the engine bay needs doing. And then the interior (starting with the dash). But first he'll be getting ready for the long winter sleep. :sleepy:
Familiar with those nightmares, where you find yourself thrown back in time to see all your hard work undone? 😱
Here's a little post-halloween horror story of exactly that kind:
Horror story maybe but you sorted everything and now have a wonderful car. Well done :great:
Good point! And thanks to the MCR members for your part in this success story! :sign0098:
Just need a straight mix adjustment screw now (see the wonky one below), and the 12A might finally run nice and lean, too. Have one on the way from Canada. We'll soon see what it's like. ;)
Brilliant video, showing just a small part of the magnificent effort you have made to bring this car up to pristine condition :13:
Turning to the positive for 2025. Here's some relaxed twin-dizzy cruising on Arctic C-roads. Happy new year! :occasion14:
Thanks for that, pleased it's now running great.
Happy New Year.
Lovely road and scenery :13:
Glad to see your car is running well too :icon_thumleft:
Finally found something to plug the hole in Noriaki's dashboard.
Oooh, that is awesome. Classic radio, in good condition too :icon_thumleft:
Arctic Rotary Season opened today! :great:
Radio installed. Bracket needed some paint, and two holes on the panel below needed filling with pull switches. Found some with the right look. Now it's looking great. Not doing much, though. Don't have speakers yet. Much prefer listening to the twin dizzy soundtrack! :))
The Rx3 Nikki was finally put to a proper test. And it works!
Happy Rotary Holidays!
Have a few tiny projects planned, but first and foremost Noriaki is getting to stretch his legs. ;)
This improvement made the rear bumper look even more sorry for itself...
Nice - TBH, in the video, the original surrounds (andthe bumper) look very good anyway. But, newer is always shinier :notworthy:
Thanks! Everything looks better in the movies ;D
Modern digital camera tech's playing its tricks here. The old surrounds badly need re-chroming. Surface of the indicator ones is like 1000-grit sand paper.
More small jobs ticked off. Put back the rear lamp reflectors so the reversing lights don't light up with the main/brake lights. Now lamps have the correct half moon shape when lit. Tidied up the rear lamp wiring. Gave the brake master cylinder a coat of hammerite & with that removed one of several engine-bay eyesores. Adjusted the window winders (don't get me started on the door card clips :angry5: – Mazda's worst patent ever?). Began prepping for the dash crossbar paint job, too.
Well done :icon_thumleft:
It's so satifying to tick off items on the list of things that need doing, however small.
Reminds me of the question, "How do you eat an elephant?" - one bite at a time :)
More elephant bits ;)
Rust spot on the dash cross-bar has disparued. It was 27C today, so good for spray painting. Crack on dash pad still needs sorting, hand brake boot is gonna be renewed very soon, the headlining on the c-posts needs tightening up a bit, and then new carpets are going on the wish list. In short, Noriaki could have a proper interior soon! :))
It just keeps getting better and better :great:
:13: Great work,very satisfying looking results :sign0098:
No end to your talents !
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You're most generous, Jamie. You haven't seen me try to weld yet, though! :))
Uh-oh. This always signals trouble ahead. 😱 We seem to have got ourselves a self-adjusting distributor. On the lead circuit. Everytime the ignition is about to go off song, the rev counter warns us by dropping 1000 revs or so. Then another 500. Or by doing a jolly dance up and down the register.
This time we barely got back across the bridge without stalling. Started well, though. Noriaki was running extraordinarily smoothly for the first hour, before we turned upwind and headed back. Now back in garage, scratching our heads again... ::)
Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any advice appreciated!
Rear ignition cable on lead was faulty. Have replaced both on that circuit, but not test-driven yet. Having torrential rains. Granted, Noriaki isn't made of sugar, but to test ignition systems in these downpours doesn't seem like a good idea... ;)
BTW. Malcolm: As an instrument wizard, have you got any idea what makes my rev counter do these dance moves? I'm not confident it has returned to normal yet. I'm running MSD-boxes on mechanic signal from the contact breakers. I wonder if the old 7mm ignition cables could be causing interference. In process of ordering replacements, and they will be 8mm.
New BLUE 8mm ignition cables on the way. A kit, so we can get rid of som excess cabling as well. Should tidy things up. In the meantime, thinking back on how things were when the sun was shining brightly — and AO Herschel Orange looked nice and deep in the evening light.
How did this happen? No wonder the engine doesn't run properly when lead is engaged. The lead distributor (right in 1st photo) is completely off range! Easy enough to sort, but how did that happen? After barely 2000 miles? ???
An old pic with the correct alignment added below.
No signs of slack in the distributor axle, so just hoping there'll be no nasty surprises when I dismantle the thing! :dontknow:
Stunning pictures :love4:
Strange about the distributor rotor movement - interested to hear if you find the cause.
Yep – the top distributor was one notch off position. No loose bolts or any slack in gears. Could see no visible damage anywhere. So the mystery remains. I'd like to believe my engine builder when he says he did everything right, but more than that, I'd like to be able to trust this will not repeat itself!
Pics below of the base before and after reset, plus the present, correct angle of the rotors.
Set ignition as well as I could by ear with the engine still fairly cold. Idle a bit rough (but then again I have practically no resistance in the exhaust these days -home-made manifold and melted rear silencer- so that might affect how it's running). No rougher than before, anyway.
Starting and re-starting was a bit more difficult, too. On first test run I got some scraping noises when giving it some wellie uphill. Hard to locate, since road was wet and there was loads of ambient noise. Could have been an ignition box struggling (I hope).
Then swapped the cables for the MSD boxes and did a second test run. This time the car ran really well and no ugly noises to be heard. Pulled much better from low revs, and had plenty of pull on 2nd gear (couldn't give it more beans because of city speed limit). Much less splutter when braking on 2nd gear downhill and no delay on throttle at all. Seemed easier to re-start as well. Could be the MSD-boxes needed time to reconfigure, I'm not sure how they work in that respect.
Anyway, I did check the angles of the rotors on the timing mark after the drive. No sign of any changes.
We'll see how it behaves at cold start tomorrow and take it from there. Then fit new ignition cables before fine tuning with lamp.
Sorry, your probably fed up with distributors, but the ignition mystery continues. Found an old Trail distributor and checked it against the one on the engine. Cam angle is identical. So nothing funky with the distributor, then. Then re-set the base back from 51 to the correct 34 degrees. And guess what: the rotors now align perfectly (see below)! ??? Don't ask me how!
So far so good. But the angle was definitely off earlier and I have photos (and a witness!) to prove it. It might look like there's some wear in the middle of the brass base, as if a distributor has slipped at some point in the past. But nothing at all was loose upon first disassembly, so it has to be an old mark.
Haven't test started the engine yet. I'm waiting for my new, bespoke, 8,2mm ignition cables to have shoes fitted – and only then. ;)
Definitely not sick of distributors, it just over my head lol
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Well, now I'm sick of distributors. Especially my trail unit. Got new cables fitted today. Look very nice. Everything correctly aligned. I tune the ignition by ear and set off up the hills (MoT due tomorrow, so early rise). Fortunately I'm nearly home when the spluttering returns. Manage to coax home with a couple of roadside tinkerings.
NOW i FIND the cause. Yes, it is mechanical. The distributor axle simply doesn't reach far enough into the socket, so it slips. Even when everything is nicely tightened up, I can turn the rotor around by hand with just a little bit of force. Once loose, it keeps slipping and sliding.
So now looking for a new trail dizzy, a new trail dizzy socket, and going for MoT on the lead circuit only. Should probably warn my mechanic to wear a gas mask tomorrow! ::)
As you say, Clive, giving up is not an option! This will be sorted. How much is left of the season when that happens is another question...
https://fullfunctioneng.com/product/12a-trigger-hall/
Bought one of these today
Bet it dont help you tho
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Thanks, but you're right, Jamie. Not compatible with twin dizzy. On the upside, I won't have to buy the whole lump and spend loads. Should be enough with a new/better brass rotor base and a new/better (correct) cam for 12A trail dizzy. My engine builder is looking through his stock of leftovers atm.
Another "upside" is I have to learn how to dismantle, overhaul and reassemble distributors with all their tiny shims and whatnots. The stream of forum posts should be secured for a while... :))
Twin dizzy ..... now youre just being greedy. Lol
Im sure if it ran a modern ecu you could tandem the signal etc or wasted spark yadda yadda .
Either or new skills is always great


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This picture may help.
The vacuum pots now look in the right position, so you only need a strobe light and the pointer should then start lining up with the red and white marks on the pulley.
Try and get you money back for the wheel kit as you need an ECU to make this work.
Thanks, Clive. Yes, the vacuum clocks are a good indicator, but not when the trail cam disengages from the socket and starts doing its own thing. Then every new rev potentially comes with its own unique ignition timing! The clocks don't budge, but I can promise the rotor position does. It's dancing all over the place. ;)
And Jamie, I can tell you're now intrigued by the twin-dizzy magic, so consider this: The trail distibutor cam rotates anti-clockwise, the lead distributor cam rotates clockwise. Each of them are topped by a two-headed rotor (yep, that's a lot of sparks). Nonetheless, the lower cable from each distributor cap goes to rotor one, the higher cable to rotor two. At this point you can already see faint blue smoke coming out of my ears. How are yours doing? :D
It seems the problem at hand is to be found in the sockets. At least they make perfect mechanic sense...
Had a spare Hella 170, I thought. And was looking for a match. And this guy had a 170 for sale. Turned out mine was much bigger (a 190 or maybe even a 200). So I still have that lonely single lamp. But now I also have a pair of stunning Hella curve lamps that the same guy also had for sale (unused, in their original boxes). To hang from beneath the bumper like on this Rx3, I suppose. Dunno why I ended up buying these –apart from the fact that they looked great– we don't get much darkness in classic car season up here in the arctic. But at least it's nice car jewellery...
Wow what a nice RX-3
Quote from: Eccentric shaft on February 07, 2026, 09:59:04 PMHad a spare Hella 170, I thought. And was looking for a match. And this guy had a 170 for sale. Turned out mine was much bigger (a 190 or maybe even a 200). So I still have that lonely single lamp. But now I also have a pair of stunning Hella curve lamps that the same guy also had for sale (unused, in their original boxes). To hang from beneath the bumper like on this Rx3, I suppose. Dunno why I ended up buying these –apart from the fact that they looked great– we don't get much darkness in classic car season up here in the arctic. But at least it's nice car jewellery...
Very nice
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Very nice RX-3 and I love the jewellery :13:
Been a while. Not really going anywhere atm. Weird situation with distributors on the way in the mail (I hope – it's been weeks), still have to change the cams on them, which I hope will sort the ignition woes. And finish the dash job. Fingers crossed the coming season will see a lot of driving! In the meantime looking back at some good times:
Gorgeous roads for a scenic drive :love4:
I like that you had to break away from the procession to get fuel at the end ;D
Thanks for sharing :icon_thumleft:
It's that tiny fuel tank. 65,5 litres gets you nowhere! :D
65.5! Bigger than the RX-8 tank!
:notworthy:
When Norwegian rally ace Kjell Gudim and co-driver Johannes Falle entered an Rx2 for the 1971 RAC Rally, they found the 65 litre tank too small for the thirsy rotary. So they extended the capacity using two 20-litre jerry cans that they connected to the main tank. The scrutineers were probably a bit more relaxed about fire safety regulations back then! ;)
Wow thats a lot of fuel >:D
Over 100 litres! That's a lot of weight to carry too!
To pump all that fuel I currently have a pump dangling loose from the fuel lines. This will now be fixed (haha nice pun!) with this NOS 616-pump complete with the proper fittings. Only potential snag is my manual says 616 needs 2 kg fuel pressure, whereas Rx2 needs 2-3 kgs. Now what do they mean by that? 🤔 a) Anything btw 2 and 3 kgs does the job, or b) Up to 3 kgs needed for proper leadfooted driving and 4 open nikki ports?
Of course, the Rx2 has an overflow return pipe, the 616 hasn't. But would this affect the minimum fuel pressure required? Might just have to try it and see what happens. But first the ignition needs sorting and fortunately the distributors have resurfaced and arrived, so at some point we'll see...
As you say, just try it and see. If it works, fine. If not, a bit of head scratching required to find a solution :)
That looks like an old Facit pump and they don't produce much pressure so you should be OK.
From memory they are very noisy though.
Dash top finally off. As it turns out, this is the part that went in FIRST at the assembly line. So the main rule is "Everything on the dash that can be dismantled needs to be dismantled".
There are two short-cuts for the adventurous:
1) The mid section with the heater controls can stay if you slacken the screws a bit.
2) The Instrument panel only needs the speedo wire disconnecting and moving to the side. You don't need to disconnect the wiring and earth connection.
But this means that -without seeing much– you'll be fumbling around with your hands in an area that is in effect a bed of spikes (as above so below) in order to locate clips (many and razor sharp) and nuts (4), so short cuts are made at your own peril. Expect some minor blood sacrifice. ::)
"Blood sacrifice" :)) - what a commitment to the car gods :13:
Chrome trim for Noriaki's dash just arrived. These are not brittle plastic ones, but chrome plated metal, so they won't wrinkle or break. Kustom Cuts make good quality stuff. Not wild about some of their un-original bling, but for those interested in modifying their cars, it's always nice that there's quality parts available.
It's great that parts like this can still be obtained to keep our classic Mazdas looking good :icon_thumleft:
More parts in from Phil's amongst other sources. And it's all looking good:
Am amazing collection of goodies there :P
Yep, and there's a sale on at Phil's Rotaries. Everything is 30% off. :great:
Eliminating little annoying things: the window surround was painted in lovely orange, but it wasn't looking that lovely on the inside of the screen...
Eliminating bigger annoying things: The old fuel pump was hanging loose from its fuel hoses. The fastenings were gone. Looking better now with everything removed, but gonna get tricky to change that bit of fuel hose above the filler tube and get a clamp fitted. Might have to empty tank and take filler tube off, but don't want to get dirt in the tank either.
Old pump is same make as my 616 pump. Looks original, but the missing fastenings may suggest otherwise.
Next big question is: Should I find or make a replacemen for the original fuel pump mounting, drill a couple of new holes in the boot floor, or move the pump to the engine bay? 🤔
And if I keep it under the rear wing, should I retain the weird fuel-hose loop around the pump or make an easier, straigh connection?
I'm not knowledgeable enough about the original setup to comment on those questions :dontknow:
As it is hidden, whatever you think works best :icon_thumleft:
Want a nice, chunky fuel filter that fits in the clamp just like the original? Here's one:
I have used these on the RX-4 and sell these filters for gen 1 cars.
You will see where the arrow is that I cut this off at each end to help flow.
For the fuel pump make sure its rubber mounted properly as they are very noisy compared to the Mazda pump
Ah, spot on, then! :great: Thanks for the flow tip! What you say about the noise supports my latest plan of making a bracket for the pump, similar to the original, but with an added layer of rubber between the bracket and the boot floor.
The Hose from Hell is out! Wedged in above the fuel filler pipe, between the wheel arch and the wing. Such a tiny space, and full of muck, of course. By the looks of it, it's been there since 1972, so high time it is replaced! :eek:
Meanwhile, the home-made fuel pump bracket is nearing completion. Based on a spare bracket for the window washer bottle, plus a double layer of stainless steel band sandwiching a thin layer of rubber. The other thick rubber piece added above the pump itself will hopefully reduce the noise levels. Not exactly a beauty, but nobody will ever get their head up under that rear wing anyway. :D
Next question is how to do the fuel line layout. The original setup has the fuel line going all the way around the pump. Not sure what's the point of that. 🤔 I'm tempted to shorten and simplify it a bit. But it would be nice to keep enough hose to allow the fuel filter to be lifted into the boot through the inspection hatch when changing it. The opening at the bottom of the wing will be closed off with a home-made panel. Preferably made from some sort of plastic material.
It never rains, but it pours! Freshly upholstered dash top just arrived. Jan has done a very nice job indeed! I've seen many attempts at this type of stitching on Rx2 dash tops, but never one as straight and smooth as this! :sign0098:
So, soon dash re-assembly is coming up. Just test fitted the new metal trim from Kustom Cuts for now. Looks promising! This will give Noriaki a proper facia-lift! :D
Yep looks good :sign0098:
More progress. Glove box still awaiting reassembly, because the lid stopper had surface rust! 😱
Found fuel hoses around the pump that were 6mm. Now replacing with 8mm hose as I go along. Suspect that might have caused the bad running.
Time for a new video clip:
Out and about. Smooth running again with the new pump, filter and hoses. Just need to make and put in new gaskets for the distributors & sockets now & then we'll be up and running. Almost forgot how wonderfully low Noriaki looks when parked alongside Chihiro...
So Nice :great: :great: :great:
He can make a scary face, too! ;)
Keep forgetting I need H4 bulbs on H3 sockets. Or could just go H3. Not a lot of driving in the dark up here in summer... :D
That's a R2 compatible H4 bulb, not a H3 of course. It's getting on 35 years since I worked at a service station... ::)
Some very nice work there; good bracketry for that pump and good dashboard work :13:
Nice or not. Decided to completely re-do the fuel pump and filter assembly. Moving it inboard to save it from the dirt and get some ease of access. Meant drilling two more holes in the fuel filter cover to let the fuel lines and wire through. Pump uses the original mounts, but from the top. The whole assembly, filter and all, will be mounted inside a battery box for protection.
How to:
Pump sits in the original mounting, but standing inside the boot instead of hanging behind the rear wheel. Drilled two additional holes in the fuel filter inspection lid to allow the out-going fuel line and the wires through respectively (see earlier post). The in-going fuel line goes through plate's existing clamp hole. Only marginal widening needed. Box is fastened on top of same inspection lid using longer bolts. Box should protect the assembly from potential loose objects in the boot area (did I hear baggage?). Since Facet pump is quite vocal, I added a bit of sound proofing. Changing filter or pump is now a matter of minutes, rather than hours, and inspection only requires the lifting of two lids. ;)
Upgraded fuel system now appears to be working (fingers crossed). Only a proper test drive will show whether the new setup has solved the misfire/faltering or whether the cursed Nikki has more evil tricks stored up its nozzles. Fuel pressure regulator should improve the odds. Currently set at 4 psi and idle and revving sounding fine.
Also, got the temp gauge working again. So the dashboard refurb also covers dials and switches – everything works (bar the radio that has no speaker yet). 😅
Noriaki's been tried, tested and successfully MoT'd today. Won't run a 100% until that Nikki has been replaced, but at least we can get some drives in (weather permitting) before our short, arctic classic car season ends. :great:
Sorry the video above went black. The lighting wasn't good, so decided to delete it. Thing is, my GoPro isn't very suitable for filming indoors & the lighting in my garage could do with improvement. But now we've had a full two days without rain (Would you believe it!), here's some proper images of the new inboard fuel system. And some little Mazda sounds to go. Enjoy!
Lovely video - sounding and looking just great :sign0098: