All great things have a beginning

[Jamie R]

On my set up both the remote reservoirs and the hole on the master cylinders for the low pressure side fluid feed are both 7/16" unf



I bought 3 of these, yes it's 45 quid to feed 3 cylinders, but you can get brake fluid rubber hose to push onto the tails and buy some fittings for the other end, job done


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Pieced it all together

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Can't seem to get the balance bar in any further than that, it's a bit tight

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Think I have got my master the wrong way around as looking at the picture I'm thinking the front master should go on the right as that gets more braking effort/travel?

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[Grant Monkhouse]

This litlle beauty is what is going to stop things breaking so fast, fully adjustable clutch slipper.

There is a clutch company fairly local to me so going to get in touch with them and see if they can make me some clutch plates to fit my clutch out of sintered iron, that's the material drag guys all use so night aswell try it

Last time I got a clutch plate from them it cost 90 squid.... So a twin disc woon be much and its going to be a hell of a lot cheaper than 2 grand for a new clutch everyone uses

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[Jamie R]

Think I have got my master the wrong way around as looking at the picture I'm thinking the front master should go on the right as that gets more braking effort/travel?

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Hi grant,

It shouldn't make any difference which side the smaller master cylinder goes to

The problem you have is the spherical bearing isn't in the tube properly so the fulcrum point is acting about the right hand m cylinder.

The spherical bearing needs to slide up and down the entirety of the tube with ease.

That way you can fine tune it easily with your cable.

Some more work needed getting that bearing home properly


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Iv just had a quick Google and it says the spherical bearing should be able to slide from side to side?

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Think I have got my master the wrong way around as looking at the picture I'm thinking the front master should go on the right as that gets more braking effort/travel?

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Hi grant,

It shouldn't make any difference which side the smaller master cylinder goes to

The problem you have is the spherical bearing isn't in the tube properly so the fulcrum point is acting about the right hand m cylinder.

The spherical bearing needs to slide up and down the entirety of the tube with ease.

That way you can fine tune it easily with your cable.

Some more work needed getting that bearing home properly


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Ah OK, think there might be paint in there from the powder coating which I can sand down and make smooth. Probably try scotch bright first as it's not course. Will have a go Saturday as iv got to drive to London now, do a 3 hour job and drive back home

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Got the bugger out. Definitely paint binding

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[Jamie R]

Blimey that's some trek!

On a Friday too!!

Don't forget the "action" won't be correct either until you have fluid in.

You need the fact it's harder to push fluid through the larger bore for it to make the smaller bore to travel further. So you need some resistance.

Didn't want you getting disheartened or think summat still wasn't right once you sorted the bearing


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Any need for this with having the bias bat?

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[Jamie R]

At this point I'd say no, your pedal box should prevent the rear brakes from locking up.

Even with winding the bar so all the bias is towards the front, if your rear brakes are so large they lock up, either cut the line and fit that, but my preference would be fit a larger m cylinder for the rear brakes. Maybe go from 0.7 to 0.75

I had a valve like that fitted to my Chevy truck as I had a simpler system on the yank tank.

The discs available to me at the time meant that I had to fit larger discs to the rear. So prevent locking up I used the valve. Never had an issue.

Keep hold of it, if the worst happens you have options


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Thanks Jamie. If I just. Wind it so the rears barely do anything as o intend on not doing much braking anyway then minimal chance of lock up at 130mph lol

Not lookokg forward to doing the brake lines,.

Iv got some copper line butight buy some of the other stuff that's softer to make doing the flaring easier

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Have just spent the best part of an hour cleaning out the powder coating and the balance bar slides in half way nice and easy but the rest not so much.

A bit more with the sand paper and should be good, little bit annoying having to do this but apart from that it's a good piece of equipment

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[Jamie R]

Have just spent the best part of an hour cleaning out the powder coating and the balance bar slides in half way nice and easy but the rest not so much.

A bit more with the sand paper and should be good, little bit annoying having to do this but apart from that it's a good piece of equipment

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I had to do the same for some reason, don't ask why, I have billet aluminium pedals so no paint.

You may find it's a bit of penetration from welding if they're steel


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