All great things have a beginning

[Paul_13]

Go on mellens.com for wiring loom.
I've got an interactive manual on laptop.
The mx5 and rx8 wiring looks are almost identical if you get stuck trying to find a mx5 diagram

[Paul_13]

http://www.mellens.net/mazda/Mazda-Miata-2006-2007/index.html

[Grant Monkhouse]

Nice one

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Dad ported the bridge between the secondary butterfly's out as don't need it there, suppose to improve airflow too so more hp hopefully.
Just need to make some block off plates or buy some for all the holes etc left from removing all the rats not and emmisons gumf...

Front bumpers don't half look funny and happy probably end up swapping this front for the mk3.5 front as they look a bit better.

Iv removed the door cards also today, quite easy once you know where to find the screws, removed the speakers and the plastic that it's all attached too, honestly can see the doors being the seldom most biggest place to lose any more weight, but I'm not too sure if I need to keep the glass in or not, if I forked put for some light weight doors Or most likely hole saw the crap out of these ones.

I'm going to put window nets in so hopefully that negates the need for the actual windows as nets would stop arms flying out in an accident

Looking at getting a TIG welder, they're not all that expensive tbh just can't go buying one whilst I'm not at work

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[Paul_13]

Bear in mind you'll need to get the head lights. Under tray shields and good luck finding one.
Mx5 mk 3.5 are a nightmare to find bits for

[Grant Monkhouse]

Bear in mind you'll need to get the head lights. Under tray shields and good luck finding one.
Mx5 mk 3.5 are a nightmare to find bits for

True, unless I don't need to run them.

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Bolted the upper inlet to the lower to see if it fits now iv got engine in location front to back as iv lifted the gear box into positionand its really close to stock position, just requires a little opening of the hole with a cutting disc.

Got a little issue with the alternator.... Its too damn big tried putting the original water pump housing on but the just creates huge issues with the turbo, as the alternator would originally bolt to the water pump housing.

Engine looks prety good in there, mazda should have offered a turbo rotary option from factory with the mx5, wouldn't have to worry about trying to sell a different model car to a minority of enthusiasts lol all the people into racing would have for sure ordered mx5s with the rotary engine

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[Paul_13]

Built 2 apex make an alternator bracket which I believe let's the alternator sit closer to the engine

[Paul_13]

https://www.built2apex.com/product-page/fd-low-mount-alternator-bracket

Maybe not

[Paul_13]

Can you mount it where it was originally?

[Grant Monkhouse]

Built 2 apex make an alternator bracket which I believe let's the alternator sit closer to the engine

Cheers I will look into it. I think Clive runs a smaller sized but but more powerful alternator?  I will gain a bit of space when I get the engine in place but its not going to be much at all. If needs be I will have to make one

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Can you mount it where it was originally?

No because when I put it on earlier it fills up the room where the turbo is going to sit. I will throw it all in and take a picture tomorrow.

Although I'm using an fd intake, the engine plates are actually from an FC, iv currently got an fd front cover on the engine but I'm swapping that over to an FC front cover so I can use a stock fc sump

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[Grant Monkhouse]

As you can see, off use the water pump housing (which makes the engine looks absolute dog poop) it's taking up room where my turbo is going.

The alternator originally bolts to that housing. I'm sure I will gain another 20mm when I shift the engine over a little. So things might fit, just.

Need to figure out how to take the front cover off and swap it over to the fc one

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[Grant Monkhouse]

A question for anyone that knows about suspension...

So obviously I have a near 6 inch gap now between the top of the wheel and the fenders/wings, this has come from me removing so much interior and boat anchor engine piston motor.

Are the current standard springs and shocks too heavy of a spring? Would soft springs allow the car to settle down and sit lower?

Obviously adjustable coilovers will help BUT will they still end up sitting so high?

I'm betting on this car weighing less than a tonne even with a full roll cage.

What is the best way to to get the car sitting right? Corner weights? And then select suspension set up from there?

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[Jamie R]

I’m no expert but everyone I spoke to when I was ordering my coil overs when I asked what poundage spring rate to get they all asked for the corner weights.

Like you it’s a bit difficult question to answer when you have “half a car” I went for a relatively lightweight one, but won’t know for definite till it’s all fin

I consider adjustable coil overs fine tuning for getting corner weights balanced and getting your suspension geometry correct. You dun want bump steer or odd camber angles.

I’d suggest get all ya car loaded up ready to roll  then you can make a more informed decision on lighter springs, adjustable coil overs or both


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