Westory Progress.

[boosted]

£500 max..imo.


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[Westory]

£500 max..imo.


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If I can get it for half of that I'll be happy. See what happens later

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[Westory]

No go on the trailer, too far gone for what I am looking for Oh well, will keep on looking and just hire one until I find the right one

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[boosted]

Yep thats what i done about 45 a aday. Fully serviced and generally newish so no hassle.
Then i found my tiltbed Brian James that had just had 800 spent onit. New shoes drum cables a rewire jockey wheel etc and got that. As Wayne said they can be had new or from hire places a year old handy if a business as can get vat back.
Mine was 1600 but 3300 new for a tiltbed.
My nieghbour had a folding trailer for his kitcar single axle. 750kg rating. Very neat solution.
I need a big 1 for the rx7 else id have gone smaller. But its earnt me a few quid and favours  picking up cars for mates.

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[Westory]

Jon - "My nieghbour had a folding trailer for his kitcar single axle. 750kg rating. Very neat solution"
Do you mean a folding dolly A Frame type as also considered this. Only reason I went off this is I have always thought towing with the driving wheels on the road was frowned on.

Otherwise this would be perfect as takes up little space and can throw it in the back of a van incase something does wayward on track.

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[boosted]

No a proper trailer, it folded down and clamped together lifting all 4 wheels off ground. A towing dolley is unsuitable as i think it will wreck the diff.

[boosted]

I did a trackday today in the civic...Adam was there with Westory annd shes misbehaving ...
Clive can you describe your throttle pedal fault?
She is cutting out and then ok...
Flying n dieing making it unsafe...
Omp e shaft sensor changed trackside and a maf clean but still doing it...no codes present but fault clears itself. Seems to be temperature related...
I had a loose connection a while back but that issue all ok...
Im wondering what cause limp mode...

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[Westory]

Sorry not been on for a while, broken phone, then broke it 12 hours after having it fixed 🤦🏻

Shame about the Westfield playing up yesterday but was always meant to be a shake down day

So I go out warming slicks and breaks. End of second lap I’m ready to put the hammer down. Half a lap or 3-4 heavy acceleration runs, mainly on pit straight to quarry she dies. Doesn’t stall just limits me to 2.5k rpm. I can pop it in 6th and crawl for about 15 seconds then suddenly she decides all is ok again and so the process repeats half a lap at a time.

Felt like a bit of an idiot flying past people then two mins later waving them past 🙈

Also changed the TB as well but still the same issue

Any thoughts, could a throttle pedal cause limp mode? When it is in limp mode I do still have throttle though just limited to 2.5k

[clive]

Sorry to hear you had this happen, yes 2.5k is Limp mode.  Can you get some OBD codes and post them up so we can try and help.

[boosted]

We couldnt get any on day Clive. Adams laptop would not connect..my old scanner that i used for westy died so i had a basic dongle thing that only picked up canvus codes for missing abs and dash. Thing is it clears and possibly resets codes. I suspected omp thats why Adam changed but fault persists...
I know you had probs with your throttle pedal early days but cant remember symptoms...?
Ive suggest getting laptop connected and going for drive see what triggers up...

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[Westory]

Hi Clive, it’s not storing any codes, we checked every time I came in. My obd software can record live data but For some reason it’s struggling to connect. I’ll see if I can borrow a tool to capture data as the issue happens

[clive]

I had this on the race car, as soon as the master switch is killed it clears the codes down till the ECU finds the fault again and goes into limp mode again to protect the engine,

Yes OMP is the likely culprit, I even carry a spare as a just in case.   

[Casey]

I seem to recall someone had an issue with their TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and this caused limp mode?

I recall the TP sensor has two potentiometers with a 5v input to each. One sensor sends an inverse voltage signal to the ECU, i.e. pot 1 says 1.5v, pot 2 says 3.5 v at a certain pedal position, both should always add to 5 volts. I'm assuming the ECU checks this 5 volt sum is correct - if one pot is faulty than the sum won't be correct, so the ECU can't be sure of the throttle demand and will force limp mode for safety? A lot of guessing on my part on exactly how it works, but plausibly might be a cause of the issue.

However, this should generate a P2138 code.....

Just throwing this idea into the "pot"   

[boosted]

Adam, pm your address and ill send ecu etc today to try.
Im send Big Pete a pm for parts..
Throttle pedal. Omp and maf and barometric sensor and ect sensor. Send me your email and ill send you his contact details.
If none of that works poss a loose connection.
This ssv rattle ive no experience of this...if it was failing to operate jamming what symptoms would it create?
Rest assured ill help you Adam even if it means bringing it back and me working onit

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[Westory]

Thanks all,

Yes have some work to do to figure this out. Positive note would be that it’s nothing majorly wrong engine wise as after the limp mode it runs as normal and full power.

Jon - I’ll WhatsApp address in a min. On the ssv side of things it’s odd, it was ticking the other week then disappeared and sounded fine, was ok on first couple of sessions then started ticking later on. Smooth as silk yesterday when I started it in the morning.

Couple of random things I’ve noticed in my ownership which I would welcome some feedback on.

Have noticed that on only a couple of occasions when wot in 4th it felt flat up the revs when it usually builds and builds with a decent surge higher in the revs. Only happened a couple of times but maybe worth a mention. After each occasion I’ve slowed back down and done another run and it feels fine again.

I have also had 3 occasions now when it will struggle to start, even with my jump pack helping. Turning over nice and fast, just nothing. Takes 6 or 7 5-10 seconds of turning to finally come to life. There seems to be no logic to when this has happened, eg not starting for a week, slow or hard driving Before turning off, switching off when cool or hot. I could leave it 1 minute and switch off or drive it for 10 miles and it always starts back up on the button after the not starting issue. I don’t feel it is a compression or flooding issue as it’s done this a couple of times in 4 months, could this be a ssv sticking?

The ticking can be heard most noticeably when you put your ear to the plastic intake manifold, have manually moved actuators and feel Smooth and free to move with no play? The noise comes then goes After driving

My issue on track was very predictable, by that I mean I had an idea when it was about to do it by how hard I had been driving. I could do a good few laps changing at 7k rpm but when taking to redline and putting the hammer down for a few corners and straights it would go into limp. Majority of time it was down the pit straight after going all the way through 4th and 5th

I need to imitate it on the road with live diagnostics which may prove tricky as top of 3rd is law breaking, let alone 4th and 5th