Engine simplification

[Timmyc]

Hey guys,

now that ive got my engine out of my old fc i would like to simplify it to the bare essentials

im relatively new to tuning a rotary engine, i\'ve owned them before but not tuned them, im a mechanic to trade so dont mind attempting things
, can make blanking plates etc easily

so what can i remove? air pump is already gone and the BAC is welded up on my new manifold and ive got a microtech lt-8 ecu

pictures of what others have removed will also help

also what do these solenoids under the oil filler neck control? emissions junk? and can they be removed

thanks

[Prof]

Pretty much all of them can be removed - 2 are emissons control, 1 is called PRC - it cuts vacuum to the fuel regulator when the car is started warm - you can remove that if you\'re happy to just blip the throttle for about 30 secs on a warm start - after that the solenoid is not active any way.
 
There\'s a boost solenoid up the oil neck too, can get rid of that if you\'re using an aftermarket boost controller or manual boost controller.
 
That allows you to remove pretty much all of the black rats nest of hoses and pipes that sit under the upper inlet manifold
 
If the airpump is gone you can get rid of the ACV on the side of the engine if it\'s not already gone - it sits under the BAC.  Have to admit I kept my BAC as it adjusts engine RPM for PAS and other electrical loads.
 
I\'m fairly sure there\'s a simplified VAC diagram on the site here that was borrowed from RX7 Club - I\'ll see if I can find it.

[Timmyc]

thanks prof that clears some stuff up nice info on the PRC valve
 
going to be using an apexi avcr boost controller so will remove the boost solenoid as well
 
yeah i want as much as i can gone
 
yeah the ACV was there but ive now removed it also, i was thinking of keeping the BAC also but the new additional injector manifold has had the hole for it welded up so thats made my decidion for me lol
 
if you find it mate that would be awesome, i\'ll have a search for it as well
 
thanks man

[Prof]

This thread shows the vac and other routing - There is a similar diagram - which I can\'t find - showing the simplified plumbing :
 
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64719

[Timmyc]

Thanks, that helps as well, seems like i can remove a fair amount then

[Prof]

Bingo !
 
Found the diagram.
 
Incidentally - I removed the solenoid in the green pipework - just go straight form manifold port to FPR
 
I also removed the purge control valve - that\'s another 3 lines - capped off the lower vent on the oil neck, and just retained the upper one that Tee\'s in from the charcoal can back through a 1 way valve to the intake piping.
 
I wired some resistors into the loom to fool the stock ECU that the solenoids were still there, and the engine runs fine without all of that stuff - You won\'t have that problem with the Microtec

[captainbizzaro]

I\'m running Microtech too, junked everything and capped nipples off apart from line to FPR, MAP and Boost Gauge. Attack your throttle body next-there\'s a fair bit you can lose off of that and free the flow up a bit.

[Timmyc]

niiiiiiiiiiice
 
thanks, thats made it a lot simplier in my mind
 
do i really need my charcoal filter? i presume that when i get rid of most vacuum pipes i can get rid of the vacuum reservours as well
 
yeah should be fine with the ecu

[Timmyc]

sounds good captain bizzaro! have you any pictures of when you ditched everything?
 
yeah secondary butterflies are getting the chop as well

[Timmyc]

now that i have a grasp of what i can and cant ditch, i have a few other questions,
 
1.
what the hell is this? lol
 

 
2.
whats this? oil pressure?
 

 
3.
whats this? little connection hidden away?
 

 
4.
im doing away with the standard oil cooler and fitting a trust cooler with filter relocation kit and thermostatic control plate, the filter relocation bolts onto the original fiter housing and the oil cooler runs off the filter, this renders the original oil cooler ports on the block of no use, my question is do i just block these or to i have to link them? does the oil circulate using the standard oil cooler?
 

 

 
you can see the standard ports at each end of the block
 

[m1tch]

Why are you doing away with the oil cooler? You going to be running more than the 500bhp that its capible of?

[Timmyc]

Changing it as it came attatched to the filter relocation kit that I primarily wanted but due to running a bit kit and going to be using a v mount setup I can mount the cooler under the n\\s headlight and get good airflow to cool it and allowingi better airflow through the v mount as well

[Prof]

Here are some answers:
 
1)  Air Supply Valve - it passes air from the hose above it into the plenum mixing chamber.  It\'s electrically wired in parallel with the Accelerarted Warmup System Valve (AWS) and is responsible for that horendous revving when you first start the TII engine.  It can be eliminated and blanked off - no need to cap the hose either
 
2) Is the Oil Pressure Sender
 
3) Is the for the Engine Water temp gauge in the car - and is really just measuring the temperature of the block - although it is in the water jacket and in contact with the coolant.  It\'s got so much thermal inertia that the gauge never really moves from centre unless something very bad happens.
 
4) Don\'t know if you can block off the oil coolant passages or whether you need to have flow there.  The oil comes out of the front one and returns to the back one - although there is a thermostat valve in the cooler to prevent the oil flowing when it\'s not warm enough - so evidently the system can work without the oil flowing through that path

[Timmyc]

prof you are an all knowing FC genius if the standard cooler has a thermostatic control i should jus be able to blank them off great stuff

[B.Martin]

Long live the Prof :god