A few questions......

[Brendan]

I\'m sure these have been asked a thousand times but I\'ll be damned if I can get the search function to find them.

I have been searching for a FC turbo, but being few and far between for a good one, the FD has started to grow on me, quite a bit in fact. I\'ve seen compression test results vary from low 7\'s to mid 8\'s in ads but can\'t find a reference to what they should be?

Also how easy are they to tune? I come from a GT4 back ground so if someone says I want "X" BHP I could ream off a list "mods" to achieve that goal or get close to it along with cost to boot.

What I would like to know is what to look for to get 350+bhp out of one. Not being overly familiar with rotaries means I don\'t even know what the standard set up can be pushed to safely, let alone what is needed to go beyond that.

I would image 300BHP in an FD to "feel" quick, quicker than it does in my GT4 anyway. But what are they like to live with everyday? Fuel consumption, service intervals etc?

A lot of what I know about engine tuning doesn\'t apply to the rotary as it doesn\'t have cams and pistons lol so any info greatly received even in the form of links to stuff to read.

[billybobbooth]

its nice to know im not the only one after this info, lol im from the same back ground gt4-mr2 turbo
 
i cant beleive that no-one knows what the stock engines can cope with bhp wise or boost wise before they need parts changing ect.

[dthebuk]

Rx7s are easy to tune (other than the mapping which is harder than piston engines)

If you update the exhaust, it is advised you go for an ecu upgrade to cope with it. Most suggest a Power fc. I started a thread a while back titled max power on stock furling or something like that and it\'s all mentioned there. After that you\'ll be looking into bigger turbos injectors and pumps etc

Generally I think you can get to 340-50 at the fly on twins fairly easily.

Aslo 8 is very strong. Possibly a new engine. 7 s still good. Remember not to get too held up with the engine though. They can be replaced, condition of everything else is more important IMO

Welcome back mr booth. Good to see your back looking for an rx7!

[trotter]

compression results:

>8barg = as new condition
7 - 8barg = no problems here
6 - 7barg = no real issue but you should start thinking about the cost of a rebuild
<6barg = car will struggle to start and/or hold compression - rebuild time.

Also bear in mind that you want smooth compression figures against all three sides of the rotor, i.e.:

front: 7.4, 7.5, 7.6
rear: 7.6, 7.6, 7.7

if you see one face with a markedly lower figure, i.e. 7.4, 6.2, 7.6 then you can be rest assured that one seal is on it\'s way out.

One other thing to think about, compression tests are not the be all and end all of reliability tests. You can have perfect compressionm, but have the water seals go the next day.

In terms of everyday living. With mildly tuned (~315bhp) running stock twins @0.8barg boost, i get about 12mpg in daily traffic. Motorway cruise can see that get upto around 25. Put the hammer down and you\'ll be looking at single figures.

If you look on the t\'interweb you will find the service manuals and intervals. Essentially oil and filter every 5k and plugs every 10k.

HTH

graeme

[slater1982]

Hi there,
 
Also coming from the gt4 background, i can vouch fot the fact that a rex will not only \'feel\' faster, it outright is faster!! i ran them both standard, then both with filters and catback exhaust and the rex was definitely quicker, only time it wasnt was the initial off the lights but as soon as your into second it wins hands down, and thats only cos the gt4 obviously puts more power on the road (4 wheel drive!!
 
i can say you\'ll find them very different to drive though, cos where the toymota has stacks and stacks of grip in the corners, a rex definitely doesnt, but hey, no one ever said being good at everything was easy!!