What pads would you reccomed?

[AtomicRex]

Jon what pads do you use with your brake setups?? dont you do your own big brake conversion??

Hiya Chris,
 
It depends on the type of use:
For Fast road and occasional track use, I put in the DS2500
For Solid Track use I use the DS3000
For Race I have started to use the DS2.11, Ferodo\'s latest pad!
 
TonyC used to use the Hawks, and I think I have managed to convert him ....well he is now running the DS2.11\'s in his new car

[stacy]

Chaps,

How you find the pads will of course be dependant on your disc.. I used DS3000 for years on AP discs but they give off a lot of brake dust and nowadays you don\'t need to compromise.

I am running a fully floating Alcon arrangement on 15" wheels and Toyo 888 tyres. The DS3000 still had a dust problem and also developed a glazing one.. Once sorted the limiting factor is now not the brake but the tyre..

There are pads that will work well (initial bite, friction coefficient, and temp range) and sit between the DS2500 and the DS3000 for track use. They also give off a lot less dust.

I\'d suggest a call into John at Ears Motorsport for any track use. For the road then I\'d go for something that won\'t eat your discs and have you wheel cleaning for ever more..

+44 (0) 1625 433773
info@ears.co.uk  

S.

[SiH]

I have 2500\'s front and (I think) Mu\'s rear. Ace fast road setup, and light track.

However - At Llandow last week I was starting to push them too far after about 10-12 minuters They were fading a bit, and even after 2 cool down laps, they were smoking for about 5 minutes when i pitted in!

[AtomicRex]

It all depends on how you brake at the end of the day....
 
The 2500\'s  should be ample for a fast trackday without fading, I use them for a wet race even...as the temp range works better in those conditions.
 
You shouldn\'t be worrying about dust build ups too much....it is a good thing!  You need to be keeping the pad face clean, otherwise it glazes...running a decent disc that will take the shine off the pad and then clear the resulting debris is good.

[SiH]

I\'m under no illusion of being a good driver, and I do tend to brake late, with not too much thought for brake temps
Another driver on the day had similar problems in an S14a - similar brake setup but running 315\'s on the front. He was braking late too. I was also running RE070\' which give quite a lot of scope for braking hard!.

Great pads though, and the new compopund is so much better than the olde one - I can drive the first mile without worrying about plowing over any small children, voles or badgers that may jump out without being able to stop!.

Anotehr great thing about the 2500\'s is the lack of tenacious dust - The dust given off by some pads (Carbon Lorraine, Mintex 1144, I\'m waving...) is some of the nastiest, most corrosive stuff i\'ve ever had near my lovely wheels. The 2500\'s jut wipe off the polished lips - it\'s all good

[SiH]

Just to add - I\'m by no means a good or experienced track driver - this is purely from the perspective of me using it as a weekend track \'dabbler\'. AtomicRex\'s experience is probably far more pertinent and useful than mine, I\'m just relaying my personal findings as a sub-amateur driver.

[AtomicRex]

Si,
 
Wasnt doubting your skills...not in any way.  I see a lot of people braking in a manor that is quite dangerous.
 
People feel that less and longer is better than more and shorter, so by braking for longer and at a reduced pressure wont boil the brakes and will preserve the system for longer.  This is dangerous!
 
If you are, as you say, braking late....getting it all done in a quick and clean action....then that is ideal!
 
Oh and you missed EBC off the list!!

[SiH]

The omission of EBC was perhaps a deliberate \'mistake\'.

My braking point is as retarded as my driving style. Wait, wait, wait, wait... Anchors. Hence my extensive use of the \'Oh sh!t\' lane in early laps!

[stacy]

Si,
 
People feel that less and longer is better than more and shorter, so by braking for longer and at a reduced pressure wont boil the brakes and will preserve the system for longer.  This is dangerous!
 
If you are, as you say, braking late....getting it all done in a quick and clean action....then that is ideal!
 
Oh and you missed EBC off the list!!

Hi,

Given a fixed mass, and given a fixed entry and exit speed could you explain the physics behind that please....?

Have EBC moved on from the boy racer market?

S.

[SiH]

Have EBC moved on from the boy racer market?

S.

All my experience(of the red and yellow variety) suggestions most certainly not. In fact, Curborough may still be littered with lumps of disintegrated red pad material... :o

[stacy]

I will admit to sharing your view. They always struck me as a predominately marketing led product, and experience subsequently (as recently as earlier this year with other competitors) hasn\'t dissuaded me from that. Not aware of any serious competitors/series that partake..

Anyway, back to physics. Am interested in any opposite view, but here\'s the rub as I see it. Apologies if it comes across in a patronising way, it\'s not my intent.

Brakes work by "converting" (won\'t go into the quotes) kinetic energy to heat energy. If you have a given entry speed (prior to braking) and a given exit speed (your turn in), and a fixed mass (the car), then the longer the braking distance the lower the peak temperature required to bring the speed down - because you are throwing in the only variable you have which is time.

Short and sharp will peak the temperatures and if you have a braking system not up to the job (a road system not built for track) it will fail. Either the fluid will overheat (long pedal) or the pads will overheat (short pedal just nothing happens), or the discs will glaze/warp (although the latter is rarer than people claim), or perm any 2-3 from the above.

So if you\'re on track with a road car and you want to last the day, don\'t be the last of the late brakers.

Of course the best solution is upgrade the brakes significantly, but in the real world we don\'t always have the budget - or in my case - the facility to work on the car. Yes, I used to source my track day cars for a number of years from a rental shop... ;-)

S.

[DR SCHNITZEL]

I just bought some for 20 quid for the front just to see if it gets rid of the gringing noise i have got on my fronts. ill let you know the performance.
 
what do you guys think of those greenstuff and redstuff pads etc.
 
lots of em on ebay

[stacy]

Personally, I wouldn\'t put them on my pushbike.

;-)

S.

[SiH]

Personally, I wouldn\'t put them on my pushbike.

;-)

S.

I use EBC Red and green on my pushbike They\'re only 160mm discs though! Reds are crap in the wet :giggle:

I certainly wouldn\'t use them on a car though. Japanese 12ookg coupe\'s don\'t seem to like them very much!

[overboost]

My setup for my 96 RZ
 
1. Dixcel FCR Carbon plain diskes
2. Dixcel Type Z pads
3. HEL brake line
4. Castrol SRS brake oil
5. 235f/265r R888s ( I usually count tyres as a part of brake set up as ur brakes are only as good as your tyres)
 
Massive stopping power and fade-free. Can\'t be any happier about them :Thumbs-up