Project rebuild....

Started by karl_tate, December 13, 2008, 07:28:34 PM

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BlitzBoy

Quote from: karl_tate;668268any idea why it sounds like a bridge though??

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coz you got big ports dude!!, Ive seen them lol
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

waqas_RX7


karl_tate

Quote from: BlitzBoy;668325coz you got big ports dude!!, Ive seen them lol



me to lol, i dont think its running its potential at the moment and im craving more so some things might get changed :D

its just it sounded like any normal, larger ported engine before i stopped using it and took the dash out.


cheers vtech-boi
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karl_tate

well got the plugs all cleaned up. looking at them though, it seems there is some difference in the gapping, any one know what they should be??




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karl_tate

decided to finally do a bit of work and swap all the fittings for the speedo, heater controls and gearstick surround. got that done and still had a few screws spare, its always the same :Giggle









looks much better now, just need to do something with the left part of the dash where its all yellow, dont know what though, any ideas??



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Jono FD3

I\'ve got some printed carbon fiber in stock... similar to what is on the dash pannels.
You could use that to tie it in with the rest of the dash?

Jono

Mims

Looking good dude... But you need to remove that airfreshner!!!!! :rollin

karl_tate

how is it aplied jono, just sticky back??
 
 
haha, carnt beat the good smell of an airfrenshner.
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karl_tate

well back into the garage it goes to sort the sump and a few other bits out.

few hours removing bits and its out :D :D










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karl_tate

had a productive day today :chat

first off was to fit the braided OMP lines i got off si, thanks again bud. out with the old and in with the new.

what a carry on i had with my self to get them in place, without the washers falling off and having enough room... god i dont know how people change these with their engine in, what a mare :2Mad












then moved onto cleaning up the sump and bottom of the engine ready to fit the sump back in with the brace i got of danny. the designed grooves in the sump, i thought that there wouldnt be enough pressure evenly spread so i flatted them down.











then fitted the studs with some loctite and then got the sump and brace all bolted up with the engine mounts just about ready to go back in.











then fitted the braided clutch line i got off ebay, gave the engine a good wipe and clean down and got it back on the crane, had a little fight with it going back in but its always the same, comes out so easy but never wants to go back in its little home....









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SiH

Looking good dude!
I must admit, I wouldn\'t relish the thought of putting those lines on!

Can I ask a quick wiring question? (As you are pretty much the wiring guru!) - on the rear plate on the pasenger side there\'s a water temp sender, I think it\'s for the dash gauge - have you any idea which of the looms the plug for that is on? It\'s either the engine harness or the alternator loom - I can\'t find it on mine, buit worrid I\'ve trimmed it :o

DR SCHNITZEL


DR SCHNITZEL

very good mate, can i ask if you can remove and replace the sump by dropping the subframe? I have a leak at the mo so it needs re sealing.
 
is it just quicker to lift the engine?
 
I was thinking of doing this by undoing the subframe and the front shocks, to drop the frame a few inches

SiH

Problem with dropping the frame is that it will put your alignment out, unless you manage to get it back on mm perfect. If you haven\'t had your car aligned, of course, that\'s no bother :D

karl_tate

in the picture of the clutch line, if you look where the support bracket is bolted to the bulkhead and follow straight down, thats where the plug comes out of the main engine loom. only a very short wire, im unsure which one it goes on off the top of my head.

the other plug is on the alternator loom. they are both identical plugs.

hope that helps si, if not i will get some pics for ya.


kris, doing the sump with the engine still in place, is possible but i imagine not so easy, it was just easier to take the engine out for me, i didnt want it leaking again, although i dont know if ive cured it until its got oil and been running :eek:
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