drove one and i wasnt impressed... but.....

[FDAsh]

red with some black add on\'s looks the balls this is mine (bless her)
 

Don\'t you mean red and carbon?



:spank :Giggle I need your wheels

[neil_jdmr]

I need your rear spoiler but in white!!!  Is that the Feed Afflux or a cheaper copy (hopefull) and is it standard fitment

[FDAsh]

It\'s the Aerofiber copy from the US. Very good though.

FEED Rocket on here/FDUK (I think) was selling a genuine Afflux one if I remember correctly.

[jonny116]

Hi dude,
 
must see your car at the next NE rx7 Mini Meet
 
Neil

Definetly mate, have just posted new pics of mine up.

Is there still talk of a NE mini meet???

[ENVYD]

Definetly mate, have just posted new pics of mine up.
 
Is there still talk of a NE mini meet???

 
yeah one sort of happens every 3 month or so.. but a few people s cars are off road at the moment lol!

[jasonw]

thanks for all the replies, i was out testing cars the other week, and they were, S1 Exige, S2 (NA) Exige, honda S2 Elise(NA), and the what seems to be a dog of an RX7, what i want from the car is it to be very quick and handle well - without massive running costs, it will be a second car, and for the cost of an Elise (honda\'d) i could get a very nice RX7 or preferably a std RX7 that i can improve over time  -i.e when the engine pops, ill go out testing again soon

[Martiny]

Hey Jason, I have a standard one for sale. I am in Surrey , where are you?

[Kevin]

what i want from the car is it to be very quick and handle well - without massive running costs

...........and your after an RX7??....... lol :Giggle








On a completely unrelated note *shameless plug* I also have for sale a fairly standard rx7 with street port and 1500 miles on WGT engine....

[royal]

The Elises are all over any Rx7 in the tight twisties no matter what has been done to the Rex. If anything a very powerful Rex is often slower through tight twisties with anything but a good driver as it needs to be drove a lot more carefully and the wheels will be spinning a lot. On the other hand the Rex will annihilate the Elise on any straight and most bigger corners. Its a lot harder to be a hooligan in the Elise when its dry as they are so grippy and spin with less warning.

The other thing is that coming from a straight 6 bimmer you are used to having low down torque and not needing to keep the engine in higher rpm. A Rex should always be drove around 5k rpm or more to get the best out of the engine. Rexs only get big power BHP graphs because they Rev so high. If you limit them to the same Revs as other cars then they often have a lot less power. Once you learn how best to drive the Rex it really rewards you. The feeling, sound and response of a high reving rotary gives a buzz that no other car can give!

[BlitzBoy]

without massive running costs

Thats not going to be a FD3s RX7 then :rollin
Got to remember most of the FDs out there are well over 15 years old and a lot of stuff needs replacing now eg suspension,bushes,wiring etc etc, most of the other cars you quote are a lot younger and therefore their running costs are a lot lower

[jasonw]

how much is it going to cost to run, even if i have to change all suspension parts, brakes and engine mods it must still be cheaper than buying an elise then honda conv and suspension/brakes to cope which all in would be 20-25k
 
what sort of running costs are you guys seeing, i am aware of 3k oil changes

[lockwood77]

It\'s all the things that could go wrong mate, from little niggles (also common on a Lotus I believe!) to a full engine rebuild that is at some point inevitable (albeit maybe not as regular as some would have you believe). As said, the age of the cars mean that annoying things can go wrong - for instance, my central locking is currently kaput. Then things like hoses, wiring, bearings etc. can cause irritation too, whilst there are turbos with a complex system to go wrong (that can also kill your engine), the interior can get scruffy (as on any older car), etc. etc.

The MPG is also horrendous - I see well under 10mpg on track, and that\'s with a mild tune (310bhp on stock twins at standard boost).

I\'m not trying to put you off, these are fantastic cars and extremely rewarding to drive, but I wouldn\'t want anyone to go into ownership thinking that a couple of extra oil changes and a few more trips to the petrol station are all that\'s involved, because there\'s nothing worse than owning a car you love that you can\'t afford to drive or end up resenting because it keeps throwing up new bills.

[jasonw]

whats the last few bills you have seen then
 
 
btw your avatar looks cool, nice car

[lockwood77]

Cheers mate.

I\'ve been lucky (so far!) - I bought the car from Pete Taylor on here, who had looked after it well and laid the best part of £5k on an engine rebuild less than 1000 miles previously. He was also meticulous in his general preparation of the car and pretty much everything was recently tested, serviced etc. Bushes have been done, it\'s running on pretty new HKS Hipermax II dampers, resprayed, even new(ish) tyres were on when I bought it!

I did pay top price for a car of my spec (£8500 in June last year), but to be honest it has proven worth it as I hoped, as I haven\'t yet had any nasties. Don\'t get me wrong, it\'s not perfect, but it is 16 years old!

So, although I haven\'t had any big repair bills, I know there were some previously and I know that if something nasty crops up, it could cost bigtime (which is the same for any performance car, in fairness). The money I\'ve spent has been mainly on mods and setup (a new downpipe and mapping, full geometry setup, water injection to keep intake temps down, little things like a steering wheel, gauges, oil catch tank etc.)

The one fairly large thing I did have to shell out on was brakes - some grooved/drilled discs were on and I fitted Mintex pads, which cracked the discs on track and got so hot the calipers didn\'t look too clever. I ended up getting some secondhand calipers, another pair of new front pads and new discs, costing about £500 all in (fitted myself).

Hope that gives you some idea - if you pick a good one, you can get away with it like I have (up to this point! Another trackday on Saturday....), but you\'ll have to select carefully and probably pay a reasonable amount and even then there\'s no guarantee! I would always go for one with a recent rebuild, preferably still under warranty from a reputable builder (Hayward\'s is good as it lasts for two years and includes track use).

[FDAsh]

The feeling, sound and response of a high reving rotary gives a buzz that no other car can give!

You mean the one that comes on when you hit 8k? :Giggle