Hi guys :)

[James N]

Hi everyone,
I\'m new on here, well, registered a while back but didn\'t end up buying one, but i finally got my hands on a 1990 Turbo II. Picking it up Sat hopefully. Well, hopefully sooner, but work commitments may prevent that!
Any of you guys around my area? Colchester area that is.
Cheers guys,
Here she is by the way,
 
[/IMG]
Ok, that doesnt work!! Any ideas??

[Brett]

Lets try that

Welcome to MRC :wave

[James N]

Hi Brett. Thanks for that. How did you do that? I have another pic i like!!!
 
[/IMG]
 
Can you show that one too?? Thanks

[flatout]

lovely car mate

[Kash_]

Here you go :driving



To add a picture, click on the insert image link above the text box where you write and enter the URL of the image, e.g. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/jamesnolan1981/fcside.jpg

[James N]

Ok mate, cheers! Yeah, i like it quite a bit. When i pick it up i\'ll get started on tuning it a bit! No idea what these go like standard really, i\'ll have to have a look about on here!

[m1tch]

Woo welcome in Just remember to keep it topped up with oil, warm it up before driving it and wait a few minutes before shutting it down for the turbo to cool

Also be careful in the wet as it might decide to fishtale around when you don\'t want it to lol has it got the option ABS?

[James N]

Cheers for the advice mate. I\'ve had a supra, and an S13 so not new to the turbo RWD thing, the rotary thing is all new though!!

[m1tch]

Ok, just make sure that its topped up with mineral oil and is changed every 6000 miles or so, you can see the oil lines just next to the air pump, should be golden, if its black, change it.

Rememeber to warm the engine up fully before boosting ie make sure that the water temp needle is 1/2 way up the gauge and has been there for a bit, this is cause the engine has lots of seals that need to expand and they all expand at different rates.

If looked after a turbo II FC engine should last between 100-125k miles, if you have problems starting when warm, get a compression test done.

Further more if you start the engine DO NOT just switch it off before its got up to temperature as the engine will flood if you try and restart and you would have to go through a whole list of procedures to un-flood the engine.

PS no reving from cold lol

If you go by these guidelines your engine will be happy and so will you be

as another member on the site said:

If its cold, drive it like its broken, when its warm, drive it like its stolen

[James N]

Now that is useful info, thanks mate. I\'d heard to use very good quailty synthetic, mobil 1 etc, just not cheaper synthetics. But its mineral all the way is it?
And you say dont switch it off before its up to temp? What if i only go 4 or 5 miles? How long does it take to warm up?

[m1tch]

There is a big debate on the use of mineral versus synthetic, basically because the oil is directly injected into the engine to lubricate the rotors (hence the requirement for oil at all times) it has been found that synthetic oils sometimes leave a residue in the intake, which is bad, this is why mazda have said to only use mineral oil in rotarys as there isn\'t any residue. Its up to you, but I only use mineral oil, firstly cause its usually cheeper than synthetic and secondly, its always going to be quite fresh anyway as oil changes are ever 6000 miles or so.

With regards to warming up the engine, people have different preferences to what they do, but what I usually do is start the engine and idle it until its just on the bottom of the water temp guage. The engine will be fine to drive around on but not reved and boosted on until the needle is nearer the middle of the gauge.

This will usually take a few minutes, but its worth it to protect the engine as this is a high perfomance engine eg:

Stock turbo II engine = 153bhp per litre
Stock 300ZX engine = 88bhp per litre
Stock Veyron engine = 125bhp per litre

For short distances its ok as long as its nice and warm when driving off, the engine kicks out a lot of heat so it will be up to temp at the end of the drive.

Furthermore, as you have found out/probbaly will find out, as soon as you turn the engine on the car will rev to about 3k revs and then drop to idle, then as soon as you press the accellerator it will go to high Idle. This system is called the AWS (accelerated warmup system) and can be defeated by:

1. Push the clutch down
2. Put the car in first
3. Keep holding the clutch down and then turn the key

This will begin the AWS but then defeat it in a few seconds. If you are in a hurry and you need to get somewhere you can just let it go though the system, but as mentioned before reving a rotary from cold isn\'t good. I usually do the AWS defeat procedue and then just blip the throttle to bring it to high idle, will take a few minutes to get to temp.

If the exhaust smokes a bit on start up, thats normal, this is due to the oil in the engine burning off as its started, which is fine, as long as it clears after a few seconds.

If you have any issues with the car just ask on here but what I will also suggest is that you replace certain parts of the car that might fail and cause engine damage, these are \'safety mods\' and are a good idea to check or replace:

1. HT leads - the leads on you car might now be 18 years old and are notoriously thin and might break...this isn\'t good
2. The power steering cooler pipe (the pipe running in front of the radiator) WILL leak due to rust and corrosion
3. Fuel pump - This will also be old, it is recomended to either change it with a Walhbro 255lph pump or rewire it to ensure that the engine has fuel.
4. Run some Redex injector cleaner though the system to clean out the injectors

Causes of engine failure:
1. No oil
2. Engine runs lean
3. Overheating

If you have a UK car it should be ok to run on 95, but 99 RON or Vpower should be used in these engines, you will notice a big difference between the 2 fuels, I personally go for 99 RON as my car seems to have been chipped, if your car is a Jap import then it will be mapped to 100RON and MUST be run on high octane.

Fuel economy of a turbo II:
Best possible = 25mpg
Town driving = 16mpg (thats what mine is anyhow)
On boost for prolonged time = sub 10mpg

[TiddlesRX7]

I get nearer 28mpg on the Mway not that I would notice the 3 extra mpg! And like you say round town between 11 and 15 mpg and on boost sub 10mpg.
You will enjoy this car. And although it seems like there is a lot to remember (do and don\'ts) They really arn\'t that bad to look after aslong as you follow the golden rules from above.
Also like said above if you want to know anything, just ask on here (there is no such thing as a stupid question).

[grinder]

28 mpg - bloody hell - i have never ever seen those sorts of numbers

i think on the way down to RS5 i averaged about 17mpg and that was a steady 75 ish

saying that - its an auto - so they are supposed to be more thirsty - but not that much

maybe decatting it is a good idea

[dthebuk]

Stock turbo II engine = 153bhp per litre

im pretty much sure that that isn\'t for fuel displaced, but physical size

[TiddlesRX7]

Ok so it was more like 27.8 mpg. And it was last year before I put this new ECU in. Having said that I seems to be better fuel economy now at Mway speed.