Update! Boost Problem Including Pics And Vids!!!!

[BioMech]

Ok here we go. this thread kind of continues from this onne and it\'s first posts http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47871

I found out that the car felt lazy on the secondary boost area. now i fitted an autometer boost gauge and JR intake kit +Forge Twin Blow off\'s today with a friend.

Now it looks llike the first turbo is working very well indeed. hitting 0.7-0.8 bar but then when the revs go to 4500, the engine note changes to something weird. you could say like a tv with white rain (no broadcast) just a little lower tone. same time the boost starts to drop FAST. it can drop as low as 0.1 bar! there was few non filmed runs where it kept maybe like 0.2 bar or 0.3, but still after 4500...the boost comes down! you can even here the engine note change on the vids below!!!!!!!

the upper blow off seems to work 110% but the lower hasn\'t even opened once!!!!!! so there is deffo some ****tttt wrong!


here is some footage from the test run we had few minutes ago. also there is some pictures of the assembly. I WILL get a proper plug for the airpump when i get to a store again. this was made wit the hoses he had that time.

VIDEO LINKS:


http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_016.flv
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_017.flv
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j235/CK993/REX/Videos/?action=view¤t=VIDEO_019.flv

PHOTOS

[neil_jdmr]

My money is on a split hose fella,
 
Check all over that area with the non standard bov\'s would be my guess.
 
I had a similar prob until i found the hose to the front bov was seriously cracked through heat exposure. Also i tried a hks sssq bov taken from a pulsar gtir with a reducer to get it to fit to my fd and that also caused me to lose boost on the second.
 
Any leak\'s ANYWHERE cause you to lose boost and it mostly shows on the second turbo due to the nature of the sequential system.
 
It could be plugs or earths but!!!!
 
My 2p mate check again for leaks.

[arrouk]

check the air by pass valve and pipe work (the bov fed from the rear section of the y pipe not the center) and make sure it is fed from the correct place, ie not just any boost/vacume source.

i say this as it sounds like all the boost been made by the second tub is been vented and this port is designed to do that till the change over at 4.5k rpm.

hth
matt

[BioMech]

check the air by pass valve and pipe work (the bov fed from the rear section of the y pipe not the center) and make sure it is fed from the correct place, ie not just any boost/vacume source.

i say this as it sounds like all the boost been made by the second tub is been vented and this port is designed to do that till the change over at 4.5k rpm.

hth
matt

the USA guys mazdarx7 club. are saying that the rear bov is leaking. but they were installed today and they were plug in type intems. i used the exesting vacuum hoses that were fitted to the old plstic ones. i fitted those silicone hoses to replace the old ones that joined them to the turbos (seen in the pics) what if i take the vacuum hose away from the rear bov (charge relief valve as original) and just plug the hose??? so the bov won\'t see any vacuum or boost.

could it be the charge  control valve next to it that is not opening at all to hit pressure to the system?

[arrouk]

ok i would try 2 things.

1) swop the bov\'s around to proove they are both goo, as if its this there will be no boost on first tub.

2) try swoping the vac pipes for the bov\'s and see if the fault follows, same result as above

if 1 then replace the bov, if 2 then its prob the solenoid in the rats nes.

matt

[BioMech]

ok i would try 2 things.

1) swop the bov\'s around to proove they are both goo, as if its this there will be no boost on first tub.

2) try swoping the vac pipes for the bov\'s and see if the fault follows, same result as above

if 1 then replace the bov, if 2 then its prob the solenoid in the rats nes.

matt

ok i doubt the bovs are faulty, but do you mean that when i change the vacuum hoses, the first turbo shouldn\'t boost at all? meaning the solenoid if jammed.

we are stillthinking about plugging the vacuum to the CRV? will it blow something?

[arrouk]

i wouldnt just plug the crv vacume as the boost from the second tub wouldnt be vented and would hold the flap closed (i think, ive been single for 18 mths).

if you swoped the vacume lines for the bov/crv and didnt make any boost the yes i think it is the solenoid.

if you send me an email to arrouk@ntlworld.com ill send you my phone no. that way you can ring me if you get stuck.

just on my way out now so ill mail you in the morning.

matt

[leon]

This is your friend.

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboTroubleshooting.htm

Reading through this i would personaly check some of the simple things first (check valves) as they are all easy to get to and you shouldbeable to check they are truely "one way"

just thinking back i had exactly the same symptoms where my engine would boost perfectly fine on 1st but not on 2nd what i did was replace all vacume pipes and check valves under the uim but that didnt fix it, i later looked down the side where the bovs are (underneeth that big black tube) there are more vacume hoses for me these were all brittal and infact had holes in! replaced these and i got my 2nd turbo back.

[Fish]

When I first got my FD I had pretty much the same issue. It turned out that the actuator arm for the flap from the second turbo had come off.

Popped it back on with a new circlip and away went the issue.

Fish

[BioMech]

I noticed last night that now the car was like loosing the first turbos boost aswell if i floor it to 4500 and above and then make a quick gear change letting the revs drop below 4500. the boost would come back if I just let the revs really drop and floor it again.  won\'t boost with the second turbo at any point tho.

[BioMech]

there was a good topic/write somewhere by a guy who had similar problems as i have now. i remember it was some solenoids spring that was too tired to keep up. anyone know this text/topic/write up?

How much will those solenoids usually cost and does someone have good spare ones i could buy?

[BioMech]

i haven\'t tested tthe charge control actuator as mentioned here
But when the car idles and i give it some higher revs, i can see the actuator moving a little. is this normal aswell?

[Jono FD3]

Garentee it is your solenoids fitted at the front of your UIM, they are held on to it by 2 10mm bolts, change these & I would say all your problems will disapear

Jono

[BioMech]

Garentee it is your solenoids fitted at the front of your UIM, they are held on to it by 2 10mm bolts, change these & I would say all your problems will disapear

Jono

I actually found out that the noise i heard after 4500 dropped like 80% after i re-installed the original CRV. The problem remains tho. this seems to tell me that the CRV is leaking the boost out after 4500 rpm! the noise was just ALOT louder with the forge unit! I\'m king of happy that i installed the Forge BOVS, as now i can thell where the leak is.

Does this sound like some jamming solenoid or something?

[arrouk]

in that case it will be the solenoid, do some reserch on the rats nest and re do the lot, or go non seq.

i think carl haywood still does the conversion for a good price and he will reverse it if you dont like it. i found it much nicer to drive and a lot less hassle as i didnt need all the rats nest.

matt