one alloy unusually hot compared to other three??

[dooby69]

hello
i have been recently restoring my uncles rx7 that he promised to me as a kid
it has been parked up since 2003 as the back arches had rusted away i have had the body work done and solved hard cold starting/easy flooding by replacing the leads dizzy and rotor the leads were factory original the dizzy and rotor were last changed in 93.
i took it out for a ten minute drive up and down the cul de sac as the brakes had started to stick i was surprised they hadnt seazed alot earlier
after the drive i felt the alloys and the front drivers wheel was hot to touch compaired to the other 3 cold to touch but when i was driving the car it didnt feel like the brake was stuck on any ideas what i should check there?
also i noticed like a clicking on the rear passangers wheel while left lock is aplied slowing down any thoughts?
thanks in advance
how do i post images?

[dooby69]

[RobbieRX-7]

If i were you i would overhaul all the brakes, new seals new pads and new fluids

[dooby69]

[Brett]

You might have a brake dragging, as Robbie has said, you need to gove the brakes a good going over, the clicking could well be a ball joint or a bush.

[dooby69]

i am expecting some bushes to be dead as they are all original this car have never really been ragged my uncle bought it when it was 2 year old the rear arches had rotted out(thats why it came of the road) but the chassis is solid as my grandad religously waxoiled it its on its second engine from mazda the one in the car cost my uncle just over £1000 fitted by mazda in 92 i think.
the original engine did 39000 miles before it threw a rotor it was banging about my uncle carried on driving it one one rotor for a cpl of months before getting it into mazda for a recon unit
 the car has done 80000  garaged most of its life thou  work and back thats it  my grandads  car was used as a  run around

[oldone]

the clicking could well be a ball joint.......

?:guinness

Deffo brakes binding dude,you have got a one wheel braking car !!!!!!!!.....strip and clean\\service the whole brake system.1st Gen brakes have to be spot on.

[dooby69]

was gonna say they shud have half shafts no ball joints lol thanks for the input iv got a y reg that i broke for parts so i think ill take the calipers of that one and overhaul them

[oldone]

Tis true,.........Brett thinks 1st Gens are front wheel drive.......:Hammer  Wally :p  he is,mind you,he is so young he still shaves with bus tickets !!:guinness

[dooby69]

he is 2 year older than me lol i dont see myself getting this car on the road for a few years  i have no claims yet iv also got a swift gti in the garage.
i was thinking of putting it in for an mot to see exactly what it fails on my uncle got a quote for £150 insurance classic on limited milage not a problem for him he is 51 with 10 year no claims

i know for a fact itll fail on the exhaust it currently has a jam speed mild steel manifold on it has done 10 years and has started blowing where the 2 pipe come together under the middle of the car and the back box on it is rotting its also 10 year old iv putty\'d and bandaged the end of the manifold just to take the bark out of it when i run it iv bought a racing beat manifold stainless steel and have had a quote of £290 to have a manifold back stainless steel exhaust system fitted

i need to fix the electric windows everything else works i understand its the switches that go on the windows and was concidering wiring some relays in as iv seen on a post to take the high load from arching on the contacts
its neverending with cars i know that from doing my swift up n i aint quite finished that yet been side tracked for the past 6th months only just getting back into working on my cars they havent seen the light of day

[Brett]

Tis true,.........Brett thinks 1st Gens are front wheel drive.......:Hammer  Wally :p  he is,mind you,he is so young he still shaves with bus tickets !!:guinness

Just gonna go and stick my head in the oven..... :yes :rolleyes:

Anyway, stop showing your age - Bus pass? I use an Oyster! :flamed

[dooby69]

i am jus avin a jack daniels thought id ask some questions thanks everyone one other thing i was wondering the 12a in the car hasnt been touched since fitting in 92 it became hard to start ie my uncle would jus pull the choke out n flood the week spark n ring me up worrieing cos it wont start
i took the plugs out spun it over etc n when starting it just turned it over no choke n just touched the accellerator 2  in n out about 1cm for a second then a second or 2 later it would fire the petrol i just pumped in n could catch it with the throttle n pull the choke out to keep it alive if you tried to start it on the choke it would just flood

but once id changed the leads rotor n dizzy it started as normal on the choke but on tick over it would still drop to about 700rpm n the engine would shake as though it was going to cut out i first put this down to the old leads but as it isnt iv turned the fuel mixture screw up to stop the engine shaking it now is sitting solid at 900rpm
i did a compression test on it with a normal piston engine comp tester holding the button in n watched the needle as the engine was turned over it was steady slightly over 7 for both rotors on every stroke but when it was ticking over slightly lumpy there was a routene to it i was worried about 1 tip goin on one rotor thats why i comp tested it
as soon as you reved it over 900 though the power was there as expected n there is no hesitation goin over 3000rpm

[dooby69]

i am jus avin a jack daniels thought id ask some questions thanks everyone one other thing i was wondering the 12a in the car hasnt been touched since fitting in 92 it became hard to start ie my uncle would jus pull the choke out n flood the week spark n ring me up worrieing cos it wont start
i took the plugs out spun it over etc n when starting it just turned it over no choke n just touched the accellerator 2  in n out about 1cm for a second then a second or 2 later it would fire the petrol i just pumped in n could catch it with the throttle n pull the choke out to keep it alive if you tried to start it on the choke it would just flood

but once id changed the leads rotor n dizzy it started as normal on the choke but on tick over it would still drop to about 700rpm n the engine would shake as though it was going to cut out i first put this down to the old leads but as it isnt iv turned the fuel mixture screw up to stop the engine shaking it now is sitting solid at 900rpm
i did a compression test on it with a normal piston engine comp tester holding the button in n watched the needle as the engine was turned over it was steady slightly over 7 for both rotors on every stroke but when it was ticking over slightly lumpy there was a routene to it i was worried about 1 tip goin on one rotor thats why i comp tested it
as soon as you reved it over 900 though the power was there as expected n there is no hesitation goin over 3000rpm

[Brett]

Given that you had consistent pressure readings I doubt its a sticking seal, are all the butterflies moving freely?  I\'m clutching at straws here, 95% of my Rotary knowledge is only valid after 1986... :Giggle

[dooby69]

thanks next time i go up ill check do i just take the air filter off and get some1 to rev it while i watch to see if they are free?
when i was trying to adjust the idle i found it difficult to increase the revs i turned it 2 full turns n little happened i had to adjust the air screw 2 but iv marked them so i know where they were originally
i did the comp test with a cold engine is it advisable to do one once its warm?
the car starts no problem when warm but takes about 5-7 seconds of cranking when cold with the choke out
when you first fire it up its a little croakey and doesnt want to rev to the 3000rpm set by the choke takes about 10-15 seconds at a guess to kick in and rev properly but once warm revs beautifully in fact it revs nicely once its got over the inital start