Differences between the fc 13b and the fd.

[mr.bishi]

As per title really,

What are the differences between the turbo 2\'s 13b engine and the fd\'s? Is the power difference just down the the turbos/intercooling or is it anything to do with the block. Have their been any major block improvements between the two?

Thankyou:Thumbs-up

[Brett]

IIRC the water channels are different and the exhaust sleeves are also different.

[BlitzBoy]

the ports are a different shape and Sizes I believe as well as the rotors being different. The FD primary and secondary ports being bigger, there is other differences in the bearings as well

[12A]

Surprised no ones mentioned the extra turbo which is the main difference why the FD makes more power.

[12A]

btw do a search on ausrotary, it\'s all been covered in the reference section

[mr.bishi]

Surprised no ones mentioned the extra turbo which is the main difference why the FD makes more power.

I did in my original post :Laugh

The reason i ask is i\'m thinking of using a 13b as a donor engine for my celica and wondered if it was worth the extra cash shelling out for an fd set up,or whether i could just as easily and safely achieve the 250 - 300 mark with the fc?

[Brett]

250-300 easy with the 13BT stuff :yes

[shaunwil]

Use the cash difference to port to the FC engine and redo the seals.

Shaun

[Grizzly]

I\'m missing the point a bit, Are you asking which car is Potently the best for the money? or which has the better engine? (I.e. transplanting an FD engine into a t2 shell)

Side by side with mild mods the FD is always going to win because it is a newer Gen, but there is a price to pay. The T2 is going to cost about the same as a Dodgy FD (don\'t even think about buying a cheap t2 unless you have had it on a ramp and it has a Floor in it ), the FD from my experiance is more of a weekend car, costs allot more to insure, Fuel costs seem to be allot more, the engines running the Twins can be a pain in the rear (old vac pipes tend to crack and cause Boost problems etc) but all that said the Fd has more Presence on the road (looks like a 100k super car) and in the right hands needs very little to make really quick with balanced handling. But the T2 is Simple and tends to be more reliable (also runs less hp so engines don\'t wear as quick) But "RUST" is a major killer of T2\'s and this should be really looked into before buying one.  

SO... take me as an Example, i had a very powerfull T2 Vert with a Big T04R turbo and all the bits to go with it, i got wasted (and i mean really done over) by a 300rwhp Fd that stood the owner at half what my car owed me, So now i own an FD simple as that. I see it as a Newer Gen it has had more R&D put into the Fd to be more of a "Out of the Box" super car killer but the FD does demand ALLOT!! more respect than the T2, but as you get the power up to the same sort of level the t2 will also start to become unreliable as the car was made to handle 200hp and you will effectively dubble that.

[m4drx]

the fd engine isnt almost falling out due to rust :rollin

[Grizzly]

I\'m missing the point a bit, Are you asking which car is Potently the best for the money? or which has the better engine? (I.e. transplanting an FD engine into a t2 shell)

Side by side with mild mods the FD is always going to win because it is a newer Gen, but there is a price to pay. The T2 is going to cost about the same as a Dodgy FD (don\'t even think about buying a cheap t2 unless you have had it on a ramp and it has a Floor in it ), the FD from my experiance is more of a weekend car, costs allot more to insure, Fuel costs seem to be allot more, the engines running the Twins can be a pain in the rear (old vac pipes tend to crack and cause Boost problems etc) but all that said the Fd has more Presence on the road (looks like a 100k super car) and in the right hands needs very little to make really quick with balanced handling. But the T2 is Simple and tends to be more reliable (also runs less hp so engines don\'t wear as quick) But "RUST" is a major killer of T2\'s and this should be really looked into before buying one.  

SO... take me as an Example, i had a very powerfull T2 Vert with a Big T04R turbo and all the bits to go with it, i got wasted (and i mean really done over) by a 300rwhp Fd that stood the owner at half what my car owed me, So now i own an FD simple as that. I see it as a Newer Gen it has had more R&D put into the Fd to be more of a "Out of the Box" super car killer but the FD does demand ALLOT!! more respect than the T2, but as you get the power up to the same sort of level the t2 will also start to become unreliable as the car was made to handle 200hp and you will effectively dubble that.

OOps didn\'t read the thread properly.

For the love of God DON\'T use a Rotary as a transplant motor into a Heavy shell. I have had a serious hit on my Rotary faith recently and when i look back at my Sisters Supra and my Best Mates Escort Cosworth which are both close races with my FD, they have not spent a Minute in a garage other than for service work where as mine has been of the road for the best part of half the time i\'ve owned it, They also make better Every day drive around town cars too, I\'ve been seriously thinking of selling up and Buying something more reliable for a while now, its not so bad when its going properly  but i\'ve not got it to a stage where the Motor is 100% and because its a 14 year old wiring harness i\'ve got a bad wire somewhere now and its developed an Intermittent fault :Grrr .

[Grizzly]

Ask yourself why this is getting popular http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wSQ0vYXX_4&mode=related&search=

[Brett]

the fd engine isnt almost falling out due to rust :rollin

 Most of the 2nd gens left are pretty solid, the dodgy ones have fallen by the way side these days.  
 I\'m frankly sick of this kind of generalisation - Yes the 2nd gen Rx7 can suffer from rust, but you show me a car built in the 80\'s that doesnt! :Grrr

 Also - I\'ve seen a few FD\'s where the tin worm is starting to get hold - have you checked yours lately? :Giggle

:rollin :driving :wave

[Prof]

Differences:
 
13BT mounts are in the centre of the engine, on the 13B-REW they are on the rear housing.
 
13B-REW has better (more) oil passages and water ways so cooling is better
 
The 13B-REW castings are stronger - so utimately will take more power
 
The LIM (lower inlet Manifold) and UIM (upper inlet manifold) are different and the porting wider on the 13B-REW

[Grizzly]

Most of the 2nd gens left are pretty solid, the dodgy ones have fallen by the way side these days.  
 

I\'ll take your word for that

Frankly 99% of the UK Turbo 2\'s i\'ve come into contact with over the years (and thats allot) have all ether wanted or Had extensive welding to keep them MOT\'d, what worries me is how well the rust is Repaired, on other cars i\'ve seen patches stuck on with Sykoflex just to get an MOT (which is shocking)

And O YES!! FD\'s Rust and rust Bad, the thing is 70% of FD\'s are Imports so they come over with no rust at all anywhere, so if the owners have brains they get them Rust protected as soon as they get here (unfortunately most don\'t). Have a look about at some of the UK fd\'s and you will get an idea of where they go. But the good thing about fd\'s is its usaly Cosmetic Rust and not Structural like T2\'s but give it time and you\'ll start to see them.