Air Temps

[m4drx]

hi guys,

i know this has been discussed and ive read up before but i wanted a few facts.

anyone who came on the recent london traffic run will know what im on about.

anyway can anyone clearly give thier opinion on what temps are safe?

ie

xx to xx too low     yy to yy pefect  and   zz to zz to high and !! to !! boom?

also some thoughts on relocating your air temp sender as i decided against it before and though mazda new what they are on about but since i have begun to think otherwise.

clive, carl ross etc your thoughts wold be much appreciated! :Thumbsup!

[Kash_]

I reckon anything above 55C is not good when boosting... if your moving slowly along traffic then its okay...

[m4drx]

mine hit 78!! :eek

plus i couldnt get them down quick enough for the tunnels and it just seemed liek it wouldnt go below high 60s for the whole night then on the m25 at like 4am down to mid 30s

hence me asking as 50+ annoys me and now i think i will be getting a new sender.

[Laeeq]

In these hot summer days you can\'t do much about the air temps as such if you are stuck in traffic till you move and hit the open road again.  Thats why i have just got the oil temps guage on and it gives me the temps inside the engine so that i know when to wot or not till the temps are steady:Thumbsup!

[m4drx]

i have 3 water temp displays i.e stock , apexi and aftermarket 2 x pressure and 1x oil temp
doesnt make em any colder though

[Kash_]

thats the problem with the air temp sensor location, its right under above the engine, hence it gets heat soaked big time. I\'ve had my air temps at 80C before I put ducting around my intercooler

[nikp]

I don\'t think it\'s a problem with the air temp sensor being where it is. After all, if the upper inlet manifold heat soaks, then so does the air in the upper inlet manifold. It\'s reading a valid temperature. Locating elsewhere is akin to sticking it out the window: it\'s nice and cool, but not realistic to the actual temperature in your inlet.

What would be a good idea is putting some insulation under the upper inlet manifold, to try and stop the heat soak so much.

I was seeing mid 40\'s yesterday with a v-mount intercool. The ambient air temps were about 26/27, possibly higher. So that\'s about 18ish over ambient, which aint great, but is still not bad.

[m4drx]

mid 40s i would consider spot on for mixed driving.

i get your point also but i think that the air going through the uim when you boosting is going so quick it cant really soak can it? boost is when it matters i think as the density of the air compared to what the ecu reakons it is could mean lots of cool dense air and no fuel to balance?

[nikp]

The heat soak occurs due to the heat coming off the engine. It just heats the UIM up like it\'s been in an oven. It\'s very hard to then get that temp down.

For example, on a hot day, drive your car, let it get nice and warm. Then turn it off, go away and leave it for 30 minutes or so. When you come back and switch the ignition on, you\'ll see the air temps are already very high.

[John Yorke]

I agree the sender imo is in the right position as it gives the temps on entering the engine, traffic will always be a problem with smic and fmic due to size and pipe runs, one of the advantages I found on the old car running with the charge cooler in traffic it never seemed to get above 45ish which I thought was OK, give it some WOT coupled with the WI and temps would plumit to low 20\'s:Thumbs-up
The new car I am running with the PWR V mount and I seem to be getting similar readings.
I would be more concerned with my water / oil temps anything above 90/95 in traffic I would start to worry, this would indicate to me your rad aint doing its job, inlet temps \'should\' not kill your engine - might put it into limp mode but wont kill it!
On track with my original FMIC I would see 65\'s on a regular basis which is getting on the high side, one of the reasons for trying different setups........all in the cause of research:Thumbs-up

[nikp]

Actually, 90/95 water temps are high. That\'s quite normal (Remember that the twin turbo standard FD the low speed fans only come on at this point. Very high speed setting comes on at 110 or something - still not a problem). 100 degrees coolant is not boiling. Many ordinary cars normal operating temps are actually 95, and therefore the RX-7 actually runs cooler most of the time.

[m4drx]

research aye


exactly what i wanted John

i just keep thinking that most people dont even worry about air temps very much in most cars but i was wondering how much it affects the rotary.

does the apexi have limp mode?

i am runing base map but i have a boost controller set so that boost doesnt exceed 0.70 bar

[m4drx]

Actually, 90/95 water temps are high. That\'s quite normal (Remember that the twin turbo standard FD the low speed fans only come on at this point. Very high speed setting comes on at 110 or something - still not a problem). 100 degrees coolant is not boiling. Many ordinary cars normal operating temps are actually 95, and therefore the RX-7 actually runs cooler most of the time.

yep, compressed water doesnt boil till about 120+ i think but anything above 115 and i would be worried.

i have my apexi set so that it switches fans on at 90 so i dont get anything higher than 92 :chat

oil - mine normally sits between 75 and 90 but saturday it hit 100! but again unless that was 120 or something i wouldnt be worried.

[BlitzBoy]

Come on guys you know you wanna install WI.
Rolling around on Sunday in traffic, getting 50\'s, soon as I boost it I hit low 20s after 10 seconds.

Good idea on heat shielding the UIM to prevent heat soak, may buy some from Demon Tweeks

[nikp]

yeah, i have plans to buy some heat shielding. I also plan on getting some WI at some point. Blinkin\' wedding is getting in the way though! :p

Damn those women!