Engine removal (after compression test)

[Mr_7]

hello all after picking up my car yesterday i eventually got it running and had a problem with lumpy idle and not boosting. After carrying out a compression test i found that the rear rotor was 14.4 bar and the front rotor 0.0bar which would explain the idle and boost as its still on twins.

Any way this afternoon i will remove the engine for rebuild any tips welcome. eg is it a self contained lume, is it easyier to tak eout with sub frame, what i need to disconnect etc. any help is much appreiceated. i will also take loads of piks of the rebuild and document it along the way.

cheers Mr_7

[colin777]

how much is compression test lad?

[banned advertiser]

who tested you engine as those readings dont seem right. Good compression on a new engine will 8 or 9 max, where did you get 14 from

[Mr_7]

done the test my self using an old compression tetser on the bottom spark plug hole on each rotor it definitly came up with that i just checked 220psi / 14.4 bar give or take. the equipment probably isnt calibrated any way it still shows there is none on rotor 1 and i removed the plug and u could clearly feel there was none where as rotor 2 was chugging nicely.

also should i take it out with gearbox still on

[Jit]

lol, i was wondering where the 14.4 bar came from! also 0.0 compression? how do you get 0 compression (well unless all 3 apexs are blown i guess?)

Think you better get that rechecked!

[Jit]

removal of the engine looks pretty straight forward....once you got all the crap off, you begin to see it all a lot easier....like ive said in anopther thread, im re-doing the rats nest and it only took me 45 mins to get down to this:

http://jitesh512.fotopic.net/p31396196.html

From here, i can see the top set of gearbox-engine bolts and could easily get to them....the downpipe would need to be disconnected from the cat. obviously id need to remove the battery and IC as well but it doesnt seem to bad to pull the engine on these....and you should be able t o remember where everything goes back

[Mr_7]

yes just taken all the intercooler off and drained the fluids and removed coolant pipes didnt think i would have to remove the plenum chamber il see if i can get around it to the g/box bolts. also if u dont wish to help or post any thing constructive please dont reply to my posts

[Jit]

Err...iirc youre sposed to use the top spark plug hole when compression testing.

[Mr_7]

oh ok. well it still should get compression on rotor one no matter where its measured shouldnt it rotor 2 did? also the plugs in rotor one are fresh oiled.

also when removing the engines should i leave the a/c pump and power steering pump in situ or drain them and take it out with them? and where the lume goes into the bulk head passengers side near the glove box how do i access this to remove with lume if thats the best option

[Jit]

not sure about the ps or ac pumps...with regards to the loom, ive been led to believe that its easiest to disconnect the car loom from the ecu and pull it thru the firewall from the engine side pushing from the footwell and pulling from outside (if that makes sense!)

I stilll think it might be better to compression test it properly on the top holes before you pull it though...

[Eddie]

Hi Mr_7

I cant answer any of your questions but I got a 13B engine removal dvd by trevor lam, answered all of my questions and would have made life really easy if I needed to remove my engine.
Have a quick search on ebay, or try one of the vendors I know rotaryart do a set of DVD\'s which are very good, you may even get a set from someone who has already done a engine removal from the group.

Make interresting watching and will make life easier in the end, and saves waiting for responces from the group.

Cheers

[Jit]

alternatively, you can buy my copy of the bruce turrentine dvd....i decided i dont need it! [/shameless free plug]

[Mr_7]

yes i went on rotary art i like the idea of a 4 box set dvd. what one do you have one2watch and how come u dont need it?

i will be able to remove the engine and ancillarys easy enough just once its out i will need help to check things and rebuild them in the correct oredr using the right torque settings and sequences

[Jit]

got the rotary aviation dvds mate... //www.rotaryaviation.com

[nikp]

Leave air con and power steering pumps in engine bay, still connected to their lines. Remove from engine. Disconnect loom from ECU and push through bulk head - keep connected to the engine whilst it is removed.

Remove engine without gearbox and downpipe (i.e. Remove downpipe first, and leave gearbox in place)