What electric water pumps and fans are people using

Started by Eddie, March 28, 2006, 10:38:38 PM

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Eddie

I was wondering if anyone can help me please, I have installed a trust FMIC and going to put in my ally rad in shortly keeping my air con by the way,

I have been thinking of extra ways to keep temp down
1) electric water pumps, I see useig the search that a few people are running these so if you could answer a few questions for me it would be appreciated.
What electric water pumps are people using and how do you have them connected. do they just join in line some how to the water system between the rad and engine? and how are you running them when the car is shut off? or are people just running them during driving and using a turbo timer to keep the engine running to cool things down thus using the pump.

2) larger Fans but not much room, I have searched and seen that people have the PFC values changed so that the fans can come on sooner I dont have data logit and still not had the car tuned yet, can the thermostat be changed ( I checked a thread which says an MX5 stat can be used and kicks in a little earlier than the rx7 stat can anyone confirm this?


Any help and advise would be great

Thanks

t2rew

im using an craig david ewp.
not really sure if its a good thing or not. the only real benifit is i can, and do turn the car off but with the ignition still on so the pump runs. this cools the car down with out heat soak.

skybusr34

where do you install it.??  on the lower pipe going to the rad?
if i had 8 hour to cut down a tree. i`d spend 6 sharpening the axe

t2rew


t2rew


John Yorke

Works very well IMO, been running this for a year now, track work have never seen more than 90 on the pfc as TREW says leave yer ignition on and it helps to prevent the heat soak. Never had to resort to bigger fans, this time of year it is a struggle to get water temps above 75 :2eek
Phill G has a smaller - thicker rad [about 2/3rds the width of stock{allows for cold air inlet to turbo}] with a single fan and this is a man that laps the ring in sub 8mins oh and he runs a craig david never heard a complaint about water temps with this setup.

skybusr34

if i had 8 hour to cut down a tree. i`d spend 6 sharpening the axe

Jonathan_F


John Yorke

I do know REworx sell this a complete kit to suit the FD

Tintin

When your using a EWP do you still keep the stock belt driven pump or do you get rid of it ???


Finally tuned - 317.3rwhp :burnout (thats 374.4fwhp for those who like bigger numbers)

12.8@110.64 at RS4:Thumbs-up

clive

You use a blanking plate to replace the waterpump.
All the best Clive

Tintin

Cheers clive ,

just out of curiosity how do you fill the coolant up if the pumps blanked off , also do you remove the AST ??

Don\'t suppose you know if theres a how to on the full mod anywhere ??


Finally tuned - 317.3rwhp :burnout (thats 374.4fwhp for those who like bigger numbers)

12.8@110.64 at RS4:Thumbs-up

John Yorke

Quote from: TintinCheers clive ,

just out of curiosity how do you fill the coolant up if the pumps blanked off , also do you remove the AST ??

Don\'t suppose you know if theres a how to on the full mod anywhere ??

2 options:

1: retain the ast

2: insert a filler at the highest point of the system

Dont think I have seen a \'how to\' anywhere tbh

t2rew

Quote from: TintinCheers clive ,

just out of curiosity how do you fill the coolant up if the pumps blanked off
from the normal place. the holes for the water to curculate are still behind were the pump used to be.

Tintin

Right for some reason this whole eliminate the belt driven water pump isn\'t clicking in my head , so can some one walk me through the whole thing , still trying to decide whether to do it or not and if I understand the ins and outs it might help me decide

Heres how I understand it so far ,

You place the EWP ( which one by the way as I see they do a few , what flow rate ) inbetween the lower rad outlet and the engine

This is where the confussion starts is it best to remove the whole waterpump assembly ( as per clives pic above ) and blank it off ? if you do this you lose the coolant filler point and the thermostat and one of the nipples that goes to the AST and if I remember correctly the coolant temp sensor, so you either use the AST as the filler point ( what to do with the inlet that used to come from the waterpump ?) or you eliminate the AST and put a new filler point in the system and wheres the best place to put the temp sensor , also am I right in thinking that losing the thermostat will only cause the engine to warm up slower due to the cold coolant running around the whole system and the fans will still come on as before as they are controlled via the temp sensor ???

OR

Is it possible to just remove the actual pump out of the pump housing thus leaving all the plumbing and fillerpoints as stock

Geoff at REWorx also mentioned something about changing the pressure cap on the system

2 Reasons I\'m looking into this are mailnly from what I\'ve read about peoples opinions of this you end up with a cooler more reliable cooling system and secondly its not much more than buying underdrive pullies which would then not be needed

If I\'ve got all this wrong please can you point me in the right direction , if I still can\'t get my head fully round it by the time the engine starts going back in I\'ll probably end up keeping the stock system


Finally tuned - 317.3rwhp :burnout (thats 374.4fwhp for those who like bigger numbers)

12.8@110.64 at RS4:Thumbs-up