Charge cooler vs intercooler pros & cons?

[88GT-R]

Hi all,

John, I disagree with you about Vmounts being too expensive. It is all horses for courses and luckily everyone has their own opinion and experiances.

Figures(STD Mazda sensor)
Cruising: 25dgs ambient - app 28dgs intake.
Load @ .94bar: 25dgs ambient - app 34dgs intake.

I will be making a Vmount for an FD next year, and will let you know what we get... it will be at RS05 too.

John

[John Yorke]

Originally posted by scooby_si
so with a charge cooler will running a uprated rad not be a cunning plan for even better water temps, wasnt\' sure what the issue was with upright ones in relation to the airlock keep it in standard position type comments.....?
Si

Very much so, an uprated rad will aid cooling, but most of the after market rads are designed to go in the stock position and therefore the inlet and outlet pipes are angled which when putting the rad upright / near upright cause the air locks ect. To go down that route I would suggest a custom made jobbie similar to Clives.

John - I hear what you are saying, but buying a charge cooler for £700ish + some plumbing is relatively cheap compared to a v mount kit including bonnet ect. Look forward to seeing your set up @ RS11:cool

[Warthog]

I\'m with the Yella Fella on this one. I have purchased a PWR Charge Cooler Kit and will be fitting it after xmas. I have fitted a PWR uprated radiator, goes in the stock poition with a very small tweek. I have also got a new thermo that opens at a lower temp as i want the engine to get up to optional temp then let the cooler water flow.As i see it this is all about balancing the mods to increase bhp with the temp gains due to the heat produed by more power. I know that sounds obvious, but some people always look for an easy answer to problems. I feel that this is the way forward in keeping my temps down. I have looked at what Geff has done and taken his advice for what i want from my FD.
      The mods i have done so far are intake, exhaust, pulley kit, 1300cc secondary injectors, upgraded fuel pump, new filter, apexi pfc and commander, larger rad etc, things to be done after xmas, charge cooler, oil catchment tank, boost controler, cold plugs, uprated ht leads, then it can go of geff\'s r/r and be mapped in one go. Everthing i have done is with the view that i will go single at some point and i want everything to be right. I have already fitted a new street ported engine, but even when i have it running as much power as the t/t\'s will permit i\'m not just going to change over to a single without first having the engine stripped down and checked first.
       My view is if you think about your mods and don\'t just rush in then the end result must be better. Just my view.
       I want to have a go at Rotorstock and not blow my engine. The only way I\'m going to do that with a street car is by getting things right.
        When things are complete i will post pic\'s.

[scooby_si]

sounds like a good way to do it matey, no wot am i saying that is stupid bad plan i insist you give me those mods so i can save you from yerself lol
Si

[Warthog]

Smile :cool

[scooby_si]

on a bit of a tangent then trying to get a way round x, y & Z potential issues i also have the intake temp on my power FC commander is it possible to get some kind of gauge, or such like to have a red light, beep wotever to go off when this hits 60 degrees or sumin?
Si

[scooby_si]

as an example i can do no end of water, oil temp things into my HUD defi stuff but can i just get a water temp thing & plug it into air thingy or wire into wherever standard reading is from, round plenum sumwhere?
Er i dunno just wondereding how i can get a warning set up for dodgy intake temps....
Si

[John Yorke]

Originally posted by scooby_si
as an example i can do no end of water, oil temp things into my HUD defi stuff but can i just get a water temp thing & plug it into air thingy or wire into wherever standard reading is from, round plenum sumwhere?
Er i dunno just wondereding how i can get a warning set up for dodgy intake temps....
Si

I would have thought if you have a water temp gauge you leave the commander on inlet temp so that you have both at a glance. Not to sure where the sender for the inlet temp is, I understand it is under the plenham, if you can find out what kind of sender it is you should be able to match it with a gauge, then split the supply so that you have a feed to the ecu and to yer new gauge.

[scooby_si]

yeah i havent rigged anything else to the defis yet but once i get the control unit 2 i can have wotever i want reading on my main HUD so as long as it can be wired into the control unit i can get the temp on the gauge & set it so it set off the red warnign light etc if it went over wotever temp i believe, anyway thats an idea at the minute i have water & intake temps on the control unit which is all good but you gota look at it to know what it\'s doing was just trying to get a plan so it tells me when/if it goes over a certain figure in realtion to the water pump failing on CC potential.
Si (theories & gob shyte http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb008_ZS\' target=\'_blank\'>http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_1_46.gif\' border=0> lol)

[sdminus]

Failing that si why not install a fail safe device in the pipwork like a flow switch or a termocouple wired back to a buzzer or boost controller which could either swtich a device on or off. or both if required.
scott

[scooby_si]

all sounds interesting all i need now is santa to bring me a sack of cash........lol
Si

[sdminus]

Oh contrare rodders!!!no need my son. just need a relay and the switchin device. ie a termocouple ( could be a rad switch ) and wire it up. bish bash bosch........
scott:D

[hmltnangel]

sorry to barge in folks..... just back to the charge coolers etc.....

Lot of folk were sayingthe main problem is the water pump failing.....

Couldn\'t u just set up a warning light/buzzer etc to come on if the pump fails??

Then it\'d be a case of stopping the car unhooking the inlet from the charge cooler so the car drives like a naturally aspirated car - no turbos then drive to the nearest garage(if necessary) take the spare water pump and clips that you have in the boot..... plumb it in (2 minute job) top up the water tthen off you go again?

seems quite simple.

[scooby_si]

can you also totally kill the boost ie the turbos/need for charge cooler etc with a boost controller like a profec II only im looking at getting one anyhow to stop going over 1 bar in high gears & if it has advantages like being used with this potentially & also turning off turbo use in bad weather than i\'m defo sold.....
Si

[hmltnangel]

Thats a good idea Si, I\'m sold on it too ..... definitely going to hook up a warning though and keep a spare wter pump in the car - just in case!