Almost Completely FED UP... help?

[eatmyrx7dust]

How far north and how far east.
I\'m running in at the moment, so may be tempted to cross the mountains!! to put some miles on engine.

Give me a call on 0780...... wait a minute.. I\'ll PM you.

I\'d better not publish mobile no. on forum, you know its full of \'fruit loops\' !!

[hmltnangel]

hey guys, can you keep me up to date whats happening here..... having a very similiar problem - i pm\'d you my number.

heres the full story.....

To begin with my primary turbo was working ace, nice transition to second turbo too but at this point I would lose a few psi of boost

 

Boost pattern was 10.5…..7…..8

 

Couldn’t find anything obvious so decided to attempt the “vac hose adventure”.  All went well with it â€" took me a couple 0of afternoons but I got there. Didn’t take the solenoid rack out but of the 4 hoses you need it out for none of them were hard â€" I think they must have been changed at the rebuild about 18 months ago. Every other hose was changed though.

 

I also replaced the following as there was more damage down there than I knew about

1. Acv Assembly (I cracked it when I was screwing it in!)

2. Air bypass solenoid (the front nipple was snapped off and not connected)

3. Charge control solenoid (same as above)

4. Aluminium Pcv valve as it was busted

5. 2 of the check valves too

 

Got the car back together but it wouldn’t boost above 8 psi regardless so went looking for the cause ….. I did remember that the restrictor pills weren’t as snug in the new hoses as the old ones so I used the smaller diameter of hose and squeezed them in. …. Put it back together and now on primary it’s hitting a slightly dangerous 13/14 psi….. Can’t really check if the second turbo is coming on as I’m very reluctant to boost it that hard with so much boost.

 

Anyways went under for another look on Saturday there and noticed the gasket on the acv was leaking so I replaced that too. Also when I was doing the vac hose replacement I noticed a vac hose that vented to atmosphere â€" as I was replacing the hoses on a one for one basis I left it to atmosphere….. Now a week later in my search for problems I realised that this hose was the second hose in the “impossible to do without removing the solenoids” list and was supposed to be connected to the block….. I then proved that you can JUST replace this one without removing the solenoids and hooked it back up. So put it all back together again and took the car out for a test…… Now it’s doing the same 13/14 psi on the primary. Did keep the foot down longer (still haven’t opened the throttle fully as I don’t want to bust the engine) and kept it boosting around 10 psi  - about ¾ of the throttle and when the revs got a little higher it seemed to “buck” and lose power - hard to explain â€" it just seemed to falter for a bit (bit like fuel cut though not as sudden and no warning on the dash either) so I quickly let the throttle out and continued normally. Tried this again and same thing. I think it might be at the point the second turbo is coming online? Sorry can’t get rpm’s as I had to keep an eye on the cars in front and I don’t want to take it anywhere at the moment if I can help it.

so does seem a little like your problem! My theories are the charge control actuator or te turbo control actuator. It really does sound like the Charge control actuator ..... sounds as though it\'s opening a little but not all the way. I\'ll know more when i get the car back tomorrow -- it was in for the last week getting a boot install done!  Anyhow ive me a phone tomorrow if you like and we can compare notes on it.....

[Luciano]

I don\'t think its the same problem to be honest - mine is almost definitely linked to engine temperature.

My replacement engine coolant temp sensor has arrived (Thanks Dragon) and I\'ll fit it at some point over Christmas (probably boxing day).  

I\'ll let you know how I get on.

Incidentally, if it still doesn\'t work, I\'m going to change the charge control actuator, and if *that* doesn\'t work, I\'m going to send the car to a specialist.

[hmltnangel]

Just pointing out that I normally drive the car like a hearse until the temp guage actually reads halfway..... so i have no idea what it\'s like before that.....could be the same.

[Luciano]

definately not the same problem... you know when my car isn\'t running right because if you apply more than 10% throttle it cuts out and starts backfiring... so doesn\'t matter how gently you drive - you\'d notice!

As an aside... maybe our problems are caused by Mazdaspeed MS01 alloys, I notice we both have them

[hmltnangel]

damn.... probably the only thig i never checked so far!!!:eek:

any idea where to get centre caps? mines have vanished..... you been in scotland recently?

[Warthog]

This may seem daft but a lot of the probs sound like a split gasket sucking in air at the manifold or a primery/secondary injector not seated/worn and sucking in air past  the injector as it fits into the rail.:wave if it\'s the later then you will see a type of black burn mark at the point the air is being sucked in. The reasons for stating above are that the former happened to me and it was poping and banging like a gooden with power failure just when you felt it was all well. This problem got worse over time. The later was also happening without me knowing it at the same time until Geff fitted my FC /Commander and it was hunting when the aircon was switched on. He knew what is was immediately and pulled everything out down to the fuel rails and bingo. I must say i was very impressed when he put it all back together and it sorted the problem.

[Timrxmotors]

Originally posted by Luciano
definately not the same problem... you know when my car isn\'t running right because if you apply more than 10% throttle it cuts out and starts backfiring... so doesn\'t matter how gently you drive - you\'d notice!

Your engine is going into \'limp\' mode,without a doubt.It is probably the metering oil pump.Follow the wiring underneath the waterpump to the oil pump and check for damage.The wire rubs on the belts if not secure properly.If that is OK,get another pump and plug it in to the engine loom,put the pump somewhere out of the way.Test car,and if that cures it,change the oil pump.A pig of a job!

[hmltnangel]

mines has now decided to imitate yours!!!!

any throttle that takes the boost over 2/3 psi the ecu cuts the fuel!



grrrr

Can you tell me where the water pump and oil pump are btw?

[Luciano]

**update**

Changed the engine coolant temp sensor today (quite difficult to get to, but not too tricky).  

PROBLEM STILL THERE

Going to see a mazda dealer tomorrow...     not sure what else to do  :confused:

[Timrxmotors]

Originally posted by Luciano
**update**



Going to see a mazda dealer tomorrow...     not sure what else to do  :confused:

Read my post above!

[Luciano]

Tim,

I saw your post - thanks a lot for responding  

I checked the wiring to the oil metering pump, and it was safely secured and well away from the belts. I was thinking of replacing the oil pump - but as I don\'t know for sure if it\'s the cause, I could spend lots of money replacing the pump only to find out it was something else.

I\'m hoping that if I take it to a Mazda dealer they\'ll diagnose the problem (perhaps using their electronic diagnosis equipment?)  and then I can repair whatever is wrong.

Is there anyway that I can test the oil pump, without replacing it?

I normally use //www.iluvmyrx7.com to download sections of the RX7 workshop manual, but the site has now been removed.  I believe Section D contains information about the metering oil pump..  

Without the manual I\'m not sure if I can diagnose the oil pump as being faulty, unless I replace it..

Any advice greatly appreciate - thanks again for replying

[Carl]

Hi Luciano,
I am sure that Tim would post you one and it may not cost too much.Most of Tims parts are very reasonably priced so you maybe suprised!
Give him a call in the week on 01725 516462
Hi Tim,nice to have you on here helping out a little,we need more of those who work on rotaries to give advice.
Regards
Carl

[Flat_Steve]

I\'d love to find out what\'s causing this as I\'m getting the exact same problem, with varying degrees of severity.  If I\'m stopping and starting all the time now and again it\'ll try to stall with more than 10% throttle, though cycling the ignition usually fixes this.  More often it feels like I\'ve lost 50% power though it\'ll accelerate at 100% throttle.  Building revs up when it\'s like that sometimes produces a very strange sucking (sounds bronchial!) sound between gearchanges.  This has only happened since I\'ve had it serviced and is getting more common...

[Luciano]

I\'ve been fiddling around and I\'ve found out that when the engine warms up and the problem starts, the vacuum at the double throttle control actuator disappears.  Because there is no vacuum, the double throttle control actuator doesn\'t function and this is the problem.  But where does the vacuum go?  Hopefully Mazda will tell me this tomorrow... (my thinking is faulty Double throttle solenoid? - but then why would this only happen when the car is warm?)

I\'m going to a mazda dealer tomorrow morning, will keep you informed.