Rotus Project Build

[Jamie R]

Trying some different things after a spirited drive the other month and managed to get water temps to 120 C for a brief peripd.

As the davis craig water pump controls flow and the ecu controls fans.

Im gonna try removal of the thermostat even with its bypass holes drilled.
A restriction is all it is even if it takes a bit longer to warm up.

Anything is better than running those temps


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[Jamie R]

Well with no thermostat i pootled around town fine, stuck for ages at the lights it got up to 97 C max.

Then back out for a spirited drive down my local dual track. Got the revs up to 8.5 - 9k only saw 88-89 C on the display

Plenty of air flow.... Id say the ducting works fine.

A set of brand new nankang ns2r's in the garage ready to chuck on.

I feel a red hot date on the track coming ....


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[clive]

Great to see this out and about again 

[Jamie R]

So its been 2 years since ive finished the rotus,
Im sure as with any one off build / prototype call it what you will theres gonna be things that need to be changed, updated, and mine is no exception.
Hell i wanted to do things differently during the 5 year build but if you keep stopping starting, youll never get it done.
So after a few decent drives out ive noticed a few things.....
High water temps, this has since been cured by removing the thermostat and she runs lovely.
Need an upgrade on the box of tricks that keeps the can-bus happy, thats in the pipeline.
All grp oarts that are held together with 2 part expanding foam have imploded and distorted the panels. So they will be remodelled re manufactured using different methods.
The bonnet is great at allowing cool air in, but what it does is push hot air from the exhaust down the trans tunnel, therefore the centre console burns my arm, the aluminium seats get red hot, the roll cage gets red hot, the bloody key on the keyring dangling from tge ignition burns my leg in shorts!!!
Needless to say a new bonnet is on the horizon that allows cool air in and hot air out, the design will be completely different.
I "may" even change the whole front end, dont  know yet.
The boot will be changed.
So in the meantime, less shows, more track days. Use and abuse it, then it will become Rotus 2.0 or mk2 or whatever.
And as a wise man from westbury once said, car projects are never finished.


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[Casey]

Nice update Jamie 

Good to see you made it to Bicester and your engine cooling issue is sorted (boy did you need it sorted for that trip, with ambients sky high!).

Next time, wear a fireproof racing suit. Burn problem solved and a bonus too - you are bound to lose some weight by sweating it off   

Nice to see you have some improvement ideas for the Mk II 

[Eccentric shaft]

Nice to see the Rotus is still alive and developing. 

[Jamie R]

 Bloody super unleaded nitro mors??


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[clive]

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggg

[Casey]

     

[clive]

 Bloody super unleaded nitro mors??

Arrrrggggggggggg!

[Jamie R]

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[Jamie R]

Coolant made its way back here.

At least the flat underbody works lol


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[Jamie R]

So ! I have a theory on the high temps.

Me n jon have a difference of opinion here, but thats ok. Id rather have a debate coz im not always right.

Jon thinks my duct to the rad is too small and i think the duct after the rad is a bottle neck and if the air cant get out it cant flow through.

So ive done a Clive, and looked at pics from yesterday to see if i notice anything. And i have a hunch.....

The first pic shows the rear curve of the exit duct and the second pic shows it physically higher than the front lip of the exit duct.

Therefore i think the incoming air is being forced back into the exit duct and nothing is moving at higher speeds, and things get hot.

The simple fix is to stick a gurney flap on the front lip to extend it up and allow the rad to vent out.

Its a hunch..... thoughts?





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[Eccentric shaft]

Fab to see the Orange Monster out running! 
Your theory makes perfect sense to me (for what that's worth). 

[Casey]

Photos are great. Not a clue on the airflow question though