Rotus Project Build

[Jamie R]

http://www.obpltd.com/Pedal-Boxes/Pro-Race-V2/Floor-Mounted-Cockpit-Fit/2-Pedal-Unit-CF/2-Pedal-Unit-CF-Hydrualic-Clutch/Floor-Mounted-2-Pedal-Cockpit-Fit-Hydraulic-Clutch-Pedal-Box-OBP0167PRC

I was looking at the above.

I've not heard of obp before, but they get a lot of praise........

[boosted]

Heres mine, ill dig reciept out as that obp seems quite expensive....
Looking about they seem tobe doing them with flyby wire now too.
Looks like my go pedal pedal offset in piccy. Its not. The ally chequer plate is a little heel bridge as size 8 feet i could get a good pivot/pedal feel...epic now.
Servoless wilwoods dynalites with mintex 1157s awesome brakes...pads dont wear either been in 4 years lol  dont seem to wear out.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Jamie R]

Nice one!

I found obp to be cheaper tbh, oh and the fly by wire pedal boxes are ridiculously priced,
I'll settle for the ergonomics of floor mounted brakes and top hung accelerator like you have considering it all works.

I did consider converting the stock accelerator pedal in to a shortened lever operated by a Bowden cable with a traditional accelerator pedal, but seemed like making work for the sake of it.

Thanks Jon

[Jamie R]

How are your brake lights activated? In line pressure operated switch?

[boosted]

Tilton 600 series..floor or overhung mount. 2 pedal £280 from Merlin.
I use the rx8 clutch and brake switch...2 ally tabs on top of pedals.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[boosted]

Switches behind.
Clutch switch alters idle in neutral. Id set a 1200 rpm idle brings the oil press up.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Jamie R]

Thanks for the heads up Jon.

I can't seem to find tilton boxes, with cockpit mounted master cylinders, I need them pointed towards me because my roll cage will get in the way,

That way I can put my heel board over them, and as the father in law wants to have a play on the track too  I'm making the pedal box adjustable coz he has diddy legs lol.

I think the obp are about 380 something with the bias adjustable cable, the cylinders and the reservoirs...... The link I sent you was a package with the braided lines, but I'll make my own coz I don't know where I'm mounting the reservoirs yet, I can't believe 3 braided lines are 140 quid !!

Anyhow, I pressure tested the tank tonight, 5 leaks......

One pin hole on the undeside.....got sloppy, after 4.5 metres of weld I can deal with 1 pin hole given my limited experience...
3 pin holes around the filler neck, ouch, I'm putting it down to different grades of aluminium, but either or, I've cured them .....

I have a major one around the white plastic fuel pot top..... I noticed on your you tube vid you used some black "jollop" around it.

I've got a 5mm thick flanges welded to the underside of the tank, a homemade viton gasket, the white plastic piece then another 5mm Ali ring clamping it all together,

I think it's coming through the bolt holes, I used 10 bolts........I just wondered what you used to seal your tank? I roof some roof and gutter sealant tonight because it didn't say you can't use it with petrol lol

Didn't know whether you used a polyurethane sealant or something ..................

[boosted]

I used a few materials and the ptfe 1 i made has been onit 3 years no leak. Ill link tilton pedals..demon tweeks.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Jamie R]

The black sealant was PTFE?

[boosted]

Must be looking at old photo..tried hylomar nope. Original rubber seal dried up and cracked..made 1 out of ptfe 1mm thick white sheet i procured from work.  Made a gasket a ring with the stud holes stamped out.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Jamie R]

Evening all,

Got the tank  in place, pressure tested, slight change of plans for the fuel filler neck because some dozy twonk welded a roll cage in the way and didn't check the location.......

Never claimed to be perfect lol.....

Anyway, I'm struggling to find a suitable location for the filler cap, tried mounting it in the boot area, like the mk1 escort rally cars, but can't get enough height without  having the pipe horizontal ....hmmmmmmm

The original location for the filler cap is a no go for the same reason....., the original tank had the fuel entry half way up the tank so I envisage the filling processs long and laborious....

I can cut a new hole in the car no problem, but before I do.....

Can the filler cap be positioned inside the cabin, next to the drivers seat?

Are any production cars from back in the day with a similar set up?

Are there any restrictions on this from a track day perspective  / safety requirements?

I know it may look odd opening the drivers Dood on the petrol forecourt....

The cap is non vented and I'm running a separate vent pipe outside the car......

Appreciate any guidance, even if it just calling me a **** for putting the roll cage in the way

[Jamie R]

Meant to be drivers door........I know the gin is flowing but I'm not that far gone, it's a school night

[boosted]

I think you gotta have to move it so can access from rear...youll dribble fuel all over your seat...need good access for a funnel when using jerry cans etc.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[Jamie R]

Fair point,

I can move the filler cap to the outside near the c pillar area ,

I may need to look at a flush aircraft style filler cap....... Just won't be in keeping with the aesthetics of the period look from the outside

[boosted]

Cant it be on tank inside car just access by opening boot?

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk