Smokey smokey cause?

[JayDee]

The plugs would have deposits on it if burning oil.
If you search the net, there will be pics to show you how they would look.
Have you let the car run for a while it could be just old oil in the rest of the exhaust that needs to turn off, this would need about 15 to 20 mins of driving to do, especially if oil is in the silencers.

[Prof]

Is your oil drain down hill all the way from the bottom of the turbo to the front of the engine? I had smoking issues when there was a section that was a little too level, and the oil couldn\'t drain away properly.  The turbo\'s seals can\'t deal with the excessive oil pooling and will let it by.  There\'s a couple of threads about this over on rx7club as well, which is where I found the info.

[Prof]

The hose off the oil fillet neck is plugged into the centre iron.
Took the oil cap off and started car but still same smokey.
The mechanic where the car is at said it\'s a slight blue tint to the smoke. Definitely oil caused. Engine sounds healthy and smoke start few seconds after car turns over.

Those 2 positions are on the same oil neck pipe - just different locations, so you aren\'t venting crank case emissions to anywhere,  In the stock pipework, the top hose on the oil neck is tee\'d with the fuel vapour coming from the charcoal canister and fed back into the intake via a 1 way valve.

The lower nipple on the centre iron goes to the purge control valve, and during certain rev range it\'s vented into a nipple on the throttle body, again effectively allowing it to be burnt in the engine.

[L18M]

Jaydee: there was a small hole in my do where a new flange was welded on and once engine running, the hole was leaking smoke and some sticky substance onto the exhaust manifold which indicates there something more than just unburnt oil stuck in the exhaust boxes?

Prof: I remember you mention about oil drain in past. The new turbo is slightly higher position than previous turbo bit will double check that and see if I can create more of an angle to the oil drain.

Kinda understand the lines. Is the one way valve within the charcoal canister?
Fed into intake? Which nipple would the intake be?
How many nipples has the centre iron got? I only noticed the one on top where the line from filler neck was plugged in.

Purge control valve, where would that be located roughly?

I\'ll double check in my Haynes manual and try find it.

[Prof]

Here you go :
 
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47624&d=1275136156
 
The 2 nipples on the oil filler neck, one just under where the cap goes, and the other is actually on the centre iron - but they both are effectively on the same pipe ;-)
 
Light blue and brown lines on the diagram.
 
The routing around all the solenoids is a bit confusing.  The one way valve on the stock car setup is actually on the end of the hose that plugs into the intake elbow - small round metal cylinder thingy  (diagram is cut off on the left but shows it as "K valve way")
 
On the stock engine, the Purge valve sits underneath the intercooler, black device about 2" round with 3 nipples - fragile as feck and usually breaks.

[L18M]

That\'s great thanks Dave!

I dont recall seeing a round 2" thing with 3 nipples around the engine bay
I haven\'t even noticed the solenoid valves unless thye hiden under the UIM.

Theres 2 lines from the PCV going into the UIM. I thought the 3 nipples in the UIM were effectively the same line?

[Prof]

Depending on the version of car, the throttle body has 7 or 8 nipples, but they aren\'t all the same - some see the one side of the throttle plates and some the other, so basically you need to work out which is which - I did put a thread up on here about it, but you can sort of work out what lines do what by what\'s plugged into them.
 
What this means is that some lines will hold a vacuum if the throttle is shut, and some are just fed into the intake and will see the same air pressure as the engine if the throttle is open - these lines could have positive pressure on them as they are post turbo, and it\'s for that reason that some of the returns into the induction go upstream of the turbo as there is no pressure there (such as the vapour return from charcoal canister), as you don\'t want to be blowing anything back into the fuel tank!
 
If you\'re engine is fairly modified, then most of those solenoids are probably gone.  I doubt you are using the stock boost solenoid, and the emissions ones are probably gone - so you are only likely to have the PRC solenoid - for the fuel pressure adjustment on warm start, but even that can be eliminated if you don\'t mind feathering the throttle for the 30 seconds that solenoid would be active on a warm start.
 
If you go back to the diagram - solenoids 1 and 3 are for emissions and work with the air control valve - if that is gone so are they.  That just leaves the PRC solenoid for the fuel pressure regulation - that\'s number 2 on the diagram - only active for 30 seconds after a warm start and basically lets the FPR see atmospheric pressure rather than the idle vacuum pressure.  If your FPR takes it\'s vac line directly from the manifold, then you aren\'t using this :-)
 
If you can post some pics up, showing throttle body nipples, oil filler neck area and the area near the UIM from the drivers side view, and also the vac line plumbing from your FPR.

[L18M]

wow. didnt realise there would be so much difference!

ok seems like i\'ve lost 1 and 3 then.
Not sure about 2. Vac line on fpr was taken from TB / UIM

I\'ll try get some pics on sat when i go to the garage to have a poke around.
Would the vac lines issues cause smokey?

[L18M]

anyone tell me where the "oil injector air bleed" the 3 or 4 lines that come off that circular disk, where are they meant to lead to?

[Prof]

This is the so called "spider" - the largest bore hose at the top of the spider should go to the largest nipple on the back of the throttle body, the 4 smaller lines are all different sizes - and go to the injector air bleeds - you can really only lay them out one way or one of the lines won\'t reach ;-)

[L18M]

Ok, had a play around today and after talking to few other people. I think i found the problem. Too much oil going to the turbo.

Its a borg warner s300 tub (new) with a -4 an oil feed. read on many forums -3 or -4 an is ok but seems this is too much on a rotary engine. Not sure how much the oil press differes from rotary or piston (namely supra forums i read they use -4, even fd\'s un the states run -4).

I took off the oil feed to the tub and stuck it down the oil filler neck to stop oil going to tub (not ideal as afraid of starving the tub of oil but risked it to try reduce the possibilities) and started car. some smoke (left over oil in tub from leaking bearings) and it smoked bit more on warmup then if blip the throttle more smoke (burning off residual oil) blue ish tint.

So ordered a 1mm restrictor from OZ and will try that and try burn off the residual oil and hopefully stop smoking but much better / less smoke with this trial method.

thing looking up

Vac lines ok though still need to do little more to tidy up a bit

Thanks for all the help guys
You have no idea how much im still earning