Harness plugs and tach question

[jimmydanny]

Heya, some time since I have been on here, over two months actually. I have sadly enough been busy driving my 03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. Fun car, but I got my 7 on plates last weekend, and the Volvo just paled in comparison. Should not have done that!

Anywho, I might not be selling my 7 after all, I can\'t get what I want for it, and if I can\'t get what I want, I\'d rather keep it in my fathers garage.

So this summer I was thinking about unwrapping the harness in the engine bay, swapping bad connectors and wires, soldering and heat wrap, then the sticky icky black tape.

But I got a bit of a problem. As far as I know, the connectors are made by Bosch, but I would need names for all the connectors on it. The biggest culprit to any potential issues is the... wow, one month without my 7 and I forgot the name, the distributor-thingy. Anyways the 4-wire connector there, which is also on the coils.

But basically, I would love to get a name for all of them so I could source them and replace them ALL instead of putting 1000£ in a new harness, just not worth it when you are as handy as me :Ladys-man

Also, I have an issue with my tach.

Weirdly, it doesn\'t seem to be the tach, the wiring or the coil, OR the ignitor.

I have swapped the coil with ignitor, I have put a new wire from the connector on the coil (Y/L) to the tach, and I do get a small jump on the tach when I turn on the ignition, so clearly the motor is working, and clearly, the wire is okay, and I doubt my car would run perfectly without coil and/or ignitor.

Two questions, what might it be, and can I run 12V straight on the plugs to the tach (inside it)? If I can do that, I can atleast test to see that it sweeps as it should, and start looking elsewhere.

Cheers for any input!

Jim

[Prof]

I have a feeling the tach output is a 5v signal to the igniter from the ecu, unless your ECU was driving coils directly before.
 
Since my cars are in bits I can\'t measure it for you.
 
Glad you got it on the road - once you drive them you don\'t want to get into the seat of anything else ;-)

[jimmydanny]

Just got news from my Volvo dealer as well. I was hoping to get 2500£ for my Mazda, if I won\'t, I won\'t sell it either.

But they wanted 2500£ for the big 160k km service. I mean, what the hell? That is insane money! And why? They have to flush the oil canals in the block because they "can" clog. 6.5 hours of work just for that. So I asked: Isn\'t it easier to flush it from the top of the engine when you have the timing belt of, it is only 10 bolts to undo the head while you\'re at it. The timing belt is a part of those 2500£. No, changing head gasket was a 11 hour job.

They must have a 5 minute coffee break every 5 minutes over there. I bet I could take the timing belt job which takes 3 hours plus the top which shouldn\'t take more than 1h to get off and then back again 1 h total 5. I really have to make some calls about this.

If this is what troublefree car ownership is with newer cars, I will sell that Volvo for 2500£ less and keep my Mazda till I or it dies, or both.

[jimmydanny]

Another question. My blower motor blows, the bad way. People in the US say "it\'s the best blower ever man", and I really wonder, even my friend\'s 81 Corolla got a better blower than this?!

So I have been fiddling around, after swapping Logicon, motor and brushes twice. I took out both relays and checked them, they were clean inside. So I tested the fan straight on the battery, engine off (ie not 14V but 12V), and what a difference! If this is how it should blow, I want it NOW! The only thing that I find possible to make this happening is the resistor or transistor on the rear of the blower motor.

But I don\'t know if these CAN do such a thing as a weak blower? It is the only link I haven\'t checked though, but it isn\'t exactly shelfware either.

So I am asking here before I go buy some random stupid parts that may or may not work.

[jimmydanny]

Bumping my question here