Finally got an rx7 type r

Started by jazraymcbeath, February 27, 2013, 06:46:54 PM

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jazraymcbeath

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;852055Rotarymotion are quoting you 1400 quid for a rebuild with 2 year warrenty?! Someone is telling lies!

A standard rebuild, engine removal, engine install + garentee is ~3500 from a reputable specialist.

Engine removal and fitting will be done by myself. Can someone look at his add on eBay I did a search for engine rebuild on eBay comes up with him. Sorry can\'t find item number as using my phone. He has the option for an extended 4 year warranty.

jazraymcbeath

Thanks for replys will try kseal and a good bleed first. Clutch is just starting to slipping in higher gears I forgot to mention. So engine or box needs to come out anyway.

boosted

There\'s a inspection panel for the clutch bud 2 10mm bolts easy peasy to check it. Good bleed of hydraulics with fresh fluid might buy you some time there as well.
There\'s a guide on here to for engine removal.
92 FD rx7 Twins 13.5psi.  EX Track car
EAT SLEEP ROTOR REPEAT.

jazraymcbeath

Quote from: boosted;852067There\'s a inspection panel for the clutch bud 2 10mm bolts easy peasy to check it. Good bleed of hydraulics with fresh fluid might buy you some time there as well.
There\'s a guide on here to for engine removal.

Great stuff. Wil take a look to see how much meat is on clutch and give a bleed. For all the car is going to be used. If I took engine out I wouldn\'t be able to stop with just putting a clutch in.

Mir

Mate I hope you get your car sorted soon. Regarding, RotaryMotion, I have heard a lot of good things about this guy from a few knowledgeable people. If I was you, and I had 1400pounds spare, I would for sure give him a chance.

For any Newbie (I know you have been a member since May 2004) I always recommended builders who offered warranties, for example, Carl Hayward offers the best warranty out there in my opine, however; this rotary-motion guy definitely know the trick to offer such warranty on a ROTARY ENGINE. Hence, in nutshell, do give him a chance. But, please ensure that, you read the terms and condition of the alleged warranty and, if possible, post them here... I am sure most of the people would love to have a read of them.

Best of luck

Mir
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

philiwily

They do have an expansion tank in the wing, 6 bar with a normal compression tester ain\'t bad. If it was me I would fit fans, header tank, new caps and bleed the coolant thoroughly, kseal if it was needed.
Don\'t suppose you knew Mark Rae, can\'t remember if he was from Wick or Thurso.

Phil

jazraymcbeath

I have ordered kseal will measure radiator and order some twin fans. Does the level on the inner tank go up and down. As when I went back to my plastic bottle level had changed some water had been drawn back into system. As there is another catch tank for water that isn\'t there hopefully its just needing bleed,caps and inner wing tank.

Then all depends on clutch. Before I look at no horn no wipers or very very slow. No indicators and broken headlight covers.

No never heard of him. There was a red rx7 up here a while ago but disappeared as quick as it appeared. Was a guy in his early 20\'s.

boosted

Look at champagne RX7 test on youtube....its pretty ferocious....small fizzing bubbles as you describe just sounds like air exiting system.So seals not gone hopefully..  Look in the parts section for a fan pack.

Get some pics up of her bud!
92 FD rx7 Twins 13.5psi.  EX Track car
EAT SLEEP ROTOR REPEAT.



jazraymcbeath

I have removed sunstrip and tinted rear window. Anyone wanting a carbon bonnet. Was going to paint it white. As there is shading and a dull part at the front. Would be happy with a swap for a standard bonnet if you arange courier. Not worried about colour.

RobMatthews

So the water cooling system...
Are you leaving the car to cool right down before checking the levels?
No? then your not doing it right,

The coolant bleeds from the ast(the plastic tank with sprung cap on) to the tank behind o/s side wing under pressure as the system heats up,as it cools it gets sucked back up from the tank back into the engine/rad/ast.
If you open the coolant system before its coold down you are releaving the pressure that pulls the water back in!On most cars the header tank is highest point so if you open the system hot gravity will still drain the water back into the coolant system, The \'header\'tank on the fd is low down in the wing so it relies on that pressure to pull the coolant up into the system.

Check the pipe from ast to tank make sure that is in good condition, any pin holes/damage to that will allow air to get sucked back in rather than coolant looking like your loosing the coolant.
Is the tank behind the wing in leakfree condition to?

There are plenty of people breaking cars so rads shouldn\'t be very expensive and work at various speeds much easier to plug in oem than wire in aftermarket!

Do not use K seal either you may as well spunk in the coolant, its not effective and once in very difficult to clear out properly as with the rest of the voodoo engine fix things out there just doesn\'t work.
To contact me robmatthews81@yahoo.co.uk

parts supplied by;

DM-Motorsport.co.uk
Pulleys, Filler Caps, Sump braces, wheel spacers, blank plates and more!...............
Info@DM-Motorsport.co.uk

jazraymcbeath

If any one wants to swap a standard bonnet for my carbon one will be happy to do so. Not bothered on colour. You must arange courier. Bonnet has some shading and has been scuffed at the front. Was going to paint this one white but would prefer a standard one.

jazraymcbeath

Quote from: RobMatthews;852137So the water cooling system...
Are you leaving the car to cool right down before checking the levels?
No? then your not doing it right,

The coolant bleeds from the ast(the plastic tank with sprung cap on) to the tank behind o/s side wing under pressure as the system heats up,as it cools it gets sucked back up from the tank back into the engine/rad/ast.
If you open the coolant system before its coold down you are releaving the pressure that pulls the water back in!On most cars the header tank is highest point so if you open the system hot gravity will still drain the water back into the coolant system, The \'header\'tank on the fd is low down in the wing so it relies on that pressure to pull the coolant up into the system.

Check the pipe from ast to tank make sure thatpipein good condition, any pin holes/damage to that will allow air to get sucked back in rather than coolant looking like your loosing the coolant.
Is the tank behind the wing in leakfree condition to?

There are plenty of people breaking cars so rads shouldn\'t be very expensive and work at various speeds much easier to plug in oem than wire in aftermarket!

Do not use K seal either you may as well spunk in the coolant, its not effective and once in very difficult to clear out properly as with the rest of the voodoo engine fix things out there just doesn\'t work.

Do you à picture of tank. I had no pipe on ast and cant find an overflow tank. Thats why I am using a clear plastic bottle.

fil_auto



AST nearest the battery ( light blue cap ). Coolant fill point, centre of eng bay ( yellow cap ). Expansion / overflow tank, drivers side wing, just to left of Apexi filters. HTH :yes