General Update and a couple of questions

Started by Jon_P, January 21, 2013, 03:07:30 AM

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Jon_P

Hi all.

As some of you may remember, I bought a \'99 Type RS late last year in November. The car has been brilliant, other than the 2nd turbo going the other week sadly. I took the car up to Carl and the team at Hayward, and as expected, they were BRILLIANT. I genuinely cannot rate and praise the guys highly enough. Carl, Ian, Bradley and George are a great bunch and if you haven\'t used them before, then I HIGHLY recommend them. They swapped the turbo pack for a used twin pack same day and did a brilliant job.

Anyway. I have finally decided, with a bit of help from some mates and Hayward, what I want to do to my FD.

This is the list...

Respray in original colour of Mica Blue
18" Work CR Kai in bronze (open to suggestions and advice on widths and offsets)
Coilovers (this is where I am stuck and need advice).
Feed side skirts

That is where the exterior and handling changes end....

Engine wise:

Engine rebuild courtesy of Hayward Rotary
Street-port
Non sequential conversion on turbo\'s (keeping the twin set up)
Power FC and Re-map
Twin Apexi Induction Filters
Hayward Custom Intercooler and Radiator set up
De-Cat
MAYBE change the exhaust although it\'s aftermarket already (AutoExe cat back)

That, I think, is it.

My questions to yourselves are:

a) What fitment (width and offset) do you recommend for 18"s
b) What coilovers do you recommend? I want them for street and OCCASIONALLY track, but they need to be good on the road too as that is where I primarily use it!

Look forward to hearing your suggestions.

Thanks guys.

BlitzBoy

dont go non-seq, you will lose the early part (low rpm) of your power band and torque, if you have a fully working seq system keep it, people only tend to go non-seq if something breaks in the system. Off the lights and driving in town the seq car is the quicker car.
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

HaywardRotary

Happy to help Jon.
Feel free to call anytime for advice.
Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

Jon_P

Thanks Carl.

BlitzBoy - I was under the understanding that yes the turbo\'s cut in later at the same time, but it makes the acceleration a bit quicker when they are both boosting together?

BlitzBoy

Well if you accelarating from a starting point of 1000 to 4000 rpm , the sequentials WILL be faster quicker spool, then from putting your foot down from approx 4000rpm then seq and NON seq will be the SAME.
Its a myth the NON-seq produce more power, seen it many times on the dyno, they end up being the same. In fact the highest power HP stock twins in the UK was sequential, the quickest stock twins on the quarter mile in the UK was sequential.

Two reasons why people go non-seq, one being if something goes wrong in the sequential twin turnbo components (eg rats nest/solenoids) so people simplfy and want a more reliable system.
The second reason some people dont like the transition on circuit when the second turbo cuts in at approx 4 to 4.5k rpm, they find it easier to drive in non-seq. Does not seem to bother the Japs when they do the touge runs in seq mode.
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

kevint

Quote from: BlitzBoy;848309one being if something goes wrong in the sequential twin turnbo components (eg rats nest/solenoids) so people simplfy and want a more reliable system.

Jon as you have a \'99 car it does not have the same rats nest as earlier cars, it is already simpler and should be more reliable.

Kevin

BlitzBoy

Yes agreed, the Black control/solenoid box, so only has to worry about some vacuum hoses, so another reason to keep seq in my eyes.
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

Jon_P

Very true. I just thought I would give it a try. I know it doesn\'t create more power as such as at the end of the day, it\'s the same. I do like the transition but I also like the idea of slightly better fuel consumption and for the same of trying I think I will give it a go. If I don\'t like it, I\'ll go back to sequential. Thanks for the input guys. It is much appreciated. Have any of you got some advice on the wheel sizes and/or coilover suggestions?

Grant Monkhouse

235/40/18 front
265/35/18 rear

Not sure on offsets but I like wheels with deep dish.

Grant Monkhouse

I used to have these on my fd. 35 offset, maybe stick a small spacer behind them to fill the arches out just right. No need to roll the arches either

http://ultralitewheels.com/taka.htm

Jon_P

Thanks Grant... Are you sure you didn\'t have to do any arch mod as my standard 17" catch on the front arches when the wheels are slightly turned and hit a bump....

Grant Monkhouse

No didn\'t roll the arches. But the fronts rubbed on the arch liner on full lock. I should have had the arches rolled though, could have made it even lower then :(

Just having a quick look for the right offset for those wheels you suggested.

Jon_P

Haha!! Yeah, I am looking at lowering mine, but not stupidly low. I still want it to be practical for our shoddy roads in the UK. I think I can get away without touching the rear arches but will do the front ones. Makes sense to get them done too as it\'s going in for respray soon, so can be done at the same time.

Thank you mate, appreciate that. When it comes to sizes of offsets, I\'m lost!! So I appreciate that.

Grant Monkhouse


Grant Monkhouse

As for coil overs I would suggest say your budget and look from there. There are a lot around, I honestly don\'t know the best ones.