Rad and intercooler set-up for 20B FD3

Grant Monkhouse · November 19, 2012, 10:50:10 PM

No idea on power, 300+rwhp maybe. Still on the twins. I\'m running an EWP on my setup

Grizzly · November 19, 2012, 10:59:52 PM

EWP\'s work great on race cars, I had an EWP but i went back to aftermarket FD water pump because it was taking too long to warm up with no Thermostat (not for my road car)

Have you run an Ebay rad on a std Waterpump car?

Grant Monkhouse · November 19, 2012, 11:09:00 PM

Yes on my FD that I sold last year. I know the eBay rads are cheap and cheerful but they do work. It\'s a half decent upgrade if you can\'t afford an expensive brand rad.

my rx4 is primarily a drag car but a road car too. I don\'t mind waiting for the temps to get going. Plus I can use my ecu to control the pump and control the temperature

Grizzly · November 20, 2012, 12:17:00 AM

Not to sound funny but "Cheap and Cheerful" has no place in a Tuned Rotary especially when you’re talking about an engine as rare / hard to get bits for as a 20b. You want reliable or Bullet proof not cheap

IMHO if you can\'t afford to do it right not sure you should be winding it up.

As for the EWP yeh i found it was good for cooling the motor down (could leave it running with the engine off) and once it was warmed up worked well but no better than my stock system think it was waisted on my car, so as the car was being used more for road than Track it got taken out (lost the extra nose weight too), i tried turning the Water feed down until it was hot but didn\'t make allot of diffrence to the warm up, guess the Hot water spent more time in the rad as well as the hot engine so??

Grant Monkhouse · November 20, 2012, 08:42:20 AM

Extra weight? The EWP setup I have is really light, I think the pump weighs less than 900grams.

Yeh with a 20B you should be more careful seen as it costs 50% more on rebuild parts alone. However there still isn\'t a garentee that an expensive rad will be bullet proof

Grizzly · November 20, 2012, 01:49:06 PM

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;841977Extra weight? The EWP setup I have is really light, I think the pump weighs less than 900grams.

Yeh mine was mounted in the nose of the car so even though it proberly weighed less than the stock set up (without water in it) it was where that weight was in the car (try to keep all the weight behind the front wheels if i can thats why i prefer the N-flo as it does the same job as the bigger read but holds less water)

Grizzly · November 20, 2012, 02:04:35 PM

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;841977However there still isn\'t a garentee that an expensive rad will be bullet proof

TBH if you get a Named rad from a decent rad maker (Koyo,PWR,Fluidine the list goes on) there made from Quality materials, R&D\'d and often come from motor sport back ground (pressure tested, there reputation / pride have gone into the product) the cheap Chinese rads are mass produced from Thin, poor quality even wrong type alloy. As its been said many times before, if you don’t get a grantee there is usually a reason for it.

leeroy_25 · November 20, 2012, 07:22:15 PM

Grizzly,
You mentioned an aftermarket FD water pump? were you talking electric or standard type? if so what is the pump you are talking about and is it much better than a factory one?
Thanks for all the feedback again guys.

Cheers
Lee

leeroy_25 · November 20, 2012, 09:09:22 PM

Just to be sure are Godspeed and Mishimoto rads just re-branded cheap ones?
Also is it better to have twin core or triple core? Or is it just the thickness of the core that counts and rest sorts itself?
I dropped a few Custom rad shops a lines so will see what they come back with. Thinking I might just get a core and DIY the rest. Only thing is how do I know I am getting a decent core and not a cheapy?
If I knew the core was good I could get hold of a second hand cheapy for the bodies and weld a new core into it?
Thoughts on that? I do love a bit of DIY!

leeroy_25 · November 20, 2012, 09:15:29 PM

One last thing.. I didn\'t find SARD hi-flow thermostats but I found Tridon one in Australia? and also a Mishimoto do a low temp 68Â°C one? Familiar with either of these? Which makes me think maybe Mishimoto RADs are not cheapy cheapy cheap?!

Cheers
Lee

Grizzly · November 21, 2012, 01:13:12 AM

Quote from: leeroy_25;842017Grizzly,
You mentioned an aftermarket FD water pump? were you talking electric or standard type?

I picked up a Mazmart Pump a bit back (never a big fan of the stock Waterpump)

Grizzly · November 21, 2012, 01:20:03 AM

Quote from: leeroy_25;842032I didn\'t find SARD hi-flow thermostats

I may be wrong but i think this is the one http://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-low-temperature-thermostat-rx-7-fd3s-11097

I have a 68deg opening one but i didn\'t know you can get better flowing Stats.

leeroy_25 · November 21, 2012, 12:31:49 PM

Thanks Grizzly,
So your thhermostat is not hi-flow as such but it happens to flow higher due to lower temp openig I assume. So Porbbaly much of a muchness if i pick-up a Mishimoto one or Tridon hi flow? I know my Nismo Low temp stat in my RB30 makes a huge difference in running temp.
What about the RAD questions above? Is Mishimoto generally cheap re-brand do we think?

Thoughts on getting a decent raad core and using in a cheapy rad or complete DIY fab?

Cheers
Lee

leeroy_25 · November 21, 2012, 12:45:32 PM

well here was an interesting find.
http://radiator-review.com/mishimoto.html
read the koyo rviews as well..

Think I might just get a Mishimoto one?? and if need be mod it for N-Flow.

Lee

Sicknote · November 22, 2012, 01:34:49 PM

Hey fella, won\'t be long till K-II comes back from Pip @ WGT, we\'ll then be rebuilding the engine bay
back up, you\'re welcome to come see my 20B in the flesh and how we\'re setting him up, defo a V-Mount
is best in my opinion, we had great temp results from that and a good ducting set up to match.

Dave