13b Autopsy from FB

[shaunwil]

After the issue with the FB breaking I pulled the engine out last weekend and decided to strip the engine to see what happen.

First of all I got the engine mounted on to the engine stand.







Then the Maniold and Carb comes of the adapter on the engine.



4 port to 6 port adapter was the next to get removed.



Then Removed the Engine mount off the front of the engine.



Then removed the water pump assembly from the front cover.



Then removed the sump to find what the cause is to the engine failing. There are huge amounts of copper swarf in the sump. Bearing Failure looks the culprit of the engine failing.





Overall the engine looks very clean in the sump. Not sure if this is the advantage of running LPG, very little amount of carbon build up.



Oil pump chain is still intact.



Next on to removing the front pulley. Needed quite a big bar to get the 19mm nut off !



Removed the CAS from the front cover.



Removed Front cover to find a very clean oily pump assembly.



Then I got stuck with the Flywheel nut. I\'ll need to borrow one in the week and get the flywheel cracked off !

Shaun

[Grant Monkhouse]

I\'m sure pip might let you borrow one, if not I think we have a huge socket, bit of a treck to get it though?? Or order one off interweb, probably be best.

Have you got oil in the right places?

[shaunwil]

Seems to be, pulled the oil feed lines off and there was oil present at the OMP.

Not sure if I\'ve run it low on oil previously and topped back up. Had new oil in not that long ago and had plenty on the dip stick.

Shaun

[Grant Monkhouse]

Was the oils pump working? Wonder if you\'ve had an oil problem causing the bearing to fail?

Or have you tried revving it really high?

[shaunwil]

Haven\'t revved the engine high recently but who\'s to say it hasn\'t been on the way out for a while. Has been noisier of late, put it down to the exhaust !

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Looking at sockets its about £30 for one. Will need to wait till end of month for funds though.

Shaun

[HaywardRotary]

You will have a serious bearing failure in that engine. It could have been on the way out which then led to a stationary gear/rotor gear breaking which seized the motor.
The clean sump is typical of all rotaries re the carbon you were talking about.
Now you have got the motor pulled it will be pretty easy to rebuild and put a fresh one back in i think!
Hope it goes well!
Opportunity for porting I think!

[shaunwil]

Cheers Carl, the last 12a I took apart I thought was a lot more dirty inside.

Will carry the thread on once I sort the socket out !

Shaun

[David Nock (RIP)]

Watching this space for your next posting Shaun...

[neoroony]

What socket size are you after, I might be able to borrow one tomorrow evening.

[Casey]

Good progress Shaun - watching with interest. Hoping the damage inside isn\'t too drastic and you can rebuild easily.

[grinder]

What socket size are you after, I might be able to borrow one tomorrow evening.

if its the flywheel then its the 54mm one

[neoroony]

epic FAIL, it\'s a no go on the 54mm socket.

Common phrases used where along the lines of "wtf do you need that for" and "Are you working on a rigid chassis class dumper truck"

You could try the garage round the back of spar, the lads have swapped an alternator pulley for me and didn\'t want payment, also refused my offering of a bacon buttie.

I\'ve also been advised that you need a 3/4" drive as a 1/2" based socket won\'t be up to the job. You might know better or someone else could advise you on here.

Sorry I couldn\'t be of help.

[12at]

lock the motor and use a heat torch and a chisel and hammer if you dont have the right socket..

[bumpstart]

pssst............. toyota 54mm wheel bearing nut spindle socket is around $15  ( metric ) or  5 bob and two buttons ( imperial )

or RB in the US will sell you a big socket ,, and a bar of calculated length to apply guestimated TQ when doing them up

PS
.. told you it was a bearing ...
 sometimes you can get lucky and most of the expensive stuff inside is OK.. expect minimum of a crank and a rotor and maybe a stat gear
...all of which a junked engine should donate .. ( its the housing condition that will dictate the main costs )
i collect and strip the junkers cause its times like these you need....
pity there is such a distance here cause i would throw these things at you
.. i have well over a dozen FC rotors laying around on shelves , an oil drum with many cranks , and a fruit crate full of stats

i suggest sussing out the cost of some non oem water seal and oil control O ring sets and some of the better aftermarket apex seals and springs
( from the US as they are very competitive atm )
compare the atkins/RA/pineapple and especially recommend the goopy options for both hard and soft seals ...
 ( or suss out the oz rotor jipped on O ring thread and make your own,, havent let me down yet  ;P )

you may wish to try a template and port for yourself.. but i recommend porting only your primary plate ( and or substituting a 13bt one ) , keeping things 9.4:1 .. and adding the s4 turbo
(  either seek out the 13bt inlet manifolds and mod them and use a 225.. or find out how to boost prep the 300.. and build a hat  )