Odd problem starting...

Started by Matt.Wild, October 23, 2004, 01:46:12 PM

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sdminus

It was given to me. nobody took it seriously at the time but i did.
Look for a auto electrical place. the crimp lugs are easy to get hold of.
HKS do a kit called a circle earth kit. loadsa money. was thinkin of making some. dont know how much interest there is tho.
try this short term.could make em for bout 25 30 quid
get 16mm ho1 vvf of 16mm cable as spoke about. bare it back about 2 inch. split it equal in half .Put this round the bolt or stud with a washer either side and twist the end to create a loop round the stud or bolt. just tighten. this will do tempory. not saying this is the answer to all ills but might help.
scott

Matt.Wild

At Maplins its £2.99/metre for silicon coated 16mm multi strand cable plus 49p per pack of 10 53mm O ring crimps for the cable ends.... How can HKS justify £150?  Can\'t see me needing any more than about 5-6 metres of the stuff - block to chassis, battery to chassis, turbo\'s to chassis - what else?

grinder

sounds like you are having fun matey

can you post links for the maplins stuff please

thanks

stu


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Matt.Wild

#18
All sorted now - She just needed a good charge :D

Plugged the battery back, turned the key and woompa woompa woompa the car came back to life :)

Just need to sort the dash now :wave

EDIT

Oh, ring connectors are either ML92A and I can\'t remember the code for the cable.  When I collect mine on Thursday(ish) i\'ll get it...

sdminus

Glad to hear it mate......

scott:cool

Matt.Wild

I\'m glad its sorted too :)

The dash circuit popped a 25 amp fuse when I put it in :(

Where does the dash circuit ground to?

Matt.Wild

Just had a thought about my starting and dash lights problem (although obviously, with enough battery the car is starting).  My car used to have a remote start unit in it.  It was removed by the previous owner on the day I collected it. I\'d seen it obviously working with the unit in so I know it works with it in and started without question

Since then I have thought nothing about it.  However, this occurred to me today -

As its a remote starting unit, it would be connected to the live circuit, the engine and the starter motor to enable it to turn the starter motor and start the car.  When this was removed, the harness was left in, just the unit taken out.  I\'ve since removed the harness from the ignition block. HOWEVER, the loom for the unit still has connections going into the engine bay and thus presumably still connected to the live circuit.

Therefore, it makes perfect sense that if I reconnect the remote start unit back into the circuit, the battery drain will stop and that the dash light fuse blowing will stop as a short won\'t be occurring in the circuit.

Does this make sense and therefore possibly?  I\'m not near my car at the mo\' so can\'t test my theory, but it sounds plausible, right?

sdminus

It does mate. Its important to understand why it is blowing tho.
If it is blowing a fuse then it would indicate either a over load situation. or a short circuit. ( Short circuit is when the live conductor is in direct contact with the neutral, since neutral is earth it applies to it as well). Now the fuse is put in circuit at its origin (The source) The fuse is designed to protect the cables on that circuit against currents that exceed the cables designed full load working current. Not to protect 3rd party device or any equipment. An overload will put mechanical and thermal stress on the cable.
With this in mind i would start at the source of the circuit ie at the fuse which protects it and work forward. You could do this by finding the first and last point of electrical distribution. ou need to gradually put the points back in circuit one at a time untill it blows the fuse. Also try and get hold of a dc clamp style ammeter.
scott
Beware of parallel return paths and parelleled circuits:wave

Matt.Wild

BTW cheers for the pointers mate! :D


OK, the unit is back in and car starts quicker with it in :confused:

Also, if I put a higher rate fuse in and flick the lmain lights on, the revs drop so I presume there is grounding some where? (or a lack of?).  If I remove the fuse the revs stay set when the headlights are  put on...

The dash lights etc don\'t come on, but for a guess the grounding (or lack of) is preventing the lights?  I think i may be getting somewhere now.

Just  need the help from someone with a better understanding than me :(

Oh, the remote start unit has the following wires free (coming off the unit) - Yellow, green and grey whilst wires coming in from under the dash (and god knows where) are red and white.  Red is coming off the handbreak signal so I guess I need to find the units handbreak input.

The remote start unit is a Starbo RS1500 if helps...

Anyone?

sdminus

#24
Swaping fuese is a bad idea. Remember what i said about circuit protection. That means you are possibly over rating the cable. It is doing that due to the magnetic coupling of the alternator coused by incrreased load on the output windings. Basically the higher requirement of current puts greater load on the windings of the stator. this causes a magnetic flux (cutting) of the rotor windings Slowing it down. higher the load the greater the magnetic flux. its a reversed emf.

I should think it had a switch wire for the hand barke so it knew if the car was driven off with out the key in the ignition ie on remote start
scott:wave

Matt.Wild

#25
I figured its not good, but I just wanted to test to see if they came on.  I take it i\'m correct in assuming an incorrect grounding somewhere in the system?

I guess the solution is a auto electrician? Or do you have any idea how I can fix it?

EDIT

Forgot to say, as recommend, I\'m making me a grounding setup for the rex anyway (on order for the weekend) to improve pick up etc.  Should be good :)

sdminus

try what i said bud. split the circuit see if it hold in
scott

Matt.Wild

QuoteOriginally posted by sdminus
try what i said bud. split the circuit see if it hold in
scott

Which circuits can I split?!?  I\'m game to take some off but don\'t know how or where to start?

sdminus

pull the fuse. now tell what doesnt work
scott

Matt.Wild

Dash illumination, side lights and rear lights and finally rear heated window...