Can you look at these pics and help :)

Started by Kamatari, March 16, 2012, 09:29:58 AM

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Kamatari

Right then, i got my vaccum gauge and water temp gauge the other day so i went down to the unit to have a look at how im going to install these...

Now after that i started checking other things again, underneath the car i had sprayed with degreaser and cleaned up to try and get an idea where an oil leak is coming from... Now i was thinking it was coming from the sump (which it still could be....) but if you look at the first picture (0266), i think the leak might be coming from whatever the thing is underneath the oil filter...What is this bit and is it easy to replace if this is the problem?

Right so after the oil leak, i started flicking through the haynes manual and noticed a bit about the fast idle cam, didnt take any notice at first... But then i was looking at what was on my shelving and noticed the throttlebody and started playing with it whilst thinking...

Now in the last picture (0268) ive got a closer picture of the part in question... With this being from the car im breaking, when the throttle is not pressed, the metal arm is slightly pressed into this part.. when you open the throttle the metal arm moves away and the plastic peg pops out a bit... Now if im assuming this is the right area, the fast idle cam is sitting behind the throttle, and depending on the position of this either puts it to its normal slightly pressed position or presses in the peg a bit more...

Now on my car ive been repairing, although its a bit hard to see or get to whilst everythings on the car, from what i can see, the metal bar is barely touching the peg, when you open the throttle the arm moves away but the peg doesnt move...

Now could this have any effect to my bouncy idle? and also what is this part?

cheers guys :)
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grinder

Im sure your first pic is showing you stock oil temp or oil pressure sensor .. but thats jsut a wild guess :D


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BinoX

As to your first question...

The thing below the Oil Filter is the oil pressure sender... it\'s what tells the gauge inside the car what the oil pressure is (I don\'t think the ECU uses this info but not sure).... It is entirely possible that it is allowing oil to leak if it\'s busted....


As for the 2nd part...
Throttle bodies aren\'t something I\'ve had a lot of dealings with, so I haven\'t really played with them much, only taken one off and put it back on before... but a bouncy idle is usually caused by an air leak somewhere...
2004 RX8 192PS - Stock [Now sold... I miss it :(]
1989 RX7 FC Turbo II Cabriolet - Now road legal, but still with problems

Kamatari

im thinking its the oil pressure sender, especially as mine seems to not read anymore inside the car and it would seem as if oil is leaking from here..

With the second part, im not sure what this part does but if i assume its part of the fast idle, if mine is fully open/out all the time then im not sure if this means its always doing its fast idle which when it gets up to temprature, it drops the revs but then as this is open it sees that it should be higher? wild guess there :p more than likely its an air leak still
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BinoX

I had what seemed like an intermittent air leak on my car, turned out the gasket between the upper and lower inlet manifold wasn\'t right so under some circumstances it was sucking air... so if you\'ve had that off it may be a good idea to replace the gasket and use some blue hylomar as well...

Finding a vac leak on these engines is a pain... I replaced most of my vac tubes when I took the upper inlet manifold, just in case :)
2004 RX8 192PS - Stock [Now sold... I miss it :(]
1989 RX7 FC Turbo II Cabriolet - Now road legal, but still with problems

Prof

that 2nd part is just a sort of shock absorber. Once throttle warms up, the wax pellet thinga-ma-jig pushed on the cam and allows the throttle plates to fully shut off. If you snap off the throttle really quickly, you don\'t want the plates to \'slam shut\' and bounce, so this damper device controls the shut off speed. You can rotate it up or down to control how much damperning effect it gives. I believe it\'s called the \'dash pot\' or some such...
 
 
 
oh -and oil leaks in the area of the oil pedestal:
 
could be oil filter, pedestal mount (2 o rings), cracked dowel mounting on the rear iron just below and in board of the pedestal - usually seen as a slight pooling when engine is running, and dripping from underneath, could be pressure sender - see if it\'s in tight - also might want to replace it - I have a feeling it\'s relatively standard part.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Kamatari

So if this is fully open/out and doesnt move when the throttle is moved could it cause any issues?

from where it looks like oil is coming from is the inside part of the pressure sender then?, i cleaned the underside of the car last week and now there seems to be oil every where again and whilst im not ruling out that it could be the sump still... it looks like there is a bit of oil coming down from the sender...and if the oil pressure gauge in the car isnt working, if this was leaking it wouldnt show pressure?
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Prof

Most of the threads over on rx7 club say leave the dash pot alone ;), when the throtle is off the warm up cam, the last 1-2 mm of the throttle travel before it closes should be engaging that dashpot - well at least it does on mine.
 
I\'d say you have found your culprit for the oil leak - sounds like the sender has died - it\'s a diaphragm inside, and the resistance varies - so could be it\'s just come to a bitter end.  I suspect any of the vendors on here can provide a suitable good used part.  Not sure if I have a 2nd one or not - I will look tomorrow.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Kamatari

i should have a second hand one hopefully :)

as for the dashpot, my throttle doesnt "engage" the dashpot at all :(
RexMidlands - A place for Midland rotary owners to hang out

Prof

Make sure you check it in the \'warmed up mode\'. If you look at your pictures - 3rd picture.
 
The thing centre left is the wax thermo valve. When the engine warms up the coolant circulating through that valve pushes the pin upwards, which rotates the cam - you can mimick the same thing by gently moving the cam around with a screwdriver - which simulates a warmed engine - you\'ll then be able to see whether the dashpot engages - it should do.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Kamatari

with those two images, theyre off the car being broken, i can move what your on about, one way cause the thing to push inwards, the other puts it how it is now, when the throttle is moved it will move the bracket off it and it pops out a little bit more

Looking at my car, it is barely touching, opening the throttle moves the bracket but doesnt affect the prong thingy
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m1tch

Quote from: Kamatari;816263with those two images, theyre off the car being broken, i can move what your on about, one way cause the thing to push inwards, the other puts it how it is now, when the throttle is moved it will move the bracket off it and it pops out a little bit more

Looking at my car, it is barely touching, opening the throttle moves the bracket but doesnt affect the prong thingy

Thats cause \'full throttle\' at cold isn\'t full throttle, its why you would need to wait until the car is warmed up before sorting out the TPS or anything with the ECU regarding throttle position, it stops you reving the engine when its cold.

Kamatari

but im wondering if because there is no movement on it that once it has warmed up its still thinking its in its cold start thinking? as it revs high for the first min or two and then drops to its bouncy idle which is something like 1000-1500 (although cant remember exactly at this point)... more than likely though its probably an air leak
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Kamatari

to add on with this, i think i had a dirty connector on the oil pressure sender as it all works again, i forgot to check under the car last night after i had it running for a while to see if i can identify the leak more...

With a vacuum gauge installed onto one of the lines my reading at start up was about 24inHg and then when it starts doing its bouncy idle is between 21inHg and 24inHg so definately an air leak?
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BinoX

That does suggest a vac leak to me... Have you replaced any vac hoses, or are they really old ones?
2004 RX8 192PS - Stock [Now sold... I miss it :(]
1989 RX7 FC Turbo II Cabriolet - Now road legal, but still with problems