A single is conceived, few month before she is born?

Started by 123tom123tom, December 13, 2011, 06:47:08 PM

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123tom123tom

ok I started her the other day for the first time in weeks.... she fired straight up first turn of the key....
 
Few questions though: 1. The car seems to idle high all the time round the 1100 rpm mark,
2. I havent attached a vac pipe to the (secondary butterfly throttles actuator) sorry don\'t know what they are called. so they I assume are constanly open... any problems this may cause?
3. A stupid question here does heat wrap smoke when hot for the first time???
 
4. this is not a question but me letting everyone on here know what a plank i am sometimes... The car was running for around 5-10mins then a cloud of smoke appeared I quickly turned the car off.... dont be a dummy like me and leave the inlet feed for the turbo touching the hot side of the turbo, braided or not it will kill it and oil will  go all over

123tom123tom


 
I start the car today, I have a few issues maybe you guys who have done this and know more about the rotary engine can help me? I have drawn a very quick sketch of what i have done plumbing wise, please tell me if some stuff is wrong i.e fuel atomisation etc
 
1. car revs up if you steadily open the throttle alway to about 8000 rpm, if you rev it quickly like WOT stamp your foot kind of acceleration, it splutters and back fires, miss fires (NOT GOOD)
 
2. oil pressure is just below 2 on the gauge and moves up from that point with the rpm of the car, hight the rpm higher the pressure goes alway up to 8.
 
3. when warm car idles quite steady at 800 rpm. coolant temp is good also.
 
4. I took the car for a little test run in first gear and it would not boost, it kind of just dies like there isnt enough fuel when the turbo starts to spool at about 3500rpm.
 
5. this is proper wierd it takes water from the housing neck on the block I cant seem to fill it, thing is this is well the car is not running???? and I am almost 100% sure there is no leaks... no puddle no nothing, not one drip under the car. I am not sure about the AST been lower than the water housing if this would cause any issues????
 
one more thing is the previous owner told me it had a walbro pump on it, I checked as I thought some of the above was fuel starvation related... Guess what it has a denso standard pump, Which should a get walbro or bosche??
 
OTHER THAN ALL THAT LOL THE CAR RUNS AT IDLE FINE :rolleyes:

shaunwil

What ECU are you running ???

It needs tuning once on an aftermarket ECU before you give it any boost !!!!

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

123tom123tom

Quote from: shaunwil;808280What ECU are you running ???
 
It needs tuning once on an aftermarket ECU before you give it any boost !!!!
 
Shaun

 
hi there mate, I have only got a piggy back for it? Greddy emanage... dont want to run loads of boost just 0.7 bar .6 summat like that?
 
Any suggestions on any of the topics I have wrote down here, kind of desperate now lol....
 
there is no smoke coming out the exhaust anymore like there was before I single converted it???

123tom123tom

help I am crying into my pillow :3Confused
 
Quote from: 123tom123tom;808283hi there mate, I have only got a piggy back for it? Greddy emanage... dont want to run loads of boost just 0.7 bar .6 summat like that?
 
Any suggestions on any of the topics I have wrote down here, kind of desperate now lol....
 
there is no smoke coming out the exhaust anymore like there was before I single converted it???

shaunwil

Sorry buddy, just got in from 10pin bowling League ! If you have a piggy back spend a little bit of cash sticking it on a dyno to check at least the map looks something like.

Safer to know its running rich than it going lean and throwing something.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

123tom123tom

Hi I have the emanage blue piggy back, I know it needs mapping as it has standard ecu with a MINES chip on it??? The AFR gauge says it is running top end of optimal/rich kind of area, but as soon as you drive it in first gear and it get anywhere near the turbo coming on line it cuts like fuel cut????
But I didnt think this could happen unless you actually went on boost and past a certain point of boost??
 
This is what led me to think it was fuel starvation, so i looked at the fuel pump and it has standard pump? So what should I order, the HRC 290 lph or a walbro 255 lph, does it matter if I get a higher LPH pump than the walbro 255....
 
Also I am using the standard FPR with a direct vac line from the LIM no solenoids etc and standard injectors???  
 
Quote from: shaunwil;808313Sorry buddy, just got in from 10pin bowling League ! If you have a piggy back spend a little bit of cash sticking it on a dyno to check at least the map looks something like.
 
Safer to know its running rich than it going lean and throwing something.
 
Shaun

Grant Monkhouse

I would suggest a better FPR, an aeromotive FPR, Bosch 044 fuel pump and get yourself an apexi ecu and a remap. It might add up to a but of cash but if it saves you from having the engine rebuilt then it\'s worth it, and you would also need to has these upgradesalong with ta rebuild so the expense would be even greater.

The smoke you were getting at first will just have been bits off oil in the exhaust and off the buts you have touched with mucky hands.

123tom123tom

Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;808346I would suggest a better FPR, an aeromotive FPR, Bosch 044 fuel pump and get yourself an apexi ecu and a remap. It might add up to a but of cash but if it saves you from having the engine rebuilt then it\'s worth it, and you would also need to has these upgradesalong with ta rebuild so the expense would be even greater.
 
The smoke you were getting at first will just have been bits off oil in the exhaust and off the buts you have touched with mucky hands.

 
no smoke from this car now? the twin turbos were to blame for that? In my previous thread I thought the car had chucked a seal as it would below smoke out, but it turned out to be the turbos were knackered, well one was.... that is why i decidedto go single turbo and now it doesnt smoke.....
 
What I will say is though if you are stood behind the car there is no smoke but it hurts your eyes to the oint where they water and smells like fuel?? so is it running lean or is it running really rich because of the mines ecu chip :confused:

shaunwil

That sounds proper rich but they are always proper rich on tick over !

Only way your going to get more fuel out of the stock injectors is using an aftermarket FPR. I still used the stock FPR with 1200 secondariness upto about 380bhp without too much hassle. I did have a better pump fitted though (pip fitted it in the early days and its still being used)

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

123tom123tom

I will fit a hrc 255 pump for starters and do 12v mod to it, what do you think the hesitation at wot is around the 4000rpm mark, starting to think it is coilpack relatedas it feels like a break down of spark or sumat like that it is doin mily headin abit

123tom123tom

Right I think I am getting a apexi unit and PFC, I have stood behind the car today when it was running and my eyes started to water really bad??? and a funny smell.... Some one has told me that this is the car running lean at idle, I thought it was running rich :rolleyes:
 
like i said in earlier in the post when i rev the car up steady it will go alway up to the limiter with no hesitations, if I stamp my foot down it miss fires, bogs down, back fires etc especially at 4000 rpm onwards......
 
Could this be bad air fuel mixture? TPS has been mentioned, engine rebuild time, coilpack, ht leads, plugs???? clutching at straws, could a tuner tell when it comes to mapping it what is letting it down... it did this exact same thing before I single turbo converted it.

philiwily

If it was running to lean on idle it would stumble and stall, infact you want it as lean as possible without any hesitation on throttle.
What are you using to measure AFR?
With a PFC and commander you can look at TPS and MAP sensor, infact all the sensor voltages.
Getting a PFC would save you a lot of time checking sensors.

Phil