pros and cons for 20b or v8

Started by turbo boy, November 22, 2011, 08:40:33 PM

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Grant Monkhouse

Quote from: dthebuk;800120surely the point of going v8 is to keep it reliable, i.e having it at fairly stock power with some breather mods? Stock big v8\'s must last longer than a pp\'d 20b surely?

Yes but I was meaning a 10,000 rpm v8 compared to a 10,000rpm 20B.

With a piston engine everything has to stop and start at the bottom and top of the stroke so eventually parts inside the engine will stretch and need replacing, even though parts are made of stronger materials these days.

A standard LSX engine would last for a lot longer than the 20B 10,000rpm\'er

I like both of the setups. I would have both if I could.

Will66

There aren\'t many people who would run a V8 at 10,000 rpm outside of racing, the cost would be monumentally prohibitive and the cam required to run at that speed would mean it was a recalcitrant pig at road speeds, if you were looking for a reliable powerplant you\'d have a V8 that only ran to 6500 rpm.
RX8 High Power, Cusco Coilovers, Dotz wheels and flames. Shoe Size 12
 
Apparently putting details of your car spec in your signature means the nice folks on exile-rotorsport think you\'re a fool.  I can think of no higher compliment!

"Eat it with a chopstick!"

Grant Monkhouse

I wasn\'t talking road cars. I was giving a like for like comparison.

fil_auto


fil_auto

then again, have a v8 if you want, each to their own....... think I must be frequenting the wrong forum these days, I was sure this was a rotary forum?! lol :P

Mir

Quote from: 4packet;800118Firewall hasn\'t moved Mir with the V8?? So comparison is still valid.
 
Out of interest how much power does the NA 20b reliably produce and still pass an MOT?

Sorry mate look closely! I don\'t know what area you are looking at! Guys please check and pass a judgement whether the firewall is modified or not! Or am I going blind :D

on a serious note it\'s modified!

Mir
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

turbo boy

Comparing the reliability on both engines is laughable. We all know that a 13b rotary on average will last about 60k miles providing its been looked after then its time for its first rebuild which will just consist of gaskets, seals, springs etc. If you do it yourself it`ll cost £900 in parts if you take it to a garage you might get stung- my mate had to remortgage his house to fund a standard rebuild!
 
 Then when you put the engine back together again using stock parts is it gonna last another 60k miles? Er, no. probably 30k if your lucky. Not only do you have to fork out another £900 for your seals and stuff but the block would be pointless putting back together again as there would be too much erosion and wear to use again. How much is a new 13b rotary block minus the e-shaft? £4000? And then ideally you`d be better off replacing everything, you know nothing lasts forever.
 
 Believe me i have been thinking this over for the last few months now and its always gonna come down to overall cost and low maintanence. Most rotary enthusiasts tend to be mechanics and when you look at some of the quickest rexes out there, they are owned by performance tuning garages who can chuck £££ at it without battin an eyelid. I cannot see the sence in spunking £20k on just an engine.


Mir

20k gives you buzz of being a king of the Road! End off! If Jaydee is reading this post, I would ask him humbly to post the story of that Evo he smoked when we were coming back from Flame and Thunder! Mate I thought James car will just fly off the road!! So If you want a fast car go Rotary but if you want a family car go Skybus or Evo, seven seater etc etc
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

Rzla

Quote from: turbo boy;800145Comparing the reliability on both engines is laughable. We all know that a 13b rotary on average will last about 60k miles providing its been looked after then its time for its first rebuild which will just consist of gaskets, seals, springs etc. If you do it yourself it`ll cost £900 in parts if you take it to a garage you might get stung- my mate had to remortgage his house to fund a standard rebuild!
 
Then when you put the engine back together again using stock parts is it gonna last another 60k miles? Er, no. probably 30k if your lucky. Not only do you have to fork out another £900 for your seals and stuff but the block would be pointless putting back together again as there would be too much erosion and wear to use again. How much is a new 13b rotary block minus the e-shaft? £4000? And then ideally you`d be better off replacing everything, you know nothing lasts forever.
 
Believe me i have been thinking this over for the last few months now and its always gonna come down to overall cost and low maintanence. Most rotary enthusiasts tend to be mechanics and when you look at some of the quickest rexes out there, they are owned by performance tuning garages who can chuck £££ at it without battin an eyelid. I cannot see the sence in spunking £20k on just an engine.

 
I love these posts. They always say exactly 60k. It\'s amazing how its always \'60k\'.
 
Kash\'s engine has been abused for 30k on a rebuilt engine. It has run 3 different turbos, boost from 0.9 bar through to 1.4 bar, 29k later its still getting readings of high 6s. This was even after a 2 bar spike on a T51 SPL. Rev limit 8.5k. This engine has been redlined constantly.
 
So where people get their \'facts\' from make me laugh.

Grant Monkhouse

Who the hell does 30,000 miles in their FDs? Most people would average 3,000 a year so that\'s ten years use for £900 self rebuild.

Now that is a bargain! Lmao.

RyanT

30,000 miles on a rebuilt engine Sounds rubbish. I would have thought it would last close too a standard new engine If done properly ?

Mir

Quote from: Rzla;800158I love these posts. They always say exactly 60k. It\'s amazing how its always \'60k\'.
 
Kash\'s engine has been abused for 30k on a rebuilt engine. It has run 3 different turbos, boost from 0.9 bar through to 1.4 bar, 29k later its still getting readings of high 6s. This was even after a 2 bar spike on a T51 SPL. Rev limit 8.5k. This engine has been redlined constantly.
 
So where people get their \'facts\' from make me laugh.

Tell me about it Raz!!! Plus 1!!! As I said before, it\'s how you look after your car matters the most than-which engine is reliable?!! Sorry for the repetition!

Cheers
Mir
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

Mir

Quote from: RyanT;80016130,000 miles on a rebuilt engine Sounds rubbish. I would have thought it would last close too a standard new engine If done properly ?

Ryan do you know how Kash drives his car??????? Lol you will be surprised! He once raced for 12 MINUTES and the car was redline frequently! I wil leave the rest of the storie!! As I want Kash to disclose the rest of the stories himself! Loll

in nutshell, Kash drives his car like a "Stolen" car mate!!
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

Grant Monkhouse

If its any help my mates Saab has done 200,000 miles and hasn\'t broken yet.

Maybe we should all use Saab engines?

I think the main point here with a v8 is that it will give you 400Hp and 400torques without much alteration and will last longer than the rotary equivalent.

People may think I\'m mocking the rotary but I\'m not, I would be happy for my rotary to do 30,000 miles and then go bang because that would be my opportunity to get bigger ports and more poooowwwwwweeeeeeerrrrr