Downgrade from a mkivsupra supra?

Started by adaMkr, October 15, 2011, 12:42:20 PM

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adaMkr

Now that\'s got your attention, :Tongue1:

I\'ve been driving supra\'s for the past few years, aerators and tt\'s, my current TT has been a royal pain since I picked it up. Resolved all the issuses and had it running at ~400 bhp

Unfortunately, it now needs some more work, and, to be honest, i cba with it!

So it\'s being stripped at the minute, and I\'m looking for replacements.

It\'s been years since I\'ve been in a Rex, and the only thing that sticks in my mind were the rattles.

Do you unbiased:) lot have build issues, or was it limited to the car that I went in? Obviously I don\'t want less power, so how reliable are ~350 bhp rex\'s and what kind of mods are needed for the power?

Hugs\'n\'snugs.

Adam

RyanT

I have a 2000 260 bhp fd and I get no rattles and is the smoothest car I have ever driven. Remember you don\'t need as much bhp in a rx7 to compare a supra as there a lot lighter.

adaMkr

Supra\'s are itro 1600kgs, I believe fd\'s are circa 1200kgs, so to keep the power/weight ratio I\'d want 300bhp minimum.

My supe ran pod at 13.2 ish seconds, with a 115 mph terminal, I\'d want more out of the Rex would I be right in saying I\'d want around 350? Would the stock turbos be able to flow that amount or am I looking for a more built engine?

Lacey

For 350hp realistically you\'re probably looking at an uprated pair of twins or ideally a single conversion
SuperCripple!â,,¢ & Co-Owner of JapGirls.
Happy owner of a constant work-in-progress, Red-Interior[COL

wolfie1

my 94fd has mild mods and still blows away audi rs6 in acceleration!

Ada7

Welcome to the club :wave
If by rattles you mean the interior trim then older cars will have some and more so if the panels have been played about with. I\'d say that\'s normal on any car.
For 350bhp youd want a mappable ecu, free flowing exhaust and induction kit with a bigger intercooler. It can be achieved on the standard twins but they\'d be under a bit of stress. Going with a medium sized single turbo would be less stressful on everything. Then fueling would need to be sorted

Adam
I AM HERCULESIAN
Rex II - The Bridgeport years http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=82902.0

bmatharu

The supra has nothing on an FD when it comes to driving pleasure. Driven a few Supras and have owned my FD for nearly a year. Straight line speed is fun, but the twisties are what you really look forward to once you get used to the speed and I would only rank some of the more expensive Porsches etc in the same bracket. My (probably slightly biased) 2 cents

adaMkr

Quote from: bmatharu;794560The supra has nothing on an FD when it comes to driving pleasure. Driven a few Supras and have owned my FD for nearly a year. Straight line speed is fun, but the twisties are what you really look forward to once you get used to the speed and I would only rank some of the more expensive Porsches etc in the same bracket. My (probably slightly biased) 2 cents

I can see where your coming from fella, I\'ve had a few fun back road cars, but a well set up supra (mine had a very nice setup) would do a lot of them, you don\'t realise the speed you\'re carrying in a heavy car, taught(sp) a lesson to a 911 on the back roads around rockingham. There\'s not many cars that can do that, then have a day around a track, and run good 1/4 miles on the same setup, and be so quiet and (almost) refined!

Is there anyone around the Corby/wellingborogh/Market Harborough area who could let me in on a px ride before I take the plunge, it\'s quite a big step for me leaving the Toyota clan!

m1tch

A good thing with rotaries is the fact that you just need to add more fuel and air into the engine and you get more power, no expensive forged internals or issues with valve trains getting in the way of the airflow lol :D

adaMkr

Quote from: m1tch;794599A good thing with rotaries is the fact that you just need to add more fuel and air into the engine and you get more power, no expensive forged internals or issues with valve trains getting in the way of the airflow lol :D
Hadn\'t thought of it like that m1tch, see, that\'s why these places are so useful!

Can the turbos be replaced easily, or is a new manifold necessary?

Are there any tuners in the leicestershire/northants area recommended?

Adam

DC-TYPER

i dont get any rattles from my L reg fd :)
 
dc

shaunwil

I don\'t get any rattles, but I haven\'t got an interior :Giggle

If you get the cooling right on air and water. Swap to a PFC and have a 3in exhaust system straight through, stick a better pump and bigger secondary injectors you can easily hit the target of about 350bhp at the flywheel at about 1bar of boost. I hammered mine for over a year at 1bar without too much headaches.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

m1tch

Quote from: adaMkr;794694Hadn\'t thought of it like that m1tch, see, that\'s why these places are so useful!

Can the turbos be replaced easily, or is a new manifold necessary?

Are there any tuners in the leicestershire/northants area recommended?

Adam

There are many threads for \'going single\' main issue with the FD is the \'rats nest\' which is a large series of vacuum tubes that would have started to perish etc, usually causes issues with the secondary boost solinoid meaning you won\'t get full boost from the second turbo in the twin turbo pack.

With regards to manifolds, they are readily available for the FD, make sure its strong enough for the turbo you are wanting - a rotary can have a larger turbo than piston cars due to the extra exhaust gasses from the extra power stroke. The engine has massive volumetric efficiency ie you get much more power per litre of displacement, when my FC was standard it was heavily restricted to 200bhp, so thats 153bhp per litre, to put that in perspective a Veyron makes 125bhp per litre. You can get some crazy numbers from a small engine which is light and keeps revving - hence the buzzer as its so smooth you don\'t really notice the revs.

Stock twins are ok for about 350ish
A T04Z is around 400-500
A T88 (which is a mediumish turbo for a rotary) is about 4-600
I have a TA45 and there are quite a few T51Rs being bolted onto cars now which should see upwards of 500bhp.

On a turbo rotary I have found the following:

Up to 1 bar of boost = car boost all day, every day
1-1.2 bar = car is still fine, but WI is recomended
1.2 - 1.4 bar = Pushing the engine with regards to engine life
1.4 bar+ = exponential engine life reduction from here

Basically I am going down the route of massive TA45 on quite low boost (1.2 bar) to get some impressive numbers without stressing the engine.

I am building my FC on a budget, I have basically all the parts (plus will have a spare engine to sell and many other bits) all mods including car comes to £8k for a 600bhp (hopefully) sleeper :)

shaunwil

Another note can be what\'s the car being used for too. When my smallish frame turbo (GT3574) was on it last legs I looked at running a GT40 instead. But because the car is used for track days when I compared the two the GT3574 was the better option (running at Oulton in 2 different cars with similar porting and setup).

A bigger turbo will give you more grunt but it depends if you are willing to live with more lag or have to go with much larger ports.

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

m1tch

I am going for power at the higher RPMs, also the lag will allow me to drive off boost easier, but yeah if track racing look for some smaller turbos like a GT4088 :)