Mulling This Over In My Head... 26b

[Mir]

Start build thread. We want to know things like;
Gearbox
Diff
Cooling
Fuelling
Brakes
Parachute
Roll cage
Is your engine bay big enough
What turbos
What size PPs.? 50\'s 55\'s? (Millimetres)
Clutch

Ummmmm Grant you want to know it all.

So,
Gearbox would be T56 Megnum (Unless Pip decides otherwise).
Kazz 1.5 Super Q (for a time being-may go cobra Diff using Justin\'s invention)
I have 2 Mocal 25 Row Oil Coolers (Its more than likely that I would go Dry Sump)
I love in Tank pumps as the noise of the pumps, installed in the boot drives me crazy
Undecided about the brakes ??
Don\'t Need a Parachute (Read Below)
My engine bay can easily have 5 Rotors if I want . This is because when I was installing my 20b, we pushed the engine backwards for weight distribution. Actually my 20b sits behind the steering rack as we speak and I still have considerable gap between the steering rack and the Engine. The handling of the car is unbelievable.

Clutch have to be my favourite AST Carbon Twin (Its is ideal for street)

To Sum up. I have all those thing you would need for 4 rotor. I have all the above except Brakes, parachute, and Dry Sump.

I have Motec Ecu which can run 4 Rotor
Brand new wiring loom, which can either run 4 or 3 Rotor
I bought a brand new Diff (mentioned above) which is currently on my car
My engine bay is a work of Art (I think).
I have a custom Sub frame (installed in my fd) which can suit the needs of 3 and 4 rotor engine.
I have modified my propshaft so its ready to take 4 rotor
Gearbox is not far off as 99 percent things are planed already

I can go on and on......:cheers

The idea is to produce a daily driver 4 Rotor hence I would not use a parachute and I will not remove an interior. It will be a street car but with an extra twist :Thumbs-up

Wish me luck

Mir

[- Fezcat -]

Mir - What modifications did you make to your front subframe? I was figuring without the UIM/LIM id be able to push the engine a good way back?

What modifications have you made to the powerplant frame/gearbox mounts?

I was thinking about T-56 or T55

[Mir]

Fezcat, its a custom Subframe-newly built sub-frame. I never modified the stock subframe. We have cut the firewall and pushed the engine back over 10mm. TK0, is good as well as HKS, but, as I said i want a street legal 4 rotor and these gearboxes are not ideal for street cars like mine. I use my car for weird reasons

Cheers

[- Fezcat -]

Pulling fit birds?

So an entirely custom subframe or you modified the standard one? I thought they used the TK0600 in Z06s or am i totally wrong lol

[Mir]

Pulling fit birds?

So an entirely custom subframe or you modified the standard one?

I have to be honest, I always pull a bird when I am in my fd lolllll (Joking) But believe me, Birds love the look of Fds.............I can say alot on this topic but I guess I will be told off

Yes "an entire custom subframe" No modification to the standard one. The standard one from my car went to the bin. :rollin

Cheers
Mir

[- Fezcat -]

SHOW ME!!!! :p

What sort of torque are you aiming for with the TT I guess you\'re going for 1000bhp?

[- Fezcat -]

Or is it secret? :p

Tbh for n/a 500bhp i would have thouoght the standard trans should cope fine?

[Mir]

Yes Fezcat, I am going for 1000HP. Haven\'t given much thought to the torque related issues as its the beginning of a new world so kinda learning day by day. Nothing is secrete mate. Yes, you would be fine with the Standard Trans, 500 N.A at the fly is not really a big thing for stock parts.

Cheers
Mir

[Grant Monkhouse]

Ummmmm Grant you want to know it all.

So,
Gearbox would be T56 Megnum (Unless Pip decides otherwise).
Kazz 1.5 Super Q (for a time being-may go cobra Diff using Justin\'s invention)
I have 2 Mocal 25 Row Oil Coolers (Its more than likely that I would go Dry Sump)
I love in Tank pumps as the noise of the pumps, installed in the boot drives me crazy
Undecided about the brakes ??
Don\'t Need a Parachute (Read Below)
My engine bay can easily have 5 Rotors if I want . This is because when I was installing my 20b, we pushed the engine backwards for weight distribution. Actually my 20b sits behind the steering rack as we speak and I still have considerable gap between the steering rack and the Engine. The handling of the car is unbelievable.

Clutch have to be my favourite AST Carbon Twin (Its is ideal for street)

To Sum up. I have all those thing you would need for 4 rotor. I have all the above except Brakes, parachute, and Dry Sump.

I have Motec Ecu which can run 4 Rotor
Brand new wiring loom, which can either run 4 or 3 Rotor
I bought a brand new Diff (mentioned above) which is currently on my car
My engine bay is a work of Art (I think).
I have a custom Sub frame (installed in my fd) which can suit the needs of 3 and 4 rotor engine.
I have modified my propshaft so its ready to take 4 rotor
Gearbox is not far off as 99 percent things are planed already

I can go on and on......:cheers

The idea is to produce a daily driver 4 Rotor hence I would not use a parachute and I will not remove an interior. It will be a street car but with an extra twist :Thumbs-up

Wish me luck

Mir

Are you sure the twin carbon clutch is up to the job? I would have said a triple plate is where you need to be at, especially with carbon.

The t56 should more than handle the torque I reckon. As you won\'t be revving the engine much higher than 8,500?

You should start a thread Mir just so I don\'t clutter up this thread with questions.

I take it fully balanced and lightened rotors?

And which 4 rotor kit are you using?

[shaunwil]

If you can get your hands on some 2nd hand bits then you could start drawing up the design for the crankshaft. The biggest issues are more to be about machining the lobes and getting the centres in the shaft to do this properly.

There is a cool autodesk free app that takes photographs and converts them into 3d data models (cloud models). You need a good CMM to measure up all the key parts too.

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Cool link :

http://labs.autodesk.com/utilities/photo_scene_editor/

Shaun

[Mir]

Are you sure the twin carbon clutch is up to the job? I would have said a triple plate is where you need to be at, especially with carbon.

The t56 should more than handle the torque I reckon. As you won\'t be revving the engine much higher than 8,500?

You should start a thread Mir just so I don\'t clutter up this thread with questions.

I take it fully balanced and lightened rotors?

And which 4 rotor kit are you using?

I am hoping that Clutch would not let go, but you are right triple is the way forward for me.

T56 will work well I think, but no final decisions have been made

Yes rotors will be fully balanced and lightened

Pip will decide on the Kit

Grant I would love to start a thread, but I can\'t unless I am 100000% sure that it is happening. You know small things can cause bigger delays! But I can assure you I will start a thread-not now, may be later :Ladys-man

Cheers
Mir

[- Fezcat -]

If you can get your hands on some 2nd hand bits then you could start drawing up the design for the crankshaft. The biggest issues are more to be about machining the lobes and getting the centres in the shaft to do this properly.
 
There is a cool autodesk free app that takes photographs and converts them into 3d data models (cloud models). You need a good CMM to measure up all the key parts too.
 
Shaun

Im always on the lookout for a 20b crank to borrow, if even for a short while! that way we could start being able to put a cost on one.
 
I was speaking with my grandfather earlier about strenghths involved (he has 60 years of expert metallurgy experience as well as research into casting etc)
 
He suggested that it might be better to forge cast the shaft and then grind it down and polish it to the correct sizes.
 
I discussed the idea of machining the shaft from billet with my grandad - he seemed to think that this wouldnt be ideal or strong enough, that said he said he could get it machined for us for about £1000 - interesting.
 
Still its £1000 more than I want to spend
 
I think that RX8 rotors - lightened seem to be the best for a N/a build but ill have a ponder of that...
 
 
Anyway - My questions have mainly been answered

[shaunwil]

Another thought is to make your own billet by machining a die-set and making a drop forging. Still requires a whole lot of machining but you would get the grain structure correct to make the crank stronger. I would have thought £1000 worth of machining would be very good. Huge amount of programming and machine time.

I always wondered about making a modular design that would work from 2 rotor up to 6 rotor allowing the crank to be built up in different configurations. Would need gear cutting equipment but its all possible. You would need a bearing at every housing but on a custom motor you would want that anyway to reduce flex of the crank.

Joys of engineering

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Plus what I don\'t understand on the volvo thread is how he has heat treated his bearing surfaces ? You can vacuum harden certain steel but you still need to grind or superfinish bearing surfaces to stop them acting like a pump. He may centreless grind them at some point but it doesn\'t look like he will. The straightening he has sent it out for won\'t mean the bearing faces are ok, just the shaft is true (the heat treatment will have warped the crank).

Opps, before you ask I used to work for Volvo (originally Leyland Bus) machining stuff. They made a lot of the drive-train bits, unfortunately they made the cranks somewhere else !

Shaun