My 1989 FC Vert Turbo II

Started by ali303, August 17, 2011, 09:02:05 PM

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ali303

Quote from: TiddlesRX7;783730I think WGT do the DTSS bushes.

Ade

Thanks mate, I\'ll have a look into it. By the looks of it it doesn\'t seem like a job I\'d be too happy to tackle on my driveway!


Quote from: B.Martin;783764It looks like your vert is in very good condition paintwork wide :D

Haha thanks dude, it\'s not great though! Going to give it some abuse while the weather\'s still half decent and then sort all of the bodywork out over the winter.

In other news, the petrol bills...aren\'t great! Over the last week it\'s done 15 mpg on average...but in all honesty, I couldn\'t care less. The amount of attention this car gets everywhere it goes is unreal, which is something considering it\'s pretty much silent thanks to the OEM exhaust! I went to an Mx-5 meet in it earlier and it got a silly amount of attention, and that\'s not including pretty much everyone who drove past on the motorway (was doing 60, economy y0 :P) craning their necks to take a better look. I just love this car.

papercutout

Yup, these get some SERIOUS attention, especially when slammed! The most regular comment you\'ll get it "don\'t many of those around, in fact, I can\'t remember having ever seen one before!"

ali303

Haha sounds about right! Are you going to JAE at all? Could do with a LowLife vs. ej9.co.uk photo shoot haha. I was planning on going on the Civic stand but obviously since I\'ve got a proper car that isn\'t really possible! Not sure if there\'s a Mazda one at all?

papercutout

I\'ll ask the other Lowlife lads, although out of the 4 of us, only me and the other Ben have Jap cars! Zi\'s Z4 does look awesome though, but Jasons Audi sucks balls!

If we do go, feel free to join us Lowlife guys, of course we could just put a shout out on Lowlife FB to see if anyone wants to join. There\'re certainly plenty of people running our stickers now!

ali303

Sweet man, would be fun if we did! By the way I added you on Facebook seeing as it\'s probably easier to chat about stuff on there :burnout

ali303

Well some good news, I finally sold my other Civic so savings account aside I\'ve got around £800 to spend on getting the car a bit better prepared for a couple of upcoming drift days.

I need to get a pair of wheels just for drifting so I can keep the R33 ones for getting to work and back and whatnot without having to worry about running bald rubber and getting a telling off. Other than that I need to replace the brakes as they\'re hardly tip top, but after that I\'m a bit stumped. Could do with some new seats, I like the leather ones but they\'re not exactly supportive for me and I don\'t even fit them really. Then maybe I need to look at power upgrades...oh yeah, and definitely the DTSS eliminators!

Any suggestions welcome!

m1tch

Make sure you are running a larger radiator with electric fans on a switch BEFORE you do any drifting, else the engine will overheat and you will have to do a soft seal rebuild, also make sure your fueling is up to scratch and if you are going to be drifting it all the time, make sure you have underdrive pulleys to avoid cavitation of the water pump and OMP failure

papercutout

Or just fit an aftermarket water temp gauge and keep an eye on it like me?!

I run aftermarket boost, water and oil temp gauges.

DTSS elim bushes - I\'ve just got a set off someone on here (wooo, finally!) and it set me back £40, so just put up a \'wanted\' and have a hunt. From memory \'Mick Choi\' had some for sale. Don\'t know how reliable he is though.

Priorities:
Welded diff (or lsd if you can sort one)
DTSS elim bushes
Lowered/stiffened - message driftworks regarding their old stock HSD \'black\' coilovers that were being sold for £500
Aftermarket gauges

Low priority - would be nice, but not necessary:
Bucket seat
More lock - lock spacers or knuckle modification (http://fc3spro.com/TECH/DRIFT/DCOMPARE/dcompare.html)

Search ebay for a motordrive seat, or something else equally skinny as you\'re like me, but taller. Then you\'ll probably need a subframe to fit. Unfortunately this\'ll probably mean a bride seat subframe = expensive. Talk to L18M on here. (if you remember, I have mis-matched seats. I also had to chop and weld a bride subframe to fit my seat :( )

ali303

Yeah I think I remember you saying the stock water gauge especially is pretty rubbish? Could do with an oil temp one as well just to be safe and to look cool (three gauges y0, might mount them above the glovebox or something gangsta).

The welded diff is in at the moment. Will do the job for now but I really really want a proper LSD or something, parking in this thing is a horrible experience; everything sounds like it\'s about to break!

I\'ll hunt down some DTSS bushes but they\'re definitely something I don\'t want to fit myself after reading up on them and how much of a pain it is to do.

It\'s stupidly stiff at the moment to be honest, would the HSDS be a huge improvement on the Kei Office coilies I have already?

Haha I might need a slightly wider seat, yours almost broke my hips! Fixed bucket would be cool but I almost fancy some Bride Brix Graduations, just so the car still remains a little pimptastic haha. Girls and fixed buckets don\'t really go (from experience haha).

That was an interesting article actually, very interesting read. Basically says if you want to start drifting, don\'t get an FC haha. Ah well, looks a million times cooler than an S-body!

m1tch

#24
the FD diffs fit in the TII housings, I know that there are a few FCs running the FD torsion diffs, on the up side the FCs don\'t break and blow up like FDs lol FlikstRR drifted an FC in the BDC, I think Timmy has the shell now?

Build thead is here:

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/79548-fc3s-hayward-rotary-x-sjs-x-team-green.html

I have his engine and V mounted IC/rad setup lol :D

There was someone on here selling some drift FC bits:

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71510

Prof

Actually oil temp is a very good gauge to get...
 
If you run out of water - there may not be any water going past the thermostat so the sender won\'t register any problem for a while - and that\'s where an oil temp gauge comes in.  The oil is always circulating the engine, and is as important as the coolant system for cooling the engine.  A temp gauge monitoring oil temp will show up problems of over heating quicker than an aftermarket water gauge.
 
The stock water gauge is basically just measuring the temperature of the block - which is why it\'s so unreactive !
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


m1tch

Yeah I have an oil temp gauge, its much more accurate than a water temp gauge as the oil is directly heated by the engine, wheras the water is indirectly heated, plus if you have an uprated radiator you are going to have 6-7 litres of water to heat up before the \'temperature\' increases, the engine would have overheated waaaay before it registers on the gauge, infact if the stock gauge rises above about half the engine has already overheated.

ali303

Quote from: m1tch;785101the FD diffs fit in the TII housings, I know that there are a few FCs running the FD torsion diffs, on the up side the FCs don\'t break and blow up like FDs lol FlikstRR drifted an FC in the BDC, I think Timmy has the shell now?

Build thead is here:

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/79548-fc3s-hayward-rotary-x-sjs-x-team-green.html

I have his engine and V mounted IC/rad setup lol :D

There was someone on here selling some drift FC bits:

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71510

Now that\'s the sort of thread I need to read, thanks! Time to spend all night reading through it haha.

Quote from: Prof;785120Actually oil temp is a very good gauge to get...
 
If you run out of water - there may not be any water going past the thermostat so the sender won\'t register any problem for a while - and that\'s where an oil temp gauge comes in.  The oil is always circulating the engine, and is as important as the coolant system for cooling the engine.  A temp gauge monitoring oil temp will show up problems of over heating quicker than an aftermarket water gauge.
 
The stock water gauge is basically just measuring the temperature of the block - which is why it\'s so unreactive !

Ahhh makes a lot of sense, I\'ll definitely be sorting out some more gauges then!

papercutout

Yeah it is. Personally I\'m going to relocate my water gauge to the clocks, like my boost gauge at some point. Boost gauge 1 side, water temp the other - means I can keep an eye on it, as it\'s pretty critical. Or I\'ll mount it by the little thingy in the middle of the dash, and when I get a wideband, mount the AFR gauge on the side of the clocks.

That\'s 2 boxes ticked already, diff and coilies. The HSD\'s should be a little softer (or at least, much more adjustable - adjustable damping, ride height and spring preload), but it\'s a big expenditure. I forgot you had coilovers already - I\'ve been chatting to a different guy on email about cutting springs and got confused!

Yeah, slightly wider than mine, and try to get something with side mounts or that\'ll fit a Bride seat rail, unlike mine. Bride\'s are SO expensive though!

Then go drifting! Or go drifting inbetween mods too :p

m1tch

With regards to the AFR gauge, its probably not much use whilst drifting, it should be something that is used whilst mapping, I don\'t think its something you are going to be able to check whilst going sideways lol

Also with regards to cooling, I know Phil had electric fans on both the radiator AND intercooler as when going sideways there isn\'t any proper airflow going through the front, the fans were attached to a switch so that they were running 100% of the time during a run.