My 1st Gen RX-7

Ian65 · March 18, 2011, 08:37:05 PM

yeah, still got the brake master cylinder.

David Nock (RIP) · March 19, 2011, 01:14:47 PM

Fuel Pump should be a smooth \'purrry whistley\' sort of noise.

A blocked/clogged fuel filter tends to show itself most when running at full power on the motorway, when fuel can\'t get through quick enough.

automatic18 · March 19, 2011, 07:54:56 PM

Smooth and purring it ain\'t, it sounds like a woodpecker with a blunt nose! I whipped the inlet pipe to the carb off and turned the ignition on, got a decent flow out of the pipe. When the engine manages to fire it runs on a really low idle for less than 10 secs then splutters out. The only thing that\'s changed from when it was last running fine is that it\'s been stood for 3 months. Plenty of fuel in the tank, wonder if its worth draining and refilling. Have cleaned out the dizzy cap and rotor and had the HT leads off and given a good spray with WD40, also sprayed and worked all the links on the throttle/carb.. not that I know much about carbs.

Also eventually got the bumper off:

Actually it\'s not nearly as bad as I\'d dreaded. I think the bumper itself will be OK. The bracket on the nearside is actually OK as well, I didn\'t realise the bumper just slides onto it. I\'ll need to get a bag full of those small clips, hope to get some generic ones from a motor factors.

Things are looking better!

myatt1972 · March 19, 2011, 08:03:41 PM

Quote from: David Nock;750014A blocked/clogged fuel filter tends to show itself most when running at full power

Ahh, your secret is out, never past 4k my ar*e!

captainbizzaro · March 19, 2011, 08:32:49 PM

Redline a day etc etc!

Ian65 · March 19, 2011, 08:47:21 PM

Quote from: captainbizzaro;750104Redline a day...

keeps the carbon away!!

get those buzzers going!

David Nock (RIP) · March 20, 2011, 04:23:06 PM

I don\'t think you want to redline in 5th on the motorway guys! You\'d be up to about 250mph?

I know you\'re joshing but I\'m SOOO tired today. S\'either something terminal or that 3 pints and couple of red vinos last night.

All together say \'Ahhh\',.

David Nock (RIP) · March 20, 2011, 04:57:45 PM

This is from the manual:-

To test your fuel pump, disconnect the larger fuel delivery pipe and the carburetor. (smaller one is return to tank on a loop system). With the pipe emptying (CAREFULLY) into a container it should deliver fuel at a rate of 1.1 litres a minute. Also with this pipe plugged into a pressure guage it should deliver about 4 bar.

Also above the fuel pump, attached in the rear wheel arch of the body, is a check valve in the return line, though I\'ve never known these to fail.

Possibles are the pump itself, the filter, which you\'re going to change, clogged lines or stuck needle valve (gummed up??) in the carb.

Also the choke mechanism? Plugs all OK? Vacuum system pipes on ignition?

Coils/Ignitors? What were your symptoms Ian, last year?

automatic18 · March 25, 2011, 01:30:49 PM

OK first things first, its good to be in the club

The car roared back into life yesterday! I\'m still not sure it was actually the fuel pump, it may just have been because it was sitting for 3 months. But the pump was definitely not right so I have changed the pump and filter. Also the plugs were well past their best so I\'ve changed them too.
From this:

To this:

The new pump and filter are working fine, the only issue is as the mounting is different, there is a lot of vibration noise being transmitted through the car so I will hve to make up a rubber mounting.

I have sorted out the bumper for now:

Also reconditioned front calipers and brake hoses arrived today so I\'ll be out in the sunshine getting busy.. have already fitted front disks but the calipers were seized. Cant wait to get back on the road... and hit the redline

A7RXY · March 25, 2011, 02:17:55 PM

Hi AM18
When you changed your front discs did you reuse your wheel bearings or use new ones ?

Dibs

automatic18 · March 25, 2011, 07:19:02 PM

I know its not the best but since I\'m desperate to use the car I put the used ones back in... after taking great care to remove them...

After spinning the discs they seem fine, no noise or bad feel to them. I\'ll re check them after I test drive it.

Been going a bit mad on ebay, snapped up those remanf. calipers:

Had to cut off the old metal brake pipes in the engine bay so hopefully I will get those made up tomorrow.

A7RXY · March 25, 2011, 08:31:14 PM

looking good, I like the calipers, its just I have new discs and have been trying to get new bearings to change them booth at the same time.

automatic18 · March 26, 2011, 09:17:35 PM

drove about 10 miles today and nothing\'s fallen off.. yet

A small list of problems to sort-

Cigarette lighter - the light behind it is working, but the lighter itself won;t heat up

Gearstick - I think maybe a spring is broken in the neutral position, from 4th-rev it springs back to centre but not from 4th-1st direction

Brakes - when brakes are applied there is a pulsing feeling, I will see if the discs/pads bed in any more

nearly there!

automatic18 · May 25, 2011, 02:00:54 PM

4000 miles later...

. Drove from Newcastle - Southampton - Lands End - Southampton - Durham - Glasgow - Skye - Stornoway - Inverness - Aberdeen - Edinburgh - Newcastle. As far as I\'m concerned I\'ve got my moneys worth out of the car already!

I had bought the new discs off eBay, so not really a surprise to find one of them was either warped or had been a casting fault causing the pulsing in the brake pedal... everything else worked ok though, fitted calipers, pads, hoses, pipes..

A very annoying encounter with a tree stump, meaning that the rear valance section as you can see is almost totally ripped through where it had been rusty (on both sides). Am I right it is part of the body and not a separate panel? What are the chances of economically repairing this...?

And after all those miles, these are the front tyres. Totally worn out on both the inner edges. Caused by incorrect wheel alignment?

So I will be working away again soon and the MOT will have run out by the time I get back... wondering whether to keep the car. The mechanical stuff is no big deal to replace, but the bodywork damage is what I hate..

Paul.

Ian65 · May 25, 2011, 03:29:43 PM

Quote from: automatic18;7647954000 miles later... . Drove from Newcastle - Southampton - Lands End - Southampton - Durham - Glasgow - Skye - Stornoway - Inverness - Aberdeen - Edinburgh - Newcastle. As far as I\'m concerned I\'ve got my moneys worth out of the car already!

I had bought the new discs off eBay, so not really a surprise to find one of them was either warped or had been a casting fault causing the pulsing in the brake pedal... everything else worked ok though, fitted calipers, pads, hoses, pipes..

A very annoying encounter with a tree stump, meaning that the rear valance section as you can see is almost totally ripped through where it had been rusty (on both sides). Am I right it is part of the body and not a separate panel? What are the chances of economically repairing this...?

Paul,
glad to see the cars going well and you\'re out there enjoying it.
The rear valance is available new from Mazda for about 40 quid... an easy repair...

Quote from: CHC;730357Rear Valance panel now ordered and paid for = Â£41. I anticipate delivery/receipt next week from Europe

Ordered as:-
D Code No. 70 791A
Description Panel Skirt. Rear
Part No. FA01-70-791

:Thumbs-up:)

See Cliffs thread on his restoration for how it looks and fits...

http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67460&page=8

And after all those miles, these are the front tyres. Totally worn out on both the inner edges. Caused by incorrect wheel alignment?

First and cheapest check is to get the tracking checked at a tyre centre... if that doesn\'t cure it, have it lazer aligned.

Paul.[/QUOTE]