Turbine housing, divided or single?

Started by Grant Monkhouse, February 20, 2011, 04:29:09 PM

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Grant Monkhouse

#15
February 21, 2011, 04:06:55 PM
I appreciate the advice which rice brings to this forums, even though he can be very abrupt in the way he says things, but you can never tell by reading text the way someone has meant it to come across, I beleive in what rice has a number of times on turbo threads that a turbo should be used for what it was designed for, and that is to produce boost and lots of it.

You just have to make sure your doing all the other things right when applying big boost or pop goes the engine.

I don\'t take everything that rice says as gospel, I take what he says and apply it to what I think I know, but at the end of the day, he builds rotaries, I build engines, but there are others that have a different approach than Rice but not everyone that is out there is as willing to share their expertise openl, mainly due to the fact that in this country when someone shares their advice they get slagged off by another engine builder/tuner.

Grant Monkhouse

#16
February 21, 2011, 04:07:32 PM
I went a bit off ata tangent there but you get the idea.

DR SCHNITZEL

#17
February 21, 2011, 05:52:08 PM
Seeing as water does not compress well (at all) and the amount you would have to flow at 1.5 to 2.0 bar. I dont see how this would be relaible. coupled with stock internals, .... fuel, your asking for trouble id say.
 
Wouldnt the vendors/tuners (bless em) love it if we all added WI,  had remaps and raised boost to 1.5 to 2.5 plus in our street cars. lmao. they would certainly be inundated with rebuilds and remap service requests. Or maybe not. maybe we should all do that... Im ok as i have a load of engine parts in the garage to experiment with and i can build myself an engine for the cost of the gas/water and apex seals. Im learning all the time and have saved aLOT of cash making my own engines and doing my mapping myself.
 
Seriously though i have removed my large street port engine from my car (as i didnt like the power band). I am building a near stock port engine and going from 1.2 bar to no more than 1.5 with water injection (by advice from Rice). I just need some advice on what WI kit to go for and the kind of timing base map i will need.
 
90% track car only. 81 hotside undivided (at 1.5 bar im not sure the divsion thing will matter too much0

DR SCHNITZEL

#18
February 21, 2011, 06:01:35 PM
all my engines have blown up at.  1 bar + (boost in apex seals out) my large port was running 1.2 well when i removed (500fwhp) it but the power band was too narrow and high up the revs with a 1.3 hotsideee!
 
If my new engine blows with good afrs and conserative timing with the correct flow of water (egts) at 1.5 bar then...............Ill try again. also ill need 3 bar map sensor and good spark

DR SCHNITZEL

#19
February 21, 2011, 06:03:30 PM
btw i dont care about reliability anymore \'cos im ded \'ard

Grant Monkhouse

#20
February 21, 2011, 07:05:23 PM
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;744455btw i dont care about reliability anymore \'cos im ded \'ard

I\'m not sure what being ard has anything to do with anything. Lol.

From what rice previously said, WI will increase life of the rotary

DR SCHNITZEL

#21
February 21, 2011, 07:11:16 PM
YEah only joking. Lol. just I have enough bits for it not to matter if it blows. Water is mysterious.

Grant Monkhouse

#22
February 21, 2011, 07:14:17 PM
I\'m talking of running more boost on a car that is primarily a drag car, so 1/4 of a mike at a time, but will/can be driven on the streets.

Grant Monkhouse

#23
February 21, 2011, 07:18:11 PM
I think the best thing to remember when using water is that your not burning water, it is water vapour, atomised water. So in essence is it more like a gas but just needs good ignition to make it burn with the fuel?

DR SCHNITZEL

#24
February 21, 2011, 07:28:56 PM
Only joking lol. Water is mysterious. It will reduce chamber temps. Weaken spark. flame front will travel faster in a cooler chamber .timing advanced!  So retard map. BUt water will increase compression ratio by taking physical space in the chamber. I wish I understood it more.

Grant Monkhouse

#25
February 21, 2011, 07:34:37 PM
Quote from: DR SCHNITZEL;744477Only joking lol. Water is mysterious. It will reduce chamber temps. Weaken spark. flame front will travel faster in a cooler chamber .timing advanced!  So retard map. BUt water will increase compression ratio by taking physical space in the chamber. I wish I understood it more.

Me too, I have read a few things from the past where they used it to increase aeroplane engine hp, and they were injecting so much water that water was leaking out of every orifice but the engine was still turning over and working.

PGiljevic

#26
February 21, 2011, 07:58:12 PM
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;744484Me too, I have read a few things from the past where they used it to increase aeroplane engine hp, and they were injecting so much water that water was leaking out of every orifice but the engine was still turning over and working.

This is a complete and utter rubbish :Hammer

I inject as much water as the WW2 aero planes did and I have no water leaking out of every orifice :chat

It is an easy science, people just need to get into it, there is a whole forum dedicated to it with some of the smartest minds in this field contributing and posting about it //www.aquamist.com
"Can\'t be defeated!, don\'t know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we\'ll fight the world!, we can\'t be beaten!!!"

PGiljevic

#27
February 21, 2011, 08:05:36 PM
Quote from: suba;744434I dont want to drag this off topic for the original poster, but I am very interested in why UK rotaries dont ever seem to run that much boost.  On a GT30 or bigger turbo I can\'t imagine that intake temps are going to be much of a factor, as the turbo will still be efficient at 2 bar +, and when using a decent front mount I would have thought intake temps would be the same anyway.

I can see how there would be more heat generated by the turbo(s) themselves - but I doubt much of this would be transferred to the housings and rotors.  I would have thought the reasons would be more related to how much the rotor tips and seals can reliably take....

You of all countries should be running much more boost than we do as your weather is so sh7thouse (nice for turbo\'s).

The turbo is a simple device, Water Injection is even simpler, combine the two and you will have power and reliability (amazing I know! :)) I have lost count of how many people have followed what I said then gagged over the advice for years after, spawning their own little cults of followers and in some cases quasi businesses using this "amazing technology".

It has all been done before, by much smarter people, all I am doing and have done for so many years is apply it to our heaps of sh7t and make a simple formula for people to follow, which takes ALL of the guess work and experimentation out of it.......... you boys have it all to easy.
"Can\'t be defeated!, don\'t know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we\'ll fight the world!, we can\'t be beaten!!!"

PGiljevic

#28
February 21, 2011, 08:17:53 PM
Do not mean to post whore :o This is the link to Aquamist site LOL > http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1590&page=14
"Can\'t be defeated!, don\'t know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we\'ll fight the world!, we can\'t be beaten!!!"

DR SCHNITZEL

#29
February 21, 2011, 09:46:24 PM
so rice how much money do we need to give you. for the kit the map and the knowledge?
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