installed twins now just grind grind grind

Started by monterx7, February 14, 2011, 02:21:57 PM

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monterx7

i installed a twin plate os giken clutch/flywheel and now my gearbox will not go in gear with the motor running.  with motor turned off it will go into all the gears, issue is just with motor running.  ive been dealing with this for some time now, and honestly have no idea whats wrong.  the following are things ive done or checked during the last few weeks(yes its been weeks:Hammer, work sucks:Laugh):
 
- replaced release bearing and pilot bearing
- bled master/slave cylinders
- adjusted clutch pedal
- triple checked clutch plates arrangment
- spacer betw slave cylinder and clutch folk for more throw...no luck
 
from what i can remember, this is everything ive done so far and still have the same issue.  what am i missing
 
 
any help will be much appreciated
thanks
88 gxlt US spec
86 egi UK spec

dthebuk

no idea what it may be. you could always look through the check plate whilst someone operates the clutch to see what happens?
no too clued up on twin plates


\'91 FC TII - Drifter... Under construction :D
:burnout

Archbish

has the clutch definitely, definitely been put in the right way round?  Sounds stupid, but seen it done, and similar symptoms...
Everyone wants to be like ArchBish,
Cos the Bish is never glum.
Its hard to be unhappy
when the sun shines out your bum

Prof

Could also be pilot bearing - that happened to me - and the symptoms are just as you describe :(
 
If it is that, then the clutch has to come off again to get at the pilot bearing, plus they\'ll need a puller to get it out. The part itself is fairly cheap - but it\'s a pain to find out after the clutch swap :( :(
 
Did your twin plate clutch kit need a spacer or special clutch fork - as some of the twin units are right on the limit on the clutch pedal with the stock fork ?
 
Just noted that you\'ve replaced pilot and also have a spacer - doh - obviously not these then...
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Prof

Just had a thought - does it need a standard release bearing - or a specific one?
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


BlitzBoy

probably wrong release bearing, ring OS Giken in this country for advice, RB Motorsport they can check the applications manual
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

Prof

Typically - it\'s listed as optional for FC3S, and appears to be a stronger bearing than stock, and the fork is also optional:
 
http://www.osgiken.net/products/racingmultiplate.html
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Prof

"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


BlitzBoy

So if you can use the stock release bearing this would then point to either the Master or Slave cylinder being faulty , eg leaking past the primary seal in the piston, therefore the Slave cylinder Rod not having enough force to activate the fork to push against the pressure plate springs
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

steve garbutt

Pump the clutch pedal fast to see if you can engage a gear, if you can then its more than likely the clutch slave cylinder.
Also peal the rubber back on the slave, if you find fluid then it more than likely needs replacing.
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy.
Steve@mazdarotaryclub.com


pdtaylor18

make sure the forks are not bent as this has been the cause of many a TII issue with gear selection.  try adjusting the rod under the dash at the foot pedal and make sure that its setup correctly, it may well need just that little bit more in length (don\'t we all Lol) but if the pedal looks like its fairly inline with the brake then maybe not that but Mazda manual does have dimensions from floor to pedal for the clutch.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

monterx7

thanks for all the help everyone.


im using a stocker release bearing currently.  as we found out, alot of rx7club claim this clutch and the twins work good together.  

i pulled the gearbox again on sat to make sure the pilot bearing was still good to go, and is.  clutch fork seems to be not damaged.  

was also thinking of changing the slave cylinder.  will order one tonight.  clive at mazdarotaryparts probably the best to get this?


thanks
88 gxlt US spec
86 egi UK spec

TiddlesRX7

Either that or ebay usa. I found that I could get both master and slave cylinder from there delivered for not much more than just the slave over here. Plus its always worth changing both if one is causing problems. They are 20yrs old or so now.
I don\'t need to upgrade my stock turbo to beat your ass!

Get your finger out, get it on the road and start driving it then!!! (B.Martin 25/2/12)

monterx7

i normally order from mazdatrix but trying to get this thing running again for sunday.  i changed both before, so they are about 8 yrs old...but old enough to fail
88 gxlt US spec
86 egi UK spec

1990_fc3s_t2

If you changed both before i would think they should be good even after 8 years, as suggested id pull back the rubber boots and see if any fluids leaking out also the colour of the fluid in the reservoir darker usually means perished seals.